2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Improvement for weak headlights?

[gregdoerfler]

got mine from am-auto parts on ebay for 174 included bulbs, but havent installed them yet because i been fighting with suvlight.com to get the wiring i paid for 2 months ago. #@$%!

 

[pcarlson]

LMC is a pretty good source for replacement parts and upgrades. Their lighting upgrades (stock parts and after market) seem very reasonable and their harness upgrades to me seem better and cheaper than the rest quoted on here.



By the way LMC is looking for clubs that they can make contact with so if someone can mention that to Robert maybe we can get a club discount out of it.







catalog page Cover

 

[MRoberts]

You might want to do some more research before you spend any $. Daniel Stern is a expert on vehicle lighting. He will respond to your specific questions via email or you can call direct.



I had the harness from Summit, it was a POS. I recently bought some of the Depot Sport Headlights and am waiting for a harness from Daniel Stern before I install them.



I'll post some before and after pix when I'm done.

 

[charlessmith]

The only thing making my lights better on the 97 was sport headlights. You have to cut some sheet metal to install. I used 2 sets of relays, one controlled the 9004s and the other the 9007s. The whole thing cost about $300 but money well spent. The hardest part was getting the original lite assys out.

I've just grabbed a pair of sport headlights to put onto my '96. There's a Summit wiring harness on order. The lights are not OEM but appear very good, they came from eBay merchant: headlightsdepot for $175 the pair.



Now, about installing them. I can get the original lights out of the truck, but "fitting" the sport lights in (in 10 degree weather) may be another story. It almost looks like I need to drop the bumper down about 3/8" for clearance to fit the sport light adjuster screw past the fender lip.



Here's the real question: does anybody have a template for cutting the truck headlight bucket for bulb access on the 2nd bulb? I'd guess several of you have done this, did you (or can you) sketch out something for the area to be cut out?



Second question, am I safe running 100w/80w bulbs without taking a chance on melting something?

 

[Thomas]

I didn't loosen/lower the bumper on my 2000 Ram. I did remove the upper fascia on the bumper however.

No template needed - member Tardog posted a few photographs in a photo album a long time ago: https://www.turbodieselregister.com/user_gallery/displayalbum.php?&userid=10439&albumid=431

Try the lamps with the stock bulbs. I have performed the fogs-on-with-high beam conversion and built a harness that provides the BriteBox® effect. That's 315 watts forward on high beams and 185 watts on low beam. I find the light distribution from the Sport low beams better than the non-Sports.

 

[Joe Mc]

Oh Baby look at these http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.asp?page=22 Hmmmm . . .



I think I like the Black with two lamps PN 56-6908 ? ? ?

 

[Warpig]

Oh Baby look at these http://www.lmctruck.com/icatalog/de/full.asp?page=22 Hmmmm . . .



I think I like the Black with two lamps PN 56-6908 ? ? ?

Those are for 3rd gen 03-05. You need the 6904

 

[CumminsAholic]

If you want to do something on the cheap, I hooked up a $5 relay so when I turn the bright lights on the low beams are on too, drawing power from the battery. It made a huge difference, like holding the lever back when you switch from low to high. My dad has a 2000 sport and I'd say my lights are brighter on high beam than his are. Now if he had the high and lows on at the same time it'd be a different story. Also this makes no differnece when the low beams are on. But it's well worth the time and $$ if you don't want to spend a lot of money on new lenses and bulbs. If I felt I needed more light I'd spend the money on a set of PIAA driving lights that fit in the stock fog light holes. Just my opinion and another option to consider.

Corey

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Just my 2¢:

Conversion lights as mentioned are a great improvement. I found mine mounted into the original "baskets" so I didn't have to modify anything else but relieve metal to access the second bulb from underhood. Wiring each light with its own relay bank from the local battery also boosts light output.

I personally am allergic to hitting both filaments in a bulb at the same time—just cause two are there doesn't mean the engineer wanted simutaneous lighting. Heat dissipation and filament mount stress specs go right out the window, or if you don't mind buying replacements…



As to foglights - will PIAA 520's fit in the bumper? They did in my Pro-zapp and have lasted well.

 

[DieselDoghouse]

Sorry, those were PIAA 510's - see it HAS been a long time!!

 

[Joe Mc]

Those are for 3rd gen 03-05. You need the 6904

"You are correct Sir!"



As Homer would say, "DOUGT!"

 

[Warpig]

I have the 6904's and they work better than stock!

 

[KEnglish]

I'll get the sport headlights I ordered before the harness I ordered from SUVlights.com. Can I mount the new lights and run the low beams with the stock wiring until the harness arrives? Thanks

 

[charlessmith]

You can plug the stock wiring plug into the 9007 bulb, and then run both high and low filaments of just that bulb.

Has anybody experimented with beam pattern of just high and then just low of the 9004 bulb, and then the same thing with just the 9007 bulb?

What's the best solution for a low beam that doesn't blind other drivers, and what's best for high beam?

What does the factory sport light setup use for high and for low?

 

[Thomas]

. . .
What's the best solution for a low beam that doesn't blind other drivers, and what's best for high beam?

What does the factory sport light setup use for high and for low?

The OEM Sport wiring never uses the low beam filament of the inboard (9004) bulb. Low beams use the outboard (9007) low beam filament. High beams use the four high beam filaments.

I originally wired my Sport lamp transplants to use all four low beam filaments on low beams and all eight filaments on high beams. Minor heat damage occurred near the bases of the inboard bulbs over a period of months so I unhooked the inboard low beam filaments and have had no further problems in three? plus years.

 

[kscheffler]

I had similiar, but worse, discloring than Thomas on the inboard low beam bulbs. So I but in a switch to turn the power on and off for the in board low beam filaments. I find that if I turn them on in the winter I don't have any problems; it appears to be a heat issue.

 

[CumminsAholic]

Just a note... . I've never replaced a bulb on my headlights. I've been running like this for 50k (both filaments, stock lamps), so I'm not too worried about it. So as far as having to replace them because of running both filaments, I don't think it's gonna make a huge life span difference.

Corey

 

[Bob4x4]

Just a note... . I've never replaced a bulb on my headlights. I've been running like this for 50k (both filaments, stock lamps), so I'm not too worried about it. So as far as having to replace them because of running both filaments, I don't think it's gonna make a huge life span difference.

Corey

That has been my experience as well. I only use the Factory lamp housings and have never had any issues with them,and I have done Many.



Bob

 

[MRoberts]

I just opened my new harness from Daniel Stern Lighting. WOW! I had the harness from Summit before and there is no comparison between the two. This is a heavy duty harness!



Normally, Stern sells the components and you build it with your wire. Being "electrically challenged", I asked if he sold assembled harnesses, lucky for me they do! It cost a little more then the SUV Lights harness, but certainly is substantial! The SUV looks very similar to the Summit that I threw away.



I'm sure all of them will work, but IMHO the Stern harness is the highest quality available.

 

[FLynes]

If what I'm looking at on the Daniel Stern Lighting website is what you got, I don't think $79 is too bad... . it's the RIK-RAM kit, right?