jeep liberty fuelbasket WITH fass 150gph setup?

[subodh]

i recived today my fass 150gph liftpump and

the dealer sent me a jeep liberty in tank module



what do you guys think of that?



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(stole image form Pics of Jeep Liberty fuel canister (for aftermarket lift pumps) - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums)



The output line connector is approx 3/8". So is the tube itself.

Will this do the job?



The return line connector is approx 5/16"

shouldent the return be bigger?



but then it is a return from the cp3 to??

am i right what should i do with that ?



or should i take the cp3 return to the basket and put return from fass to fuelneck?

please help me i dont really know how to do this setup



but when i looked at the fass part the drawstraw was pretty big

but the hoze that came with it isnt really any bigger than 3/8 or maby its 1/2 maximum



Should i use the heating for my fass pump'? noticed it was possible and i live in finland so somtimes we se -20 to -30celcius (i think thats like down to 25f max)

or will it just make loss hp to heat fuel? the other pump did a good job with cold fuel



how much fuel is coming in the return from cp3?

 

[subodh]

it will fillup without using return line to? someone told me that i wouldnt fill without the returnline opening the canister valve in bottom. . but i tried to put it in a zink and it fills up!

someone told me that my fass wil ldrain this basket?
that cant be true right?

 

[subodh]

should i run fuel true stock filterhousing? is it a heater in stock filter housing? on my 2005 ram?
what filter woud you recomend for my stock housing an what filter for my fass 150gph hd series?
2micron? on my fass? but then the stock housing wouldnt be needed or how?

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Boy, I wish I'd known you were ordering all this before you ordered it.

To clarify, you have the FASS 150gph with the filters on the pump housing? If so there is a much better choice that will satisfy the fuel requirements of the engine and require less plumbing. If you could send this back reasonably and get a pump without the filters you would be better off. Then you would need no new basket or draw straw and wouldn't have to drop the tank. You could also run the plumbing through the stock filter housing for the heater benefit.

If you go with what you have then you will need to install the fill neck return for the return line from the FASS.

The FASS 150 can suck air from the basket when the fuel level is low (1/4 tank?).

The return to the basket you have comes from the CP3 and it is easiest to connect it there.

I would add a 2 micron filter on a remote filter head just before the CP3. You can also tap the out line of this filter for a fuel pressure sending unit.

No idea whether the Liberty basket will work, I assume it will since the dealer sent it to you. I sure would want to make 100% certain so I wouldn't have to drop the fuel tank a 2nd time.

Hope this helps.

Godspeed,
Trent

 

[blacksheepdiesel]

Boy, I wish I'd known you were ordering all this before you ordered it.



To clarify, you have the FASS 150gph with the filters on the pump housing? If so there is a much better choice that will satisfy the fuel requirements of the engine and require less plumbing. If you could send this back reasonably and get a pump without the filters you would be better off. Then you would need no new basket or draw straw and wouldn't have to drop the tank. You could also run the plumbing through the stock filter housing for the heater benefit.



If you go with what you have then you will need to install the fill neck return for the return line from the FASS.



The FASS 150 can suck air from the basket when the fuel level is low (1/4 tank?).



The return to the basket you have comes from the CP3 and it is easiest to connect it there.



I would add a 2 micron filter on a remote filter head just before the CP3. You can also tap the out line of this filter for a fuel pressure sending unit.



No idea whether the Liberty basket will work, I assume it will since the dealer sent it to you. I sure would want to make 100% certain so I wouldn't have to drop the fuel tank a 2nd time.



Hope this helps.



Godspeed,

Trent

 

[BarryG]

I do not have an 05 model nor do I have a cp3 so take this for what it is worth. My truck is approx 400hp and even though I have an 01 I put in a cam and am using a stock 12 valve model mechanical lift pump. I am using a modified jeep liberty module in my 01 and it works just fine. Both my return line from the vp44 and from my bypass for the lift pump dump into the bucket. I have filled up with 34 gallons on several occassions and had no issues with lack of fuel due to low fuel level. I dont know about the newer trucks but the 2nd gens for sure and I think the newer as well had/have a 3/8 supply line and a 5/16 return line so I think they will be fine. I got mine from here Modified liberty fuel module I realize it is a rather long distance call from Finland but a call to these guys might answer any questions you might have.

 

[cerberusiam]

I would get the Vulcan draw straw IV in 1/2 in and add it. Remove the existing suction line from the center section and run the Vulcan pickup to it. You can then route the CP-3\injector return to one place and the FASS return to the other and they will both dump into the cannister to keep it full.



While the 1/2 inch suction is not needed for power it seems to make the pump quieter and run a lot easier to suck the fuel to it.

 

[subodh]

everything i have is from source automotive. . and why does everybody think its har to drop the fueltank?? okay if i got everything right i will plug cp3 return tu the basket. . and take fuel to fass from basket. . return fass fuel to neck and drill a new hole in the basket for my espa heater. or should i drill a return on top of the tank for my return?

 

[cerberusiam]

You should put both returns back into the cannister to make sure it stays full. Not sure how heater plumbs in and what it needs. You could hook the output from the heater to the input on the FASS and your good.

 

[Brian Sullivan]

check this link in the forum section they had talk about that L. O. S. T Jeeps Offical Web Site - For Jeep Owners lost jeep kj

 

[subodh]

okay so now if i have everything right i will make 1 new hole in the basket i will use stock basket fitting for fass and a new one for cp3 return. . if i understand it right in will not come mush out of the cp3 return do i need to mount a pipe or just let it blow into the top of the basket?

 

[MQuirin]

What Cerb is suggesting is:

1. Connect the stock return line to the return on the module.

2. Remove the module supply/suction hose from its bottom connection and secure it so that fuel coming in through it goes into the basket. Use this hose's module connection as a return for the FASS.

3. Make a new hole in the top of the module. Install a 1/2" or 3/8" (as appropriate for the line you are using) fitting in the new hole. Use a piece of tube between the new fitting and the original suction connection point toward the bottom of the module.

4. If you need a return for the aux heater, "T" into one of the two return lines just before the module.

This returns all fuel to the basket to prevent low-level supply problems. It also lets you use a larger supply tube. Also, you don't need to drill into the tank or cut/splice into the filler neck.

 

[Mobius1]

That is the exact same setup that I have! I have a raptor pump so it is a returnless system that uses the factory return line. I got it because I did not want the 1/4 tank issues nor did I want to drill a hole in my tank. I cut out the factory feed and placed a Vulcan Draw straw II in its place. I can run my truck past the point where the fuel light comes on, no issues. I don't have a problem with my pump sucking air either. When there is 30+ gallons of fuel around the straw, I don't see how it could.



I think the FASS uses the factory return line in their system, however I am unsure. But the Basket part works pretty well!

 

[subodh]

GOT A MAIL FROM THE DEALER

aday ago i got a replay on my mail from the dealer that sent me

all parts (didnt know about the basket before i hold it in my hands)

he told me the stock return should go into the basket and my fass return into the fuelneck

and the fass should suck it from the module.

but i dont understand why people make so big straws?

if i look at the fuel line suplied with the straw from fass the fuelline isnt really bigger than the

liberty basket conections. just a little bit and not much at all but why then use that big of a straw.



my q is will this really work that bill @ source automotive told me?

 

[MQuirin]

I don't think it is ideal. Having all return lines empty into the basket is the best way, as it allows for the best fuel pick-up at low levels.

Installing an additional, and larger, supply connection allows the high-volume pump you are installing to work better and with less strain.

Of course, you can install the system however you like. We are simply providing suggestions based on our experience.

 

[subodh]

okay so maby i will make a new drawstraw then and a new return so i can use the old pickup for my diesel hesater

 

[cerberusiam]

my q is will this really work that bill @ source automotive told me?

It probably will work fine, the question is whether its the best solution considering what has been found out over the years.



1. The larger the line from the tank to the FASS the better the fuel delivery, the easier and quieter the pump will run which should help it last longer.



2. Rerouting both the CP-3 and FASS fuel returns into the basket and adding a larger straw is the best solution.



Yes, you will have to be careful when drilling the basket for the new straw but the plastic is pretty tough when its new and if you use a dremel to cut down the waffling first you minmize the potential for damage.

 

[Tinman]

Here is a link to a good post on the Dodge Diesel forum about modding the liberty canister for the Draw Straw.



AD 100 install part 2 - canister modification - Dodge Diesel - Diesel Truck Resource Forums



If the link won't work, search "Liberty Canister" on that forum.



You can use the Liberty canister's supply nipple to supply the FASS. However, if you look the inside diameter, it is rather small at the bend and is reason a lot of folks don't use this favoring the larger diameter of the Draw Straw. If you use the Draw Straw, you should use the supply nipple for the return of the FASS. Why? 1) more return fuel flow. 2)It is safer to not cut into the fill tube. (In an accident that connection could rupture and spill fuel causing fire. It's happened and it is and I believe not legal for this reason. ) This is what I did on my brother's 06 with a Walbro 392 pump and it works great.



If you use the Draw Straw, you'll need to gently heat it and put a slight "S" bend in it to fit nicely into the bottom of the canister. Cutting the length so that it fits into the bottom of the canister can be tedious and the top of the canister will compress (the reason for the springs) to force the bowl to the bottom of the tank. This decreases the distance from the top to the bottom of the bowl.



One last thing: change out the float arm on the Ram canister and the Liberty canister. The Liberty arm is slightly shorter and will cause your fuel gauge to read slightly (2-4 gallons) too high. (Consequently, the longer arm of the Dodge will cause the Jeep to read about 2 gallons too low. I didn't know this until I had done two Liberty - Cummins canister swaps. Now, if you let our Liberty fuel gauge get to the red, you'll be walking.



Good luck. Dropping the tank isn't too bad. I've done it 3 times now. (Try not to do it 3/4 full)

 

[subodh]

so if i put the ram canister arm i will drive until the light comes on and untill overhead is down to zero? usually i drive 50km after dte is on 0 never got air or stoped. .

the thread you told me about is just to put return in straw?

OKAY IF I GOT THIS RIGHT

1 install a straw to feed my pump

2 return from cp3 to liberty stock return

3 install a returnline for my fass (can i just make it blow down on top or do i need to meka a line down to the canister or pipe?)

4 drill a litle hole for straw to my espa heater



HOW LOW SHOULD I FITE THE STRAW INTO CANISTER

is it to far it will plumb it right? put on 2inches of fuelline so it will bend?

 

[subodh]

now i have it installed. but i didnt know that a fass runs all the time. .

i can hear noise in my car but when the radio is turned up i cant hear it

did make a custom install and all works well used the basket and modded it abit



1. draw straw down the basket

2 fass return down the old suplay port

3 cp3 return to stock return

4 espa heater new small straw