d250 front end problems

[OKish]

Hey guys, my d250 has always been plauged with a wandering and saggy front end. any ideas what to replace/adjust? im thinking both my lower control arms are bent and i need new coils. here are some pics.

notice how low the drivers side sits compared to the passengers, and also i think the rear is starting to sag. DONT LAUGH AT THE PAINT!!!! lol.

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thanks guys!

 

[rlyons]

Go to a good parts store and buy yourself a pair of heavy duty Moog springs and then go to the dealer and get a leveling kit, which is a rubber spacer that goes under the spring for the left side. I did mine few years ago and it lifted it up and leveled it. Check the lower and upper control arm bushings and replace them while you are in there and do yourself a favor and go ahead and put in a set of good quality ball joints and your front end will be fine.

 

[DodgeWarlock]

Second that. Control arms look fine. The front springs are giving out. Try the new springs and inspect the bushings. Probably wants new shocks too if the springs are that shot.

 

[Greenleaf]

I had to replaced everything on my 1990. The 1992 I had to replace everything again, including portions of the cross member that hold the engine in. It's the large steel frame the upper/lower control arms bolt onto.



Tons of work. Made me wish I had a new Ford Ranger.



You will also want to install a U-Joint coupling in place of the factory rubber coupling at the steering gear box. Worlds of difference there too.



Good luck. It's a bear. PM me if you need any "how to's". I have been in there and worked on it all.



GL

 

[RitterD]

I have the same problem, with shot wheel bearings thrown in for good measure on my D350.

I “acquired” a 1987 1-ton gasser front end from a service truck, used by the local school district.

I took everything including a-arms and spindles and discs from hub to hub,

since their vehicles are well maintained.



Question is, are these parts different that a diesel, or will they carry the weight?

I’d love to do a straight swap and be done.

Are the 1-ton wheel adapters the same?



Don

 

[Ncostello]

With new springs... the front will still sag to the left? Mine does all the above but drives nice and straight.

 

[OKish]

okay, so the control arms are supposed to be bowed like that normally? what would cause the drivers side to sag that much? i weigh 150 lbs so no jokes. hah

 

[Greenleaf]

Yep. Driver side will sag. Battery and fuel tank.



I tried to obtain the shim as per the TSB but nobody knew anything about it.

 

[dpuckett]

I'd think new springs would help the sagging left side. The outer portion of your control arm should be near level with good springs.



Okish- you better get that cab fixed before it gets any worse. It is not cheap, but will prevent it from getting worse.



RitterD- I dont think your parts will interchange. There is a difference between gas and diesel rigs.

 

[JLEONARD]

New springs will make it even, but since all the weight is onthe drivers side it will eventually lean that way.

However..... how many years does it take? Put in the new springs and fugetaboutit.

 

[OKish]

Okish- you better get that cab fixed before it gets any worse. It is not cheap, but will prevent it from getting worse.

you mean the surface rust on the roof? or a control arm bushing???

 

[RitterD]

dpuckett,

There is a difference between gas and diesel rigs

Which parts on a 2wd 350 front suspension?

Certainly not everything from hub to hub?

The springs I figured, but what else?



Don

 

[dpuckett]

Don- The ball joints are different, I know for sure, as are many steering components. Little bigger, little heavier, though not enough IMO.



Okish- I was referring to the rust on the top of the cab. It looks like it could be coming through, but I havent seen it in person, so I'll take your word for it.



DP

 

[dpuckett]

Don- The ball joints are different, I know for sure, as are many steering components. Little bigger, little heavier, though not enough IMO.



Okish- I was referring to the rust on the top of the cab. It looks like it could be coming through, but I havent seen it in person, so I'll take your word for it.



DP

 

[OKish]

yea, its not rusted through, its just that there is 5 layers of rustoleum on the roof and after a few months the rust comes right back through the paint.

 

[PToombs]

If you gotta use rustoleum, clean it off, use "rusty metal primer". This stuff knocks it back pretty good.

You do know primer doesn't seal right? All it is, (unless you get primer/sealer) is a bonding agent. Primer won't keep water out. That's why it rusts quickly.

 

[tugboatphil]

New springs will make it even, but since all the weight is onthe drivers side it will eventually lean that way.

Whew!! So that's it! I was afraid I was gonna have to go on a diet this year. :-laf:-laf

 

[OKish]

Well, im finally tackling this project... the only thing holding me back is the shocks. I can't find shocks for this thing if my life depended on it. I have 2 year old monroe P/N 59522 shocks in it that are totally blown. All the replacement ones are too short. The old shocks have an extended length of 16 1/8" and collapsed of 10 5/8". I called monroe and they said they never made this shock or its long been discontinued. The closest match was the monroe part 32376 or 34868 that they told me but they are about an inch too short still. The monroe tech had me measure mine and he said there are no shocks that will work for me, and he shows that numerous 89-93 dodge owners that have the diesel 2wd are having problems. I have no clue what to do. Any suggestions?

 

[cerberusiam]

The monroe's are junk, forget them.



I am using a Gabriel shock and it is working much better. Try a Gabriel dealer, CarQuest has them her, and see if they can help you out.

 

[OKish]

yep, i went by autozone to see the gabriels... they are also an inch too short. im stumped.