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Proper EGT location?

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oil leaks when I use exhaust brake.

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Ok all you DIY'ers, What is the best location for the EGT probe? Also I was going to have the manifold removed for the job, but was told its expensive for the 6. 7, due to all the crap on top (EGR). I was told by the Tech he would have no problem drilling into the Manifold if it was his, so what the best way and location? I think I can get a right angle drill in the area where the Y is just before the turbo. But I am not convinced its the right thing to do, I don't want to ruin a turbo with the shavings possibly getting into the turbo.
 
A little grease on the end of a magnetized drill bit is how I've done them in the past. Also coat the tap with grease so the shavings stick to the tap. Then I probe the hole with a pencil magnet just to make sure but never found anything. Did both my trucks and a few others as well and never had any issues. One guy I know does it with the truck running so it blows everything out. Make sure youve got a pair of glasses on if you go that route, a metal shaving to the eyball doesnt feel good! :eek:
 
I drilled mine on the truck but put grease on the bit and tap and had a shop vac right next to it, never had any problems though removing the manifold or turbo would be better. You really want the probe In the manifold if possible. I've heard of people doing with the truck running so the drive pressure would blow any metal out but never personally done that.
 
I think the large white spot in the middle of the photo, would be the best location where the bottom of the "Y" is.

IMG_2012.jpg
 
Watch you probe access and clearance to other things. I'd probably move the white dot slightly higher to the right



How I did it with less than 10 miles on the odometer:



1) Heavy grease for the drilling while vacuuming chips. A couple of pilot holes before ending up with the tap drill size. Magnet and vacuum after drilling. My drill motor body size forced me to be slightly of center. A smaller drill motor would have allowed me to be centered. Drilling should be the easy part.

2) While tapping remember your cuttting a casting. A good amount of tool pressure is required to cut good threads. Make sure you have a high quality made in the USA tap. I wouldn't try this wthout a quality tap. I perfer a real tapping fluid and vacuum versus a heavy grease.



It was 5 years ago, but I still remember getting good leverage while tapping was a PITA. Take extra time to make a stable set-up. I probably was kneeling, leaning or at some uncomfortable position while working.
 
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Guys, would it be easier if you took the passenger tire and plastic wheel well off? i would think that would give you a lot more room?
 
The location mentioned is proper, there is not a divider (at least not in any of the 6. 7 manifolds I have seen).

While the grease method is commonly discussed, I think it's about the worst thing you could do for drilling and tapping an installed exhaust manifold.

With grease if any shaving and grease fall off the bit and/or tap they land on the turbine. Now the grease keeps the chips stuck to the turbine until the exhaust melts the grease and now you have chips flying thru a turbine that is spinning at idle, or higher, rpms.

If you drill and tap without grease and sharp tools most of the chips come out anyhow. Then you can blow a little air thru the hole and install the probe. Now when you start it any small chip will be blown thru the turbine long before it gets up to enough speed to get dinged by a chip.
 
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And if you drill it idling nothing is going in, it is all coming out with the pressure except may 1 or 2 small pieces at the very inside. Maybe.
 
I pulled the fender liner and went in through there. Watch getting too much leverage on the tap. It's a lot of fun getting a broke tap out of the hole. LOL

Newt
 
When I tap threads, I normally apply 30wt oil, thats not a good idea with that getting into the turbo, or is it OK? So whats the alternative, dry?
 
When I tap threads, I normally apply 30wt oil, thats not a good idea with that getting into the turbo, or is it OK? So whats the alternative, dry?

You won't get enough in there to worry about, it will burn out the first time the engine comes up to temp.
 
When I tap threads, I normally apply 30wt oil, thats not a good idea with that getting into the turbo, or is it OK? So whats the alternative, dry?

I think the manifold is cast iron, and cast iron is normally machined dry. Unlike steel, which is normally tapped by using a tapping fluid, frequently containing sulfur. Cutting oil with sulfur is a much better lube than motor oil (for tapping in steel). But for cast iron, dry is the way to go. Using a shop vac to suck any chips out is a good idea.
 
A strong magnet attached to the end of the tap works well also. I've got a few different chunks stuck to my tool box out of a junk 200 horse electric MotOr. They're strong enough I have to use a pair of pliers to seperate them from my box.
 
And if you drill it idling nothing is going in, it is all coming out with the pressure except may 1 or 2 small pieces at the very inside. Maybe.

I agree with that, when i did mine the gauge people told me no grease on the tip of bit... used a magnet and a vac after... ... .
 
Will be doing it this weekend, and thanks to everyone who replied, you all have good ideas and I have chosen to drill as deep as I can go without penetrating through, then cleaning everything, then penetrate with a magnet and a vacuum. I'll then tap it dry, I'll try with it idling first if I can stand the heat. Wish me luck, I'm still nervous that I'll screw up a expensive Turbo.
 
it will be fine... . I have never seen a post that said ooops i broke my turbo, because i drilled the pyro..... save the heat, dont run it... .
 
Started the project and drilled and tapped a block of aluminum to make sure the bit was the right size for the 1/8 NPT tap and used the EGT probe to see how far I should run the tap into the manifold and found out the probe isn't 1/8 NPT as advertised, good thing I did a test drill. However I did remove the wheel well cover and loosened up the accumulator and was able to fit my right angle drill perfectly perpendicular to the manifold and actually drilled about an 1/8 of a inch in, when I decided to check the drill bit for the tap.



When I pulled the wheel well cover, a clip fell to the ground, I didn't think much of it until I picked it up looking to see where it would go. It turned out to be one of two clips to the air filter housing and was sitting in the cover for a quite a while. I have never seen my filter minder move over the years and when I questioned the techs about it, they said the difference between the 5. 9 and the 6. 7 is 4 times greater in volume and I left it at that. Only the dealer has ever serviced my truck, so I was assuming they checked the filter. when I pulled the filter my heart sank to my knees, it was caked with heavy dirt and more than likely had been in there for a long time. The filter minder never moved because the lid didn't have a tight seal. They will be hearing from me. :mad:
 
that's why i don't trust people to do it for me... . even when my truck was new 10 miles, i went home and checked everything, oil, air pressure, filter,..... but im sort of weird like that... . that is why i do it all myself... its like going to the tire shop, tell them you want a certain amount of air in the tires, and you recheck and the pressure is all over the place on all the tires... .
 
Here is the picture of the filter, I will be checking on a regular basis, especially after the dealer services it. There was a small jar of dirt in the bag I had it in as well, I took it to the dealer in a trash bag to make sure I got the right filter.

IMG_2032.jpg
 
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