Archived FASS Install Broken Fuel line

[blasterfdc]

hey Guys

Looking for some help. While installing my new FASS fuel pump/filter, I ran into a problem with the fuel line that runs to the backside of the fuel filter. I cut the wrong line and now realize my mistake, thought I was cutting the fuel supply line which was replaced by the kit. #@$%!



The line says high pressure but was wondering if I can splice in a new piece of fuel line? It connects to the line going to the back banjo fitting on the fuel filter and then runs to the CP3 pump.



Help, I’m stuck.

 

[B.G. Smith]

Both of the lines on mine (06) that go to/come from the CP3 have a section of rubber hose in them. The automotive fuel hose for fuel injected cars is rated for about 60# and should be fine. bg

 

[blasterfdc]

yeah they are both rubber but only one is used now with the FASS installed, my concern was it has a special fitting on one end , clip like the one on the fuel tank. the end connecting to the steel line seems like it's heat shrunk onto the line. it has a plastic inner lining. I was just thinking of cutting off the plastic and using stanless steel clamps. my concern was pressure and if it woudld hold.

 

[BILLUA]

You can also use the banjo fitting that is supposed to go on the Cp3 on the backside of the fuel filter. Just remove the banjo and put that fitting in there and run the fuel line from the FASS into that.

Yes, you keep the stock filter but it doesn't hurt a thing, just a little extra filtration. I have mine setup this way and run a Donaldson PF7977 in the stock filter can. I have the 150/150 and run about 16 psi.

Also, please give us your truck details.

 

[blasterfdc]

2004. 5 Dodge Ram 3500. minor updates, Banks super scoop and filter; air horn; Smarty; Banks cat back exhaust. when installing the new FASS, i also opted for the XDP filter delete fitting. this is where I went wrong. the line I broke was attached to a bracket on the back of the filter housing. does that still need to be hooked up from the banjo that was on the filter back to the tank? this line runs from the CP3 back to the two banjos on the filter delete fitting, one line goes up to the back side of the engine somewhere and also down and back to the fuel tank.



Not following you on the CP3 banjo... . it's raining and cold right now, I'll go look later.

 

[BILLUA]

2004. 5 Dodge Ram 3500. minor updates, Banks super scoop and filter; air horn; Smarty; Banks cat back exhaust. when installing the new FASS, i also opted for the XDP filter delete fitting. this is where I went wrong. the line I broke was attached to a bracket on the back of the filter housing. does that still need to be hooked up from the banjo that was on the filter back to the tank? this line runs from the CP3 back to the two banjos on the filter delete fitting, one line goes up to the back side of the engine somewhere and also down and back to the fuel tank.



Not following you on the CP3 banjo... . it's raining and cold right now, I'll go look later.

Ok, I'm not familiar with the XDP system.



I went the way I described above and used the included cp3 fitting from the FASS with the hose barb on the rear of the filter housing.

 

[blasterfdc]

That's exactly the way I have mine set up, everything came with the FASS system. I thought how cool it would be to remove the factory filter so I ordered the XDP. it's just a piece of hollowed out billet which mounts between the banjos once you remove the filter. easy install until I cut the wrong fuel line... Oops. One should never work on their truck when already frustrated over something else... . the phrase take your time comes to mind.

 

[cerberusiam]

The fuel line coming off the back side of the cannister is the return line, you will need to hook it back up. It should have no more 5-10 psi in it I think and simple splice and clamps should suffice without issue.

Removing the factory cannister looks cool BUT detracts from the overall filter efficiency. Loosing the water stripping from the factory filter is a big detraction. If anything, you should be adding filters to augument that particular action instead of removing it.

 

[blasterfdc]

The fass system has better filtering and water separation/drain. The only thing I thought I would lose is the water in fuel indication. Am I making something



Sounds like I just need a section of quality fuel line and a couple clamps and I'm good. Only 26 degrees today might not great to it.

 

[mwilson]

What did you cut???



#9 ????

Mike.

 

[cerberusiam]

The fass system has better filtering and water separation/drain. The only thing I thought I would lose is the water in fuel indication.

You loose a LOT without the second pass filtration and the WS of the fleetguard filter, not to mention the fuel heater. Water may get past 1 filter but it stands a lot less chnace of getting past 2.

 

[HHhuntitall]

You loose a LOT without the second pass filtration and the WS of the fleetguard filter, not to mention the fuel heater. Water may get past 1 filter but it stands a lot less chnace of getting past 2.

Not to be argumentative, but I thought the Larger 150 FASS came with two filters, one fuel filter, and one filter/seperator... . Much like the older Cummins... . the primary filter is either a 10 or 2 micron, and it used to be you could use Fleetguard filters on it... . Am I out of date, here? I think it was like a FF105 and FS1212... the 2 micron filter (I can't find the Fleetguard number), I used the Wix 33422... . They all had 1"x14 threads, IIRC

 

[blasterfdc]

tic line leading to #11

What did you cut???



#9 ????



Mike, I cut the rubber/plastic line attached to the bottom of #11.



Also, can I tap off that banjo for the fuel pressure indicator?



Lincoln Maine, huh. . I'm originally from Camden.





View attachment 84278





Mike.

 

[blasterfdc]

Not to be argumentative, but I thought the Larger 150 FASS came with two filters, one fuel filter, and one filter/seperator... . Much like the older Cummins... . the primary filter is either a 10 or 2 micron, and it used to be you could use Fleetguard filters on it... . Am I out of date, here? I think it was like a FF105 and FS1212... the 2 micron filter (I can't find the Fleetguard number), I used the Wix 33422... . They all had 1"x14 threads, IIRC

That was my understanding also, the FASS titanium has 2-3 micron filtering and water seperator which is why I wasn't concerned over the deletion of the factory filter. Also for the fuel heater, I don't live where it gets overly cold but if it does the FASS has a fuel heater which can be hooked up.

 

[cerberusiam]

It is still single pass filtration. A good filtration system has multiple filters. Considering how bad a little water can mess these systems up extra filtration is a positive.

 

[HHhuntitall]

It is still single pass filtration. A good filtration system has multiple filters. Considering how bad a little water can mess these systems up extra filtration is a positive.

Well, I wouldn't argue with that. I was just saying that the double filter FASS systems are better than stock, IMO, when using the right filter combination.



That line #11 is the fuel return line. There is a short plastic section, perhaps 2 feet long, on both lines that runs from the frame up to the engine. The smaller line is the return line, the larger the supply line. Regardless, if you cut either one, you can use rubber line and hose clamps on top of the steel lines to repair the problem. Just be sure you use good rubber line, like Gates Barricade or similar fuel injection line, that is basically diesel ready. Regular fuel line will deteriorate rather quickly under diesel fuel, especially with any conditioners or bio-diesel... ... The main supply line should go up to the fuel filter canister where the pump used to be on the back of the housing.

 

[blasterfdc]

Well, I wouldn't argue with that. I was just saying that the double filter FASS systems are better than stock, IMO, when using the right filter combination.



That line #11 is the fuel return line. There is a short plastic section, perhaps 2 feet long, on both lines that runs from the frame up to the engine. The smaller line is the return line, the larger the supply line. Regardless, if you cut either one, you can use rubber line and hose clamps on top of the steel lines to repair the problem. Just be sure you use good rubber line, like Gates Barricade or similar fuel injection line, that is basically diesel ready. Regular fuel line will deteriorate rather quickly under diesel fuel, especially with any conditioners or bio-diesel... ... The main supply line should go up to the fuel filter canister where the pump used to be on the back of the housing.

That's what I thought, low pressure. I found a fuel line repair that included a metal double barb fitting. Warm the plastic line and insert, i think it will work and I can keep the quick disconnect and original line.



I understand about the double filtration but if the stock filter was a single system I think the fass would be better. Just a thought.

 

[cerberusiam]

I understand about the double filtration but if the stock filter was a single system I think the fass would be better.

If you got the double filter FASS then for solids the filtration is better, 10 um then 3 um is about as good as it gets.

The problem is the water sepration and stripping is only single pass. Water is worse by far than the solids. The stock filter is extremely good at water sepration at the expense of solids for a reason. Most of these filters are only 98% on water stripping so some will get past a single if it is slugged with too much. A second filter for the water dramatically increase the cahnces of keeping it out of the HP system. That in itslef is worth keeping the stock housing, IMO.

 

[blasterfdc]

Big Blue is back up and running, no fuel leaks. the barb fitting worked on the plastic fuel return line, had to warm the tube with a heat gun.



thank you all.