Tips for Small Shops?

[Sri Ram]

I'm finally making my garage into a usable space. Oo. Got the walls and ceiling in R11 and an R11 door with about 83 inches of clearance when it's up. Got power, too. The space is only 12x21. 5 feet outside, though. I can get my truck in there, but there's not a lot of room after that for tools, etc. What have folks done to save space in their size-challenged shops?



Also, I intend to paint and epoxy the floor. Any tips on that appreciated, too!

 

[moparguy]

Congrats on the progress. If I were working with your building, I'd go to the far end, cut the studs out at 6' or 7' high, frame around the opening, then extend the back of the building at least 6'.



Come off the building with a shed roof and use the new space for a work bench, compressor, and tool box area. Also add all the peg board you can hang.



Looks like you're in town so zoning and property lines may not make this a doable suggestion. If that's the case, then peg board, set the compressor outside with a doghouse type cover and try to utilize some overhead storage on the end of the shop.



Good luck, RR

 

[Grizzly]

If you can't expand out the back, maybe you can expand to one side or the other. Maybe you can expand 5' to both sides with a shed roof, kind of like, "Little House on the Prairie", roof. I'm sure you will figure out a way to expand. 12' x 21. 5' is not very usable.

 

[GHarman]

Leave the vehicles outside and set up the shop the way you want it. Work on vehicles outside or under a temporary shelter? GregH

 

[sdstriper]

That is a tight space. Mine is just a little bigger but I have accomplished many projects in there, 12 x 24 outside dimension. I have a loft built at the far end, approximately 6 feet in from the end, I can get the vehicles inside and get the hoods up under it still. The loft is full width and 4' deep, I rotate winter/summer items and misc. project stuff. On the wall that has no walk in door I have every garden tool known to man and then some hanging strategically for optimal space use. The kids bikes, trikes etc hang from the ceiling. At the front of the shop there is a shelf that is even with the loft floor horseshoeing around the front of the shop, five gallon bucket sized deep, buckets etc fit under the trusses. Oil drain pans, car ramps, small parts washer, welder etc. And all of my power tool plastic cases. Under shelf CD player. I build the bench high so I don't have to hunch over to tinker on my tinkerings, and to be able to maximize under bench use. Shop compressor, chest of drawers, wheeled shop project cart etc. My bench is 6' wide 20 inches deep and 4' off the ground. Bench vice mounted on the corner, bench top drill press. I prefer my tools hanging orderly in full sight on the wall as opposed to tool chest. Gargage is fully insulated, ceiling fan, heat, A/C, gable end vent fan and full garage door screen. Walk in door soon to be up-graded, it will open out, strategically placed for the best in/out from the wifes car, 2000 Buick Century. I use those car dollies to shuffle my 89' 1st Gen when in there. The garage door will just close behind the bumper and I have to practically crawl over the truck to get to the front bench area, but there is room to manuever up there after all that. I do have room for the mower in season, snow blower in season, but not both at the same time with room to park the car nightly. I utilize a storage unit for offseason stuff etc. You can make it work, thinking is required.

 

[sdstriper]

I thought I would add that the walls are sheeted with plywood, you can hang pretty much anything anywhere that way.

 

[Nate]

Yup, that's what I do. My garage is 12'x22' inside dimensions. Basically the same exact size as that one. The door is only 7x6. 5 though, so nothing I own will fit in that (truck and Jeep barely fit under a 7 foot door.

I have a 14x26 foot concrete pad outside that I do my work at. It sucks in the summer a bit cause it gets hot (over 100*) but I just get up early and work till it's hot. In the winter, I just put the burn barrel out by the truck. It only gets down to maybe 10* at the worst, so it's not bad at all.

I might pickup a covered shelter. Northern Hydraulics has one for $90.

Leave the vehicles outside and set up the shop the way you want it. Work on vehicles outside or under a temporary shelter? GregH

 

[Grizzly]

Leave the vehicles outside and set up the shop the way you want it. Work on vehicles outside or under a temporary shelter? GregH

I wouldn't want to work on a truck outside in Olympia Washington. It rains every day.

 

[GHarman]

I dont like to work on my truck in the rain either! A temporary shelter would be cheaper than adding on and can be moved when the sun comes out or left for shade and it will probably not stir up the Code enforcement officials. GregH

 

[sdstriper]

Is that roof trusses or rafters?

 

[Sri Ram]

Thanks for the replies. The roof is rafters. I like the bump out the back idea. That would make room for a bench and tool storage, etc. I don't think the city would even notice a little addition like that since I already have a concrete pad on the back side and a pole-type shed built there. Planning on demolishing that this summer for a new chicken coop. The chickens are going to love the compressor!



Yes, it rains a lot and often here. Working outside is doable if you don't mind being wet and cold (hence the shop). I don't think I will do more than routine maintainance on the truck inside this shop. I'll save the big projects for summer. There's enough room for a smaller vehicle, though, like my Mercedes. I will probably do a carport outside the door for more room.



I was planning on pegboard and a rollaway for tool storage. I have a loft on the collar-ties but it's only accessible by ladder.



What about painting/sealing the floor? Any thoughts on that?

 

[Grizzly]

I'd seal it, especially if you work in it and spill oil on the floor as we all do.

 

[Sri Ram]

Oh, I'm definitely gonna seal it. I'm just wondering if anyone has any preference on products, technique, color, etc.

 

[sdstriper]

The loft I built is more of a deck I guess, 2x6 on each wall with 2x6's accross. Car port sounds like a good idea too. Consider car dollies no matter what vehicle you have, it is nice to move the vehicle side to side etc to maximize your working space.



As far as the floor goes, sounds like you want a "coating", epoxy etc. I wouldn't use a "sealer". Get what you pay for is how floor coatings go, same as most things but remember, if you go cheap on a floor coating and it fails (peals etc) it is a PITA to remove and replace. Search the forums on floor coatings, there a several good posts on them, I have made a few comments on it in the past.

 

[PToombs]

Light colors are better, they reflect more light. Especially if you're working under something!

 

[LesStallings]

Oh, I'm definitely gonna seal it. I'm just wondering if anyone has any preference on products, technique, color, etc.

I've used the Rustoleum garage floor product from Home Depot and it is pretty good for the price. Everything depends on the preparation. In my new shop I used the UcoatIt system. It is truly an industrial coating and is by far superior. It is by far, much more expensive...



In both products, I used the different color sprinkles to break up the monotone color. It also visually hides any imperfections in the floor. It does make it a little harder to find a small nut that is dropped, but not that big of a deal.



If you go with the Rustoleum, but sure to get the top coat sealer.

 

[rotohead]

I had my garage floor epoxy coated when I had my house built (five yrs ago) and it's one of the best things I did to the garage (R-23 insulated too). Paint won't last as long but epoxy is more expensive. The key to epoxy is how you choose to prep the concrete surface. There are two choices 1) chemical eteching and 2) bead blasting. I had them bead blast it using a unit much like a 'rug doctor' thing that uses a small media that works pretty well. Only thing I noticed compared to the chemical way is the bead blast unit is harder to get into tight quarters or if you have some built-in unit preventing you from getting full wall-to-wall coverage. With epoxy the place you are going to have to make sure bonds completely is around the edges. VERY IMPORTANT!
As for actually using the floor, watch out for two fluids that will stain/destory either paint or epoxy is 1) brake fluid or 2) power steering fluid. Most all other fluids you can let spill on the floor and just wipe up later. Don't do that with either brake or power steering fluid.
Also, I had sand in the epoxy when it was applied for traction when wet. I don't know how to tell you how much to include. Over time the epoxy will lose it's shine and that will help with the traction too but you'll want some sand in the original application.
Like I stated earlier, it's the best thing... you'll love when you have to slide under your truck on your back. Easy to keep clean and well worth the money IMO.
PM me if you have anymore questions.
Chuck

 

[sdstriper]

Shotblasting with steel shot is how we did it. The latest greatest equipment will mill/grind a thin layer open almost all the way to the wall or obstruction. Prep Master I believe is the brand name. Getting the concrete "open" to a clean surface for the coating to adhere to is an absolute must.

 

[rbattelle]

Oh, I'm definitely gonna seal it. I'm just wondering if anyone has any preference on products, technique, color, etc.

I have no experience with sealers, but have been thinking about what I'd like in a concrete sealer. Polymax looks interesting. Anyone have experience with it?



Ryan

 

[Pavemen]

that is such a tiny space. good luck doing anything while being comfortable and having enough room for parts/tools.

i have 1/2 a 2-car garage that I get to use as shop space. I put anything I can on wheels/casters. My 20-ton shop press, welding cart, tool cart, grinding/welding table, spare tires stacked on a furniture dolly, compressor on wheels, etc.

Anything that can be stacked is on racks and as tall as possible. Smart use of closed/sealed bins for storing smaller parts keeps things clean.

Retractable drop lights, air hose on reels, retractable extension cords, and similar space saving items are important.

Also, recess any lighting you can into the ceiling to save overhead space. I have 3 rows of two 8' dual fluorescents between the rafters in my garage. They are bright and work great and I have full overhead space.

Also, consider barn style or industrial type rollup doors rather than a standard roll up. You'll save the space overhead that the standard garage door takes up.