Which year, manual transmission for used truck

[SnoKing]

We are thinking about upgrading our truck. We have a 2001. 5 STD Cab 4x4 that is set up really nice to tow our 5th wheel. However DW thinks we should look for a newer quad cab truck and a quieter truck!



I do not want a RE48 transmission, after the money I spent to have my custom DTT transmission built, unless I found one with a similar build already done and exhaust brake installed. But one is still in the lack of gears arena!



I was thinking of a 6 speed manual truck and exhaust brake for towing. So which is the best transmission year to scout out?



2007. 5 and up 6. 7 auto? I am concerned about fuel mileage and DPT issues! Drove a 2011 long box 3500 the other day. Nice, but a city block long!



Ready on the left, Ready on the right, Ready on the firing line!



SNOKING

 

[AH64ID]

Do you tow heavy and often?



03-05 NV5600, 3. 73's or 4. 10's (. 73 OD) 3. 73's for normal, 4. 10's for heavy towing

05. 5-07 G56, 3. 73's only (. 79 OD, great tow ratio, lots of rpms for empty cruise)

07. 5-curr, G56 3. 42 (08+), 3. 73's (. 74 OD)

 

[HBarlow]

All HPCR Gen III trucks were excellent but if you want the highest hp and torque the 2004. 5 or 2005 has the uprated engine with NV-5600 transmission. Add a Jacobs or Pacbrake exhaust brake and these trucks might be your best choice.

The '06 and '07s were great trucks with 325hp/610 tq (I think that's correct) but used the dual mass flywheel/clutch assembly and G-56 transmissions. Lots of them are in service but for regular heavy towing you are likely to experience failures of the dual mass flywheel.

 

[AH64ID]

The G56 clutch is the weak point for sure! But companies like southbend offer kits to go to a solid flywheel, then they are pretty well set.



I do prefer the NV5600 in my 05 to my dad's 06 as far as clutch feel and shifting, but his . 79OD can tow a lot better than my . 73OD, its amazing what 6% gear reduction can do.

 

[RVTRKN]

48re's were not capable of EB until 06 MY, and the best transmission for the 3rd gen trucks is the NV5600. (Although because it was discontinued, it is expensive to repair if need be. ) The 04. 5 325/600 and very early MY 05 325/610 would be my choice. (look at sig) Early in the MY production of 05 Dodge changed from the NV5600 to the G56 so they exist for that MY, but are hard to find in a low mileage used truck. Pulling grades with my 04. 5 was easy at 17K GCVW. The NV5600 can be a notchy trany to shift, but once you get used to it, you will like it. The G56 is the weaker of the two, and I don't recommend pulling over Dodge's recommended GCVWR with the G56, after reading an article by Joe Donnelly on the G56. (issue 71/page 106)

 

[SnoKing]

Additional info, our current 5th wheel weighs around 12K+. We have been just going to Arizona 1625 miles in the fall and back in the spring. We are thinking about an East Coast fall trip. Bigger 3500 SRW and we might get a larger trailer in 14-15K range. SNOKING

 

[AH64ID]

I would either look for a 03-05 with 4. 10's or for a 06-07 5. 9, as it sounds like the rig is mainly used as a tow rig.

 

[SnoKing]

I would either look for a 03-05 with 4. 10's or for a 06-07 5. 9, as it sounds like the rig is mainly used as a tow rig.

Didn't the 03-05 come with 3. 73, I have heard on the 2nd gen forum that the NV5600 OD is not as tall as the RE47/48 and 4:10's has the engine really spinning at freeway speeds?



Guess you sorta pointed this out above. With a SRW we will never be towing REALLY heavy. So 3. 73's should be OK for what we want.



Just have to find a clean low mile 4. 5 or early 5 with manual, SRW and long box.



I have fixed all the weak things on the 2001. 5 = Injection pump, lift pump, track bar, steering box brace, transmission, gauges etc etc.



What about the 3rd gens? Lift pump? Injector Life? Drivers seat? Others????



What is the cost of a new set of injectors. The GM guys are forking out 4400 for new injectors on the mid 2000 trucks at 100K on the clock and crying a lot.



Snoking

 

[AH64ID]

03-05 could be had with either 3. 73's or 4. 10's. Yes you have a shorter OD in the NV5600 than the auto trans, that is the case with all manuals and the final OD in the auto. But with 4. 10's you have a better mechanical advantage in all the gears and can spend a lot more time in OD than an auto when towing.



At 75 mph the rpm's are 2240 with 3. 73's and 2460 with 4. 10's



04. 5 will need the lift pump addressed, if it hasn't been, and 05's are good on the LP. Injectors are the next issue which all boils down to filtration, a MK2+ kit from GDP is a great start and easier to mount on an 05.



Injecotrs are a lot, over 2K but I haven't priced them lately.

 

[SnoKing]

That is still a lot cheaper than GM injectors and a lot easier to change most likely! Thanks for all the feed-back. SNOKING

 

[HBarlow]

Several years ago when I was driving a high mileage '06 a set of Cummins reman injectors was $1800 at a Cummins dealer.

 

[cerberusiam]

The 48RE in the 05 and newer trucks is a totally different beast than the 47RE. For about the same cost as fixing the DMF one can fix the 48 to the point it is quite reliable. Add 4. 10 gears to that and it will match any manual up to GCVW and mpg better most of the time.



The 68RFE is a much better towing trans and as long as you keep it stock it will be quite good. Try to power it up and the trans won't take it without some modifications.



The manuals simply don't make as good average mpg as the autos. The OD ratio in the G56 at . 79 and even the NV5600 at . 74 can't compete with . 69 in the auto.



You still have the big jump to OD in all of them. The manual has a better reverse ratio but how often does one really spend in reverse? More gears may seem to make it easier to get a load rolling but staying within the GCVW and selecting the correct TC will mitigate that.

 

[SnoKing]

The 48RE in the 05 and newer trucks is a totally different beast than the 47RE. For about the same cost as fixing the DMF one can fix the 48 to the point it is quite reliable. Add 4. 10 gears to that and it will match any manual up to GCVW and mpg better most of the time.



The 68RFE is a much better towing trans and as long as you keep it stock it will be quite good. Try to power it up and the trans won't take it without some modifications.



The manuals simply don't make as good average mpg as the autos. The OD ratio in the G56 at . 79 and even the NV5600 at . 74 can't compete with . 69 in the auto.



You still have the big jump to OD in all of them. The manual has a better reverse ratio but how often does one really spend in reverse? More gears may seem to make it easier to get a load rolling but staying within the GCVW and selecting the correct TC will mitigate that.

I have a DW problem. I hauled a boat load of money with me to DTT when we built a custom transmission in the 2001. 5. Great product works great towing and with mild bombing it has good towing power. But we are not going to repeat that again. I will either live with the 2001. 5 or buy a box stock or already mod'ed truck that will do what we want.



I liked the new 2011 I drove, but man it was really as long as a freight train with the long box.



Chris