Gauge Install

[DaveHess]

I've been meaning to do this for awhile now. Here are the pictures of my gauges.



View attachment 73840

View attachment 73841

 

[seafish]

Well... they certainly look great. NICE install.
Please DO tell us what you are choosing to monitor with them.

TIA

 

[BILLVO]

Dam Dave... ... ... Never mind the texting laws you will have ditched it and rolled 7 times by the time you look over all of those gauges.

 

[DaveHess]

Thats funny Bill!!!! Kind of goes along the lines of, "if it doesn't make you go fast, chrome it". I'm not making Kenworth torque numbers but the whole 747 motif is working for me!



Seafish: The dash pod has a DiPrico Boost and EGT gauge installed. The overhead has an Isspro Rail and Fuel Pressure Gauge. The in-dash where the cubby used to be has an Autometer Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature and a DiPrico Transmission Temperature.



I still have the SRT 10 A-Pillar with single gauge pod. I took it off when I put in the dash pod. I was thinking about putting a differential temperature gauge in there with a micro switch where I could switch between the rear and front diff temps. Do you think that might be too much?????



Actually, what would a little cool would be if I could find the Autometer Air Inlet Temperature Gauge in the Phantom series and put that one in the A-Pillar pod. It's a tuff animal to nail down.

 

[DaveHess]

Wow! My rearview mirror is filthy. But isn't that one mean looking drag car on the wall... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .....

 

[seafish]

Thats funny Bill!!!! Kind of goes along the lines of, "if it doesn't make you go fast, chrome it". I'm not making Kenworth torque numbers but the whole 747 motif is working for me!



Seafish: The dash pod has a DiPrico Boost and EGT gauge installed. The overhead has an Isspro Rail and Fuel Pressure Gauge. The in-dash where the cubby used to be has an Autometer Oil Pressure and Oil Temperature and a DiPrico Transmission Temperature.



I still have the SRT 10 A-Pillar with single gauge pod. I took it off when I put in the dash pod. I was thinking about putting a differential temperature gauge in there with a micro switch where I could switch between the rear and front diff temps. Do you think that might be too much?????



Actually, what would a little cool would be if I could find the Autometer Air Inlet Temperature Gauge in the Phantom series and put that one in the A-Pillar pod. It's a tuff animal to nail down.

Well, your asking the wrong person about too much, cause I don't mind the cockpit look either, as long as 1) it is pertinent info and 2) placement is everything.



My plan, when I get around to it, is to mount all Westach Dual gauges in Black on white.



There will be an EGT/Boost in the A-pillar handle (already have both, just not installed)



Then I will mount a 3 or 4 pod gauge mount above the mirror like Matt400 did here--https://www.turbodieselregister.com/forums/3rd-generation-ram-forum-no-engine-transmission-discussions/152091-no-stinking-velcro-overhead-pod.html



But then I will mount a dual oil pressure/oil temp, a dual voltmeter/ammeter, and then a dual rear diff temp/transmission temp. I haven't quite figured out if and what I will mount if I use the 4 gauge mirror pod-- probably I owuld change to a front diff temp/rear diff temp and then add a transmission temp and ... well, what would YOU reccomend??:-laf

 

[DaveHess]

Hang on... ... I am still trying to digest everything you wrote there. I'm lost! What are building? A diesel powered Millenium Falcon? Just Kidding!!!!! I like the Westachs. I kind of wish I would have gone that route. I was looking for gauges that complimented the factory dash but I like the dual gauge in one Westach. Especially for Boost/EGT and any temperature gauge. As pretty as my dash may look, it was a PITA to put together.

 

[DaveHess]

Hey BillVO: No crap here. I took the pick-up to Rochester, MN and back last week driving 65 MPH the whole way with the Smarty JR on Tow and got 23. 6 mpg. Departing miles was 53949 and my last fill on the return was at Petro (Exit 348) in Fargo at 54833 (total miles 833). Total gallons was 37. 449. I did not top off here at home since I used less than a quarter tank for the remaining 190 miles. I was very pleased with that. Not too sure how happy I made motorists around me running that speed but I kept to the Granny lane. Nowhere to be and all day to get there. Besides these Mayo visits are getting expensive for me and I need to save whereever I can.

 

[seafish]

so Westach, it turns out, will CUSTOM make any of their single gauge options into custom DUAL gauges, for not TOO much more cost then buying two of their single gauges. And Westach gauges are also top of the line in performance and reliability. They actually started and still build gauges for... aircraft. Since I already have the Westach dual EGT/Boost, I decided that I would be willing pay the difference to get the custom dual gauges to match in the configurations that I wanted and that made sense to me (like oil pressure/oil temp in one gauge and voltmeter/ammeter in another gauge and diff temp/transmission temp in another gauge) All I was saying is that I do not quite know yet if and how I want to configure the fourth gauge. For instance, I might due fuel pressure pre filter and post filter to let me know when to change my filter, or LP pressure and CR pressure, but it is my understanding that one does not need to monitor RP in a CR. So I still have to choose if and what I want in the 4th gauge space. That is why Imight just use the 3 pod mirror mount and the single pod a-pillar. Does that make sense??:-laf

You can check out Westachs website here-- Westach You have to buy BOTH the gauges AND appropriate sending units for them, which can be expensive depending on what the sending units cost, but you need to buy them anyway for their single face gauges. And then you have to ask them to customize them into dual gauges and to quote a price for that.

For me, this is the only way I want to go as it will allow me to consolidate most of my gauges in one area that does not restrict road view at all, or even mean taking my eyes off the road for very long (just like checking the rearview mirror!!) in additon to keeping the egt/boost conveniently near eye level in the a-pillar pod/handle where it also does not restrict road view.

PHEW... that took longer to explain then I thought it would. Questions??

 

[DaveHess]

No questions but an interesting read none the less.

 

[MMeier]

Wow! But isn't that one mean looking drag car on the wall... ... ... ... ... ... ... ... .....

Yeah , I saw that ... . more info. ?

 

[BILLVO]

Yeah , I saw that ... . more info. ?

If you look at The bottom pic and look at the lower right windshield you can see the hood scoop of the one on the wall.



Yeah Dave I believe you. I hit 20. 5 with mine when I first got it and it was totally stock. Then I added the Ranch hand and mud flaps and bug shields then All I could get was 18. 5 best. Then I added smarty JR and it never phased the milage. Still 18. 5 is best I can get but haven't taken too many long range slow road trips either.

 

[DaveHess]

Good eye Bill! That is in fact a hood scoop hiding under the cover!!!



MMeier: The car is a 1973 Plymouth Scamp. I am the third owner and it was purchased in Shreveport, LA. I did a "complete" makeover restoration on it in 1991 and proceeded to take it to shows and some lite drag racing. Then I got tired of getting picked on because someone found out the Scamp was produced and marketed towards women. So, as we do so often with our pickups, I began the transformation from mild mannered cruiser to sheep in wolfs clothing to 1/4 mile brawler much to my bride's chagrin. Here are the stats: . 030 340 with Ross 12. 5:1 pistons and file to fit rings, brand new set of 1977 W-2 heads that have never been on an engine, Indy 360-3 intake with a Barry Grant warmed over Holley 750 Double Pumper. An MSD 6AL and billet distributor lights the fire using MSD 8. 5mm wires. The cam is Comp Cams mechanical whose specs escape me at this moment. It's mean though. Exhaust is handled by a set of Hedman Huslers. The transmission is a 727A with a Turbo-Action full manual reverse patter valve body and an ATI Treemaster 8" convertor. 6,000 RPM should be the new stall (new convertor) to compensate for the big cam and intake. The transmission has a fresh race rebuild from Schmidts Racing Transmissions in Dickinson, ND. The rear end is a Chrysler 8-3/4" with either 4. 88 or 5. 30 ratios depending on 1/8th or 1/4 racing. Strange Engineering Axles and spool put the power to the rubber. The car weighs in at 2800 empty (3,000 with my big butt inside). The 340 that came out it was a 10. 5:1 engine and ran a best ET 1/4 of 11. 504 at 114. 876 (on the brakes for the win light). Best 1/8th has been 7. 499. The 12. 5 engine is on the stand now getting ready for a 2010 appearance. Hoping for mid-10's. Tough to get there so I would be happy somewhere in the 10. 7 range. Fast enough for Super Street (S/ST). That's my goal. Thanks for asking!

 

[AH64ID]

Looks great!! I am glad to see that someone is running more gauges than me (and will have to show my wife!!!)

I just did a big gauge movement. A few months back I ditched the dual a-pillar for a single a-pillar, and added a triple overhead, and dual column mount. I was running Boost, EGT, FP, RP, Oil Psi, and Drive/Exhaust Brake pressure. . Well with 3 gauges in the overhead I couldn't keep it stuck on 90*+ days (tried 4 different methods), but with two it would stay (just looked funny). So the overhead got sold and a triple dash installed, and the dual column got ditched (didn't like not seeing the 4wd indicator) and a single pod was added down on the kick panal next to my brake controller. I stopped using rail pressure as it was only ever accurate for 30 minutes, and I don't mess with rail pressure. So EGT is in the a-pillar (going to be moved to on dash), boost, fuel, oil are on the dash. (Oil will get moved to a-pillar), and exhaust brake pressure is on the kick panel...

Sure it looks like a cockpit, but the data is all useful and has come in handy once or twice.

That car sounds killer!!

 

[seafish]

Well with 3 gauges in the overhead I couldn't keep it stuck on 90*+ days (tried 4 different methods), but with two it would stay (just looked funny).

Which is why I think that Matt400 write-up on "no stinking velcro for the overhead gauge pod" SHOULD be a sticky :-laf:-laf



https://www.turbodieselregister.com...s/152091-no-stinking-velcro-overhead-pod.html

 

[DaveHess]

I checked out Matt400's post and that is a very nice install there. I have not had any problems with the velcro but I also have not moved the pod at all since the install.



AH64ID: You brought up an interesting point with gauges. One that I am in total agreement with you. At first I was always scanning the gauges. Now I predominantly watch the Boost and EGT. To be perfectly honest, the two fuel pressure gauges make me constantly worry while driving because they fluctuate so much. The RP I understand but the fuel pressure I do not. My sender is mounted right on my FASS in the provided port and that has taken to bouncing from about 16 to 20 PSI for no apparent reason. I'll look again and it is rock solid at 18. 18 PSI appears to be where it is "normally". I also have acquired a hissing noise from the FASS but I cannot sit here and say the hissing coincides with the jumping needle. I only hear the hissing from outside the truck, not inside. Sounds like a sprinkler system trying to kick out air and water at the same time. There is no leaking fuel so I am at a loss on that.



So, where did you mount a gauge on the kick panel???

 

[AH64ID]

I checked out Matt400's post and that is a very nice install there. I have not had any problems with the velcro but I also have not moved the pod at all since the install.

Yes nice install, but at my height 6'4'', I was only seeing about 80% of 2 of the gauges, so the move didn't bother me.

AH64ID: To be perfectly honest, the two fuel pressure gauges make me constantly worry while driving because they fluctuate so much.

Yeah rail moves A LOT!!... My FP is pretty steady, about 8 under normal driving, will go up to 9. 5 or 10 when I let off the throttle and down to about 5-5. 5 under HARD accell and upper rpms. (Thats a stock LP with 3 fuel filters)

So, where did you mount a gauge on the kick panel???

I like it there, one glance shows me trailer brake and exhaust brake numbers.

 

[DaveHess]

AH64ID: I see you're using a Cobra CB. I have a Uniden that I got for Christmas last year that has been a disappointment. I can't get rid of an alternator type whine. I run the RF gain all the way to the max but by doing that, my squelch control is almost non existant. I live in a rural area and even sitting in my driveway, I'll get about 5 "bars" of Rx showing. That's noise. I moved my ground and still no different. My last CB did not do this and the configuration is the same. I sent the CB to Clay's Radio in Texas for a Performance Tune-up and noise filter install. I am fairly confident I got ripped-off because nothing has changed. Anyhow, I am considering getting a Cobra 29LTD NW. What's your thoughts?

 

[AH64ID]

AH64ID: I see you're using a Cobra CB. I have a Uniden that I got for Christmas last year that has been a disappointment. I can't get rid of an alternator type whine. I run the RF gain all the way to the max but by doing that, my squelch control is almost non existant. I live in a rural area and even sitting in my driveway, I'll get about 5 "bars" of Rx showing. That's noise. I moved my ground and still no different. My last CB did not do this and the configuration is the same. I sent the CB to Clay's Radio in Texas for a Performance Tune-up and noise filter install. I am fairly confident I got ripped-off because nothing has changed. Anyhow, I am considering getting a Cobra 29LTD NW. What's your thoughts?

I am happy with the 75 WXST. I don't really use it much, its more of a holdover from my 4wheeling days. I have a no-ground-plane kit antenna, which isn't needed on the Dodge but still works well. I am getting my power from the driver batt and my ground from the dash behind the radio, no noise at all.



What Uniden? I had one before going to the 75 WX ST and it worked good, but I like the Cobra much better.

 

[DaveHess]

What Uniden? I had one before going to the 75 WX ST and it worked good, but I like the Cobra much better. [/QUOTE]



The Pro538W. I wanted the weather channels and a front firing speaker. I was already using a separate speaker that works great. I just cannot get rid of the whine. If I turn the RF gain down I lose reception but gain squelch. It is frustrating. There is a whole laundry lists of tests I have performed before sending the radio to Clays. I tested every aspect of the antenna. I have checked my SWR with a SWR meter I purchased. Everything checks as I would expect. So, I sent the radio to Clays Radio Shop in Texas, they had it for about two weeks, charged my CC $70 and sent it back. I had Retina surgery that precluded my reinstalling and when I did, still got the whine. I specifically paid for a noise filter to be installed. I am pretty sure I was taken. Anyhow, I like to use the CB on the Interstates to keep me amused.