Here I am

turning up my pump today. few questions first!

Attention: TDR Forum Junkies
To the point: Click this link and check out the Front Page News story(ies) where we are tracking the introduction of the 2025 Ram HD trucks.

Thanks, TDR Staff

Block Heater

injector set

Status
Not open for further replies.
i've read over several times the sticky by genos on how to turn up my injection pump. this is it: Turning up the pre 94 Ram diesel injector pump



looking at the picture of the pump there it dosnt look anything like mine! mine is a long square cover with a smaller cover on top of it. any diffrent steps/tips to go by? i dont want to tackle this untill i here back from you guys!
 
Im not postive but I think thats just the tps (throttle postion sensor) mounted on top of your pump. I dont have one cause Ive got a 727 with no over drive but im about positive that once you get that off it will look like the one in the link.
 
Yeah, the picture on the other site does not show the TPS mounting bracket is all. Same pump, follow the instructions and you will be good. :)
 
adjusted the full power screw. looks like the previous owner stripped some of the threadded screw so i could only back the nut off a turn and a half. turning down the idle was a pain in the a $ $! we were afraid to take off the tps without some guidance first. does it just pop right off and back on easily? i'm worried to take it off and have spring or ball bearings fly out of it! that's how my luck goes. the full power screw gave some nice power. couldnt really get the whole shbang because of the rain up here. mash it from 20mph broke the 35's loose!
 
TPS has no springs or retainers other than the 2 bolts. You will see the TPS shaft and the adapter that sits in the mounting flange when you pull it up. Really simple installation.



Turning up the fuel a little really wakes em up doesn't it? :-laf
 
pump

The best thing to do is leave well enough alone ! All turning up the pump does is ruin the fuel mileage and run the risk of ruining a lot of other things later down the line... We set the power to what it was for very good reasons !!!



i've read over several times the sticky by genos on how to turn up my injection pump. this is it: Turning up the pre 94 Ram diesel injector pump



looking at the picture of the pump there it dosnt look anything like mine! mine is a long square cover with a smaller cover on top of it. any diffrent steps/tips to go by? i dont want to tackle this untill i here back from you guys!
 
with the proper gauges and a good head on your shoulders, you shouldnt ruin anything, mileage, yea maybe... haha, truck drivers have been turning pumps up to ungodly levels, for years. it used to be not that uncommon to see a truck at night with a good flame out the stack, that buddy, is some dang fuel!



those stripped threads are more than likley where he took the factory clamp off and the treads came with it. that what happened to mine. if you havnet done the 366 spring yet, that is a must. it really lets the pump get the fuel it need in the higher rpm bands. she dont quit with the 366 let me tell ya :D
 
This motor was put in other applications in the same year with a lot more power. It was stepped down to be a little easier on the driveline of the Dodge. The Cummins is the only medium duty diesel engine in a light duty pickup on the market.



Your motor can stand a lot more power before it won't like it, trust me. You'll be blowing apart trannies, u-joints, and driveshafts long before your motor quits.



The whole tps bracket comes off by taking out the 3 allen head bolts on the pump diaphram cover. The diaphram cover is held on 4 bolts total, 3 of which are the ones shared with the tps sensor bracket. Once you get the bracket loose, the whole thing comes off. Theres a hex head bolt coming out the bottom of the tps that fits into a hex hole on the throttle pivot, which is what actuates the tps. Theres a preload on that bolt that you'll loose when you pull it off, but its not an issue. When you put the tps back on, lower it on to the pivot rotated slightly counterclockwise (I believe) toward the motor until it pops into that hex hole, then rotate it back to where the bracket needs to sit as you push it down, that'll give you your preload back. Don't worry, you can't mess it up. As long as you don't mess with the throttle while the tps is off, it'll go right back where it came. You won't be able to get it on and into that hex hole without the preload, it just won't line up. The tps is all self contained... no springs, pins, retainers... nothing like that.



Once the tps is off, it's all exactly the same as the steps you have there. Also, to take it one step further, look for "grinding the fuel pin" in these forums. Also I highly recommend the 366 sping, as Jimmy said. All this can be done at the same time if you want. Watch your egts with a stock turbo though... you're gonna start pushing a lot of fuel through doing this stuff.
 
The best thing to do is leave well enough alone ! All turning up the pump does is ruin the fuel mileage and run the risk of ruining a lot of other things later down the line... We set the power to what it was for very good reasons !!!



This is an inaccurate statement. Most people who turn up their trucks with the proper airflow mods report an increase in fuel mileage.

As for the ruining other things, well, you have to find the weak link some how! ;)
 
CRANK IT UP, the factory sets those things down so low to cover themselves on warranty claims, plus if you're afraid of breaking it what's the point of getting more power. It is CUMMINS POWER right not CUMMINS SCARED
 
The best thing to do is leave well enough alone ! All turning up the pump does is ruin the fuel mileage and run the risk of ruining a lot of other things later down the line... We set the power to what it was for very good reasons !!!



on what planet?! :confused:



this is the most irresponsibly false load of BS I've read on here in a while...



got a mystery you might be able to solve for me... on the 2nd gen 12v trucks, how is it that the power rating on the automatic trucks was increased from 160 to 180hp with no changes to the rest of the driveline or engine? just pump and injector differences... :confused:



how is it that the power rating on the manual trucks was increased from 175hp to 215hp? :confused:



how is it that the power rating on my 98 12v is roughly 600hp at the flywheel and my original 220k mile rear end and transmission are holding up great, the engine has no excessive blowby, and still gets 19-20mpg at 75mph? :confused: that's almost tripple the rated horsepower when it rolled off the assembly line.
 
Last edited:
Granted my ex wasn't cranked up too much (240 at the rears), but it was enough to make a huge difference in drivability, EGT never got over 1200 F (I tried;)), and I still got the same mileage that I got when the engine was stock.

Even when I drove it hard I only lost 2 mpg.

I also never broke anything in the drivetrain... . (then again I never did any 3rd gear clutch dumps and always shifted the gutbag with kidd gloves).

BOMB on!
 
The best thing to do is leave well enough alone ! All turning up the pump does is ruin the fuel mileage and run the risk of ruining a lot of other things later down the line... We set the power to what it was for very good reasons !!!



Yes i learned why the power was set to what it was set at in my statistics class. Dodge determines what % of trucks they want to warranty and sets the warranty period accordingly. Then they altar the truck to make that warranty as long as possible. A 250hp Cummins in front of a Getrag will most likely be coming back for warranty work, but not on the engine!



The ULSD will kill your IP long before higher pressures will anyway...



Chris
 
U L S D

Sulphur among other things acts as a lubricant in the fuel as it flows thru close tolerances such as injection pump and injectors and seals. Seals dry out and close tolerances wear much sooner since the new fuel came out. I never fail to add lube to my fuel for that reason.
 
Sulphur among other things acts as a lubricant in the fuel as it flows thru close tolerances such as injection pump and injectors and seals.



No sir, sulphur in any shape or form has little if any lubricating properties. It is far more an abrasive than lubricant.



The reason LSD/ULSD could POSSIBLY be harmful in the area of lubrication is the process to remove the sulphur further refines the diesel and removes the suspended aromatics that do provide the lubrication. The cracking process further breaks down the large molecules in diesel and effectively dries the fuel out.



Lubricants are supposedly added back to replace what has been lost but obtaining an effective mix and suspension is extremely hard to do. Furthermore, the efficacy of the additives is not near what the inherent propeties of the less refined fuel is.



The amount of sulphur in in LSD, and the less refined good stuff, is measured in parts per MILLION. LSD has around 500 ppm while the older diesel hase 4-5k ppm of sulphur. Trying to blame a difference of . 0005% and . 00005% of sulphur for lube problems is, well, ludicrous to say the least. ;)



The seal failures, while real, are wholly due to the lack of aromatics in the more refined fuel that kept the older seal types supple and able to function. Replacing the seals with updated compositions will entirely solve the problem, while keeping the fuel wear it is needed for lube instead of leaking out and causing failure due to lack of it. Far too much is read into the effects rather than looking at the causes. :)
 
HTML:
sulphur in any shape or form has little if any lubricating properties. It is far more an abrasive than lubricant



This is true. Consider sulfur as "dirt" and it will be easier to understand.



The way I understand the change in diesel... . when LSD came out it created lots of problems due to lack of lubricity. When USLD came out the oil companies were wiser finally and put lubricants in the fuel. Supposedly there is enough to protect our equipment, but who know what damage was caused during ther LSD phase (ok I reallize I left myself waaay open on that one thanks to Timothy Leary. LOL But honest, I never inhaled).
 
I lost some MPG when I turned up my motorhome but that's because now I go 65mph instead of 50mph. Even when turned up you can still keep your foot out of it, but the extra power is worth the extra cost. At least it is there when you want it. It's a want not a need.

The last TDR magazine has a great article on turning up the 1st gen.
 
Status
Not open for further replies.
Back
Top