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Injectors

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Wastegate/Smarty question.

Shimmy

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On the way home from work the cel came on and the truck lost power. I limped home and had a mechanic friend tell me what I was already expecting. His code scanner showed p0202 and p2146 - most likely a bad #2 injector.



Here is where my questions start:



Should I replace one or all? If all, should I upgrade to 50hp ones? Where is the best place to get injectors?



I am not looking for huge power gains, but maybe a little better fuel economy. Haven't decided about getting a box or not.



The truck is stock other than some 315/70/17's. I know a better fuel filtration system would be a good idea, just haven't done it yet.



Thanks
 
You left out a fundamental bit of information if you want an answer: How many miles on the truck/engine/current injectors?
 
I would price out 6 new injectors, and maybe go with 50-60hp. Im not sure if the higher hp injectors will increase fuel mileage but is nice upgrade. Also your size tires will also play a big part in fuel economy along with front end wear and tear.
 
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I personally would stay with stock injectors because of the 5th wheel.



If you're doing the work yourself, replace them one at a time if you want. They're all going to go pretty soon, one at a time. If you're paying someone to replace them, I'd replace them all at once. Pay me now or pay me later kind of a deal. Plus, you'll go through what's happening now every time one goes.



Just my $. 02... ...
 
+1 on working with Todd @ T&C Diesel. Buy only new, not rebuilt if at all possible.



If you can swing it, do them all and get it overwith IMO.
 
I would probably only replace the bad one.

All six original injectors in my '06 were still in good shape at 230k miles when I sold it and had passed a cylinder contribution test at around 205k.

The injectors in my '08 are still fine at 118k.

Injectors are complex mechanical devices that work hard and wear out eventually. Joe Donnelly has written that he believes they should be replaced at 100k due to wear but they are awfully pricey to replace them as preventive maintenance imo.
 
The codes indicate a failed or failing solenoid. Thats replaceable by a service center.



A failed solenoid does not condemn the injector as being bad. There are other test that need to be run to determine if the injector bodies and internal components are really bad or on the verge of causing issues. Its a lot of money to spend to replace parts that re not needed.



The mileage you have is about 1/2 of what should be considered for replacement. Generally around 200k if you have been attentive about fuel and additives is where it is time to start thinking about it. Double that if extra filtration has been used.



The 06's have also had random issues with VC gaskets and connections, in addtiion to random failures of solenoids. More testing is in order to determine exactly wher ethe problem is and what the next step should be. The couple hundred spent in diagnossis may save a couple thousand in parts and labor.
 
electronic failure just replace the 1 , if long start,No start, rattle, smoke, fuel in oil further diagnostic need to be done, but in most cases if the injector(s) fail (other then electronic) replace them all.



Now solenoids do go bad ,but its extremely rare, I would check into connections and wiring 1st.
 
OK I did some ohm testing: This is from the plug next to the valve cover.

1 - 0. 9

2 - 13. 2

3 - 2. 2

4 - 0. 9

5 - 0. 9

6 - 0. 9



So it looks like something is definetaly wrong with #2 and maybe #3.



I didn't take the cover off. Is that my next step and look for connections inside? The connections on the outside looked clean.



How much is a selonoid versus the whole injector?
 
Forgot to mention on the last post... .

The meter leads alone read 0. 4 so that should be subtracted from each reading I think.



1 - 0. 5

2 - 12. 8

3 - 1. 8

4 - 0. 5

5 - 0. 5

6 - 0. 5
 
OK I did some ohm testing: This is from the plug next to the valve cover.

1 - 0. 9

2 - 13. 2

3 - 2. 2

4 - 0. 9

5 - 0. 9

6 - 0. 9



So it looks like something is definetaly wrong with #2 and maybe #3.



I didn't take the cover off. Is that my next step and look for connections inside? The connections on the outside looked clean.



Pull the valve cover and ohm out each injector solenoid while disconnected, if they are all equal, then check the harness through the valve cover, the valve cover gasket could be failing, if you are lucky that will be the culprit. If the #2 injector solenoid is still showing the high resistance... well then that's the problem, let us know what you find.
 
#2 is definitely bad, #3 looks to be going the same way. Test without the harness and see if you get the same general readings.



It could be a VC harness problem as 1-2-3 are on the same bank and the VC portion does short occasionally.
 
I get the same reading testing at the injector. SOOOO... .

Can I replace just the solenoid or better to do the whole injector? And do I need to cange #3 while I am at it? At what point do you change them all? If replacing do I go the next step higher (stage 1?) Suddenly this could get expensive.
 
readings are the same wheter they are connected or not. Do i need to replace #3 as well. I have one on order but now thinking I should have ordered another.
 
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