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Botched SBC install and new Zoom ZVT Intall ; findings and review

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What About This Gauge?

Returning Edge EZ to stock without removing

The purpose of this post is two fold:

1. To give you another reason to be extremely selective of who installs your clutch.

2. To give you an opinion of a lesser known performance clutch.





So with the Juice/Attitude and Mach 3's, I could slip the OFE at will. I talked to Peter and about it and we both agreed that those mods shouldn't be causing the clutch to slip. Peter offered to send me a replacement for a very reasonable fee. I decided to pull the injectors and wait a little while to see how the clutch acted. Well, with the injectors out, the clutch did pretty well. There was still some shuddering during 2nd gear engagement from a stop (6spd), but other than that, it ran out pretty good. During the same time, I had also been talking to my buddy Gary Croyle at Perfection Clutch. I met him a couple years ago at a local TDR function that I had organized. We keep in touch and catch up every few weeks or so. I had been talking to him about the problem and it kind of worked itself into a "bring it up here and lets take a look". It was twofold for them as they didn't have a part number specific to my application (I have a 99 with a factory NV-5600 and a 1-1/4" input shaft), and they needed a truck for an upcoming article in a trade magazine.



So Tuesday afternoon, I left Nashville headed east to South Carolina. We got the truck on the rack in their lab on Wednsday morning. I was astounded to see some of the things we found. Here comes the big part of "purpose #1". The South Bend Clutch install was botched. BADLY. I would imagine a great majority of issues that Peter may have are due to things that we found, not any fault of the South Bend Product. The first observation was that one of the two dowel sleeves was missing from the bellhousing. Next we noticed that there was some wear on the nose of the input shaft. Not bad, but it was worn. I'll get to why here in a second. Next we noticed that the "nubs" on the release fork were worn flat. This is the area where the release fork contacts the bottom of the throwout bearing. This caused the throwout bearing not be be able to pivot during a release/engagement and putting pressure on the bearing retainer and the bearing itself. Next, off came the clutch cover (attached with the wrong bolts - they were not shoulder bolts), and we noticed that the flywheel was re-drilled to accept the cover... 5speed cover and 6speed flywheel if I remember correctly (not neccessarily a bad thing). Oddly, the pressure plate, friction material, and flywheel surface looked pretty good. No visual hotspots. The springs on the torsion damper however were a different story. Loose, and severely worn. An impending failure for sure. But the mack daddy of the problems was that the pilot bearing was pushed almost completely out of the flywheel. It APPEARS that what happened was that during the installation of the transmission, long bolts were used to "stab" the transmission and pull it in to be seated. This method of reckless abandon and brute force to install apparently caused the tip of the input shaft to catch enough of the pilot bearing to force it out of the flywheel when the transmission was being forced in. Although I don't know for sure, I suspect that this is what caused such severe wear in the torsion damper.



Now that the old one was out, the new one went in. I'll spare you those details, but will say that a new 13" flywheel, ceramic disc, and VT clutch cover went back in. Accurately and correctly. In addition, a new ball stud, starter spacer, release fork and throwout bearing were installed.



I've had a couple of SBC clutch's This OFE, an an FE in a previous 12valve. The failure of this clutch was NO FAULT OF South Bend Clutch, but rather the imbecilles who installed it. I bought the truck with that clutch already installed, so I do not know who it was that performed the install.



Now for a short driveabilty report of the clutch system. It's incredible. I encourage anyone in who's ever in the Nashville area to come by and drive the truck. As a passenger with earplugs and a blindfold, you'd be hard pressed to tell when I switch gears. With the Edge HOT Juice/Attitude on level 6x5, there is no slipping, no chatter, and no otherwise negative indication of issues.



To sum up: No matter which brand you buy, a poor installation will result in a poor performing clutch system.



In closing,

Thanks to Peter @ SBC for great customer service



and



Thanks to Gary @ Perfection Clutch for a great installation of a great system. I couldn't be happier with the performance. I highly recommend checking one of these systems out. I've never driven anything like it.



BTW: I have no affiliation with any clutch manufacturer/reseller/distributer. I'm only a consumer.
 
Thanks Peter. I appreciate your jumping in here. Hopefully the findings will help someone out in the future with their install.



I had hoped to have some pictures to post by now, but I haven't received them from the "Undercar Digest" people. Perfection Clutch has an incredible lab, I hope to post some pictures soon.
 
The South Bend installer is unknown. Someone in KY is all I know.



The Zoom was installed by the engineers at Perfection Clutch (Zoom's parent) in their lab in Timmonsville South Carolina. I lent a hand where I could and watched the entire install.
 
just a tip for those about to tackle their own clutch install... no matter who made the clutch.



when you're going to stab the transmission, once you get it lined up close, take a pry-bar and pull the clutch fork, it'll slide right in!! never use transmission-to-bell bolts to draw a transmission home! :(
 
Installation Help Techniques

The sound of a transmission hitting home on the engine is its own unique reward, and yes there have been a few that put up a struggle and you start thinking about ways to get it done wothout destructive measures. Andy's old system had a few oops's in the previous install and later I will post some pics with the most critical detail mistakes of the installation, some of it has to do with the replacement transmission, no the transmission was not rebuilt wrong, it fit just fine.



Forrest's suggestion is a trick to get the disc to float and re-align to allow a smooth install. With these transmissions the fork is recessed in the housing and getting anything behind it would be difficult. And to release this system the slave pushes on the fork, the bearing is in the middle of the fork and the pivot point is on the passenger side, so any attempt to push on the fork will push the trans away from the engine. I think the tip that Forrest presents has a chance with a typical GM gas engine installation where the fork layout is pushrod, pivot and then clutch bearing with a system that has the bellhousing mounted to the engine and the transmission is seperate. The NV5600 has an integral bellhousing.



Greeting to all from Billings MT, bear country.
 
MORONS!! Using long bolts to force it in when EVERYBODY knows a come-a-long on the front bumper is the proper way. :rolleyes: :-laf

I don't always do stuff right, but that's why I try to as much as I can myself.
 
I use a port a power, and press it against the bracket I welded to the top of the rear axle. It works really well, crank the porta power up, if it doesn't go in, leaf springs coil up, then I go hit the transmission with a sledge, from the side. BAM snaps right in. I am glad I welded the bracket on the transmission, cause I seem to be only getting about 2000 miles out of my pilot bearings.
 
C'mon guys, none of you have said to start the engine in order to bump the input shaft to line up! It's in all the manuals!
 
Installation Pointers and Autopsy.

Sorry it took so long to post this, but I did want to point out a couple of serious faults with Andy's previous installation.



In the attached pictures you will see the back of the engine and in this case there are no dowel sleeves on the back of the engine. These small sleeves are the only precise location system for the centerline of the crankshaft and the centerline of the input shaft. If these sleeves are missing or if the holes are damaged, the centerline alignment is comprimized. The bolt holes are a clearance fit for the bolts and the pilot is not capable of centering the input shaft, it just supports it.



We found one sleeve in the transmission and the other was missing, this resulted in orbiting of one centerline (input shaft) relative to the fixed centerline of the crankshaft. The clutch disc is being torn up, mile after mile, and the damage shows up in the torsion damper and specifically in the hub to disc pilot interface, look at the gap created between the disc and hub when I moved the hub. This certainly can't be good for the front bearings of the transmission.



Andy's truck had a reman trans and it is likely that one of his sleeves went back with the old core.



These sleeves are critical and you must inspect them and make sure they are in place, if not, the torsion damper will tear itself apart. We happened to have a spare set of new sleeves, installed them and I put a bit of grease on the transmission sleeve pilot holes, no sense fighting this one any harder than it is.



Take a look at the pilot bearing. It was almost pushed out the back of the flywheel (we assume) during the installation of the transmission. Use an alignment tool or an old (good condition) input shaft. The photo from the engine side also illustrates the installation error.



Now, sum it up. Andy's truck was not in concentric alignment (crankshaft to input shaft) and the support offered by the pilot bearing was severly comprimised. These two installation failures would lead to early disc (torsion damper) failures, unable to shift, roadside breakdown, and early, un-necessary wear on a orbiting input shaft.



A carefull analysis of your old clutch disc and system will tell us an awful lot about how well the installation went and the attention to detail of the installation and skill level, and help you from knowing the tow truck driver by his first name.



Next time, I will show some pictures of what happens when you have angular mis-alignment, think of something between the engine and transmission that creates an angle between the two, it ain't pretty.
 
Last image.

This is the engine side of the F/W.



BTW, the picturess are from the infamous 6 speed NV5600 with the early, 1 1/4" input shaft!
 
For sure, the BEST clutch is no better than the install(er)! :rolleyes:



OR the way it's treated by the owner... ;):-laf



That's why I sorta cringe when a guy pops in with bad things to say about ANY brand clutch, or with complaints about how it engages during shifts. WAY too many possibilities for ignorance, carelessness and outright abuse to automatically start tossing rocks - the several capable clutch makers seen represented regularly here on this board only MAKE the clutches - they don't install or drive them! ;)
 
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