Passenger power window buttons do not work

[Gas Hauler]

On my 03 the power windows (drivers and passengers) can only by opened by the buttons on the drivers door. The windows all open but can only be controlled by the driver. The window lockout is off. Any one else had this same problem?
Thanks

 

[jnson]

It's the lockout switch on the driver side. My 03 does exactly the same thing. Have someone hold the passenger switch down and snap the lockout a few times,worked for me.

 

[CJ8Rockcrawler]

I've also heard that it can be a problem with the circuit board cracking in the window switch board/door lock in the driver's side door. I have the same issue, but haven't bothered to investigate on my truck, only researched a bit on TDR.

 

[Badunit]

This answer is a few months late but for me the solution was to disconnect then reconnect the switch panel in the driver's door. That was all it took for me. It has worked correctly for months now. I removed it to see if I could take it apart. I couldn't so I put it back in and was surprised to find it worked.

 

[Blakers]

Mine is doing the same thing. Plus the "right" and "up" mirror control buttons stopped working. Same on both mirrors, so I am sure it's the switch.

I tried to take the switch apart, but gave up after I could not easily get into it. Has anyone had any luck repairing one? Anyone know a good source for another one? Ebay?

Thanks,
Blake

 

[Blakers]

After a little research, I figured I would follow up to my question with a link to this post http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/3...140614-window-problem-answer.html#post1507086 where cracked solder on the switch board is a common culprit.



So, what is the trick to getting these switches apart? I took the screws out and tried to pull back the tabs and snap it apart, but then got to worrying things were gonna fly out of there and scatter themselves throughout my garage, never to be found again.



Thanks

 

[Joseph Donnelly]

This has been discussed here a few times, and I covered both reseating the connectors and bridging the wire for the pass side lockout in the magazine. Bottom line, it is usually best to buy a new driver door module from Mopar.

 

[Prairie Dog]

I took mine apart and resoldered a good number of cold, cracked solder joints - that was several years ago and it's been fine since. Tapping on the part or reseating the connector can work for a while because it physically moves and flexes the PCB with the cracked joints. This causes them to temporarily make minimal contact (I spent years chasing failures like this) . You can probably make the pass. control work by repeatedly banging the lock-out switch on and off - but not for long.
If you wan't to "fix" it rather than pay for a new part, resoldering is the way to go. To do it right you'll need to first remove the old solder with solder-wick or suction.

FWIW, you have to force the switch caps off with something like a flat screwdriver. Be careful, they like to launch themselves into the dark recesses of the garage and hide behind things.

 

[Badunit]

Unplugging and replugging worked for me intermittently. It took resoldering to fix it. A least I hope it fixed it; so far so good. The two soldering joints circled in the photo from cumminsforum.com were bad on mine too. I've copied those images here just to make sure they stick around.



Getting the switch buttons off was nerve racking at first. If I didn't know it was possible (from reading about it here) I would have thought I was going to destroy the unit. I used vice grips set just tight enough to hold on and I wiggled slightly and pulled hard. For those who have not done this fix yet, don't set the grips too tight because you are also squeezing the clear plastic under the cap that makes the switch light up. The switch cover needs to slip off of that piece of clear plastic. I tried popping the covers off with a screwdriver and even tried with opposing screwdrivers but I couldn't get them to budge. Also, it is not necessary to remove the switch buttons for the mirrors (I did not know that before I did it).

 

[Prairie Dog]

Nice pics. The bottom image is a classic cold solder joint. Re-flowing it should make it last forever.

Scott

 

[DClark]

Sounds like this problem can have numerous causes. If the older 3rd gens are the same as my '05, my window swt for the passenger window quit. The drivers swt worked. I stopped at Spaldings in Spokane WA (recycler) and bought the whole panel with both lock and window swt for $12. Not worth messing around for that price.
DClark

 

[Prairie Dog]

A used part is likely to develop the same problems since it was a problem over lots of years.
Hope it works out for you but I am happy knowing mine will never have the problem again.

 

[Blakers]

Has anyone had luck buying from the aftermarket sellers on Ebay? Here's one: http://www.ebay.com/itm/Master-Powe...Parts_Accessories&hash=item35cc20e9d2&vxp=mtr

Typically, they are asking around $80 for this switch assembly.

 

[Blakers]

Well I replaced the driver's door switch today with a brand new one and the passenger windows still won't work.

Ideas?

Does anyone have a diagram of which terminals on the switch go to what?

Thanks,
Blake

 

[Prairie Dog]

Probably broken wire(s) at the driver door if all the other doors are affected.
Or the new switch is junk.

 

[Badunit]

Does anyone have a diagram of which terminals on the switch go to what?

These are the connector pinouts for a 2003. The pinouts on the module will be the mirror image I think.

And here is a wiring diagram for how the driver's door module controls the other windows.

 

[Blakers]

Thank you Badunit!

 

[Blakers]

Any updates on this issue? I'm trying to find a broken wire. I assume it would be the one from the lockout switch.

What color wire should I be looking for?

 

[Blakers]

Well an update: the wire coming from the lockout switch is a 14 ga solid yellow. I've tracked it to the cab side of the flex conduit between the door and the cab. Then it is again on the passenger side door. But, so far, I have been unable to follow it across the cab from side to side. The flex conduits actually have plugs on the cab end where the wiring harness connects. There may be a plug on the door side too, but I didn't look there yet.

The good news is I have 12 volts in the yellow wire at the cab side of the driver's side conduit. The bad news is no power on the passenger side. So, I assume, the wire is broken or corroded somewhere in between. Another question… where does the hot wire for the back doors tie in? If I can find where the wire is broken, I can run a new wire. Or, perhaps, just tie into a key-activated power source and forget the lockout button.

Any advice is appreciated. Thanks.

Blake

 

[seafish]

The wires will eventually break INSIDE the rubber wire loom that runs from the B-pillar to the door. You can disconnect the harness from the pillar side, then pull the loom back to find the broken wire(S).