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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Cheapest performance gain for towing

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Breather blow by

Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) High RPM and timing

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I would like about another 50HP to improve towing when trying to cross Rockies on hot days. Currently I'm down to 25-30 MPH and running hotter than I like by the time I crest at the Eisenhower tunnel on I-70, about 10,000 ft or 5,000 ft higher than Denver.

I don't quite understand difference between Smarty (timing?) and a performance chip (more fuel?). Do you need both devices?

I would like to hold cost of performance gain to below $450 if possible. Am I dreaming. I'm tired of starting my trips over the Rockies at 0300 hours to catch colder air. Truck pulls just fine east of the Rockies.



Please see my signature for current truck configuration. Any suggestions on what to buy?

Regards, George
 
You could easily put a set of 275 RV injectors in for that much. Even less if you are willing to do the work yourself.
 
What's your combined weight? You can add small injectors and a box, but the HY35 is going to run out of gas real quick. What is the percent grade on that section of I70. Is your pacbrake turbo mounted?



I went to a PDR35 because of my Banks Brake. I tow at 18 to 19K combine and have lots of power. Have not yet towed with the PDR35 to determine if I can use more power without high EGTs.



I ran the HY35 at around 27lbs of boost with a jhook and springs. You need a box like an Edge EZ to do boost fooling.



I would suggest some RV275's, an used EZ, and start saving for a turbo. Try to find an used HX35, PDR will turn it into a PDR35 for a reasonable cost.



SNOKING
 
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For low cost of purchase I'd say go with a used Edge EZ. You have an HY 35 so you will also need a J hook or turnbuckle to raise your boost to around 30 or so.
 
"when u say hot do u mean egt or radiator?"""

Kind of both. Haven't run over Rockies since I installed a 4 inch exhaust. Engine was definetly hot and almost in red zone, transmission around 220 and egt always wanted to exceed 1300 so I kept feathering back on the gas to hold 1250. Egt is a problem, goes over 1300 real easy. Boost is about 18. 5 psi, dowm slightly since new. Pulling 20,000 lbs combined.
 
Combined weight is 20,000 lbs. Grade varies from 6-8% but it's long pull, over 30 miles from Denver to top. Pacbrake is turbo mounted but I had problem before I installed Pac-Brake but have noticed EGT rises quicker since I installed the Pac-Brake.
 
I have a lighter trailer than yours, but when I wanted what you are looking for, I bought the Edge Comp. With that alone I gained close to 100 HP, had absolutely NO EGT or coolant temp issues - and ALL the power I needed for the worse Sierra grades on Hwy 80 or 50.



I added more stuff since - but the Comp alone gave me all I could sensibly use for RV towing in the hills - it was a perfect matchup for available fuel and turbo boost - NEVER had to worry about overheating ANYTHING - just sat back and watched the similarly loaded Fords and GM stuff disappear in my rearview mirror! ;) :D
 
Combined weight is 20,000 lbs. Grade varies from 6-8% but it's long pull, over 30 miles from Denver to top. Pacbrake is turbo mounted but I had problem before I installed Pac-Brake but have noticed EGT rises quicker since I installed the Pac-Brake.



I would get a j hook & edge EZ used [Around $200]. You need to get some more boost to cool your temps... . the HX35 would be great. Your Pac brake may need adjusted if you are running hotter since the install. It may be hanging up or not fully releasing & holding in heat.
 
If the problem seems to be getting worse over time, check your radiator and see if the ever famous oil vapor from the breather bottle has plugged it up, also check the front of the radiator is plugged with dirt. The restricted airflow can cause heat.



I run my truck to 1400 degrees before I back down, and if the climb is steep, both temps will come up.



If you don't use the Pac-Brake while driving around town, it may have carbon build up & not opening all of the way.
 
If the problem seems to be getting worse over time, check your radiator and see if the ever famous oil vapor from the breather bottle has plugged it up, also check the front of the radiator is plugged with dirt. The restricted airflow can cause heat.



This right here is the best reply I have seen. My truck had 70k on it last trip thru flagstaff and I couldn't make it up the small grade there with 7k behind me without hitting the red zone. I was baffled. Searched here and bingo. That's what it was. I bought a gallon of coil cleaner designed for cleaning A/C coils in homes and soaked it per the directions and then power washed it. It looked like I degreased a 40 year old Ford truck in my driveway. :eek:
 
So you are only one K more than I was on my trip thru the SW last fall. I think the guys are onto something regarding your RAD being plugged up with oil and dirty, as your ATS transmission stuff should make it run cool on the road. Also junk the bottle and extend the hose down to the sway bar.



Find some RV275's and an a used EZ, I do not think you will want to tap the pump with a Comp with the HY turbo. I will post a picture of the Jhook that I made for my HY, have to get in the attic today anyway, and it is up there in the PDR box waiting for someone that needs a low mile HY.



I run Jammer 1's and Comp untapped and I am happy with the towing power, I could not use it all, so I bought a PDR35, which I have not towed with yet. This fall we are coming down thru the West to the Balloon Fest in NM, around out to the coast and back up. Should be a good test. Lots of passes to climb.



SNOKING
 
Don't want to Hijack but is the HX any better than the HY, I have the same setup but am standard and am thinking of a used EZ and 275's, will the turbo on the standards do any better or worse.
 
the hy has a 9 cm exhaust housing (restrictive) the HX has a 12 cm 33% larger and will build up to 36psi , with tc locked the trans doesnt matter. maybe less heat w/out cooler in front of rad?
 
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