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//////// Fried brake controller ..... Mechanic at fault ?? //////////

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Hi All,

I was getting my trailer inspected today and as part of the testing the mechanic pulled the breakaway pin and asked me to pull forward.

The truck struggled since the trailer brakes were locked.

The mechanic replaced the pin and asked me to pull forward so as not to block the other service bays.

As I stopped the truck, I was horrified to see and smell smoke in the truck.....I shut the truck off....and noticed the brake controller had smoke coming from it.

I showed the mechanic it smoking and asked what he had done and that is actually when he told me about the testing procedure I mentioned above (the pin pull and pull forward to test the breakaway system).

The mechanic went inside to get me my passing inspection sticker.

While he was inside I called a trailer repair / sales place (another business) to ask them about brake controllers and how much to replace the brake controller....they asked me what was wrong and I told them the above story.

At that point, a trailer mechanic said the test should have been done with the trailer wire (6 way plug in my case) disconnected from the tow vehicle before pulling the breakaway pin....said the feedback of the trailer battery could have back feed juice into the brake controller and fried the controller....he felt the other shops mechanic was at fault for damaging my brake controller.

With this, I confronted the inspection facility with this info and they said that that is how the test is performed and that they did not cause any damage.

What do you think.....should the mechanic have disconnected the 6 way plug before testing the breakaway system or should the controller be able to withstand the pin being pulled while hooked to the trailer with no ill effects?

Please let me know something because I have to get my other trailer inspected and I don't want another fried (or potentially fried controller).

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

Andrew
 
There are universal warnering about this very result. The shop should be aware of it and disconnect the trailer first. Snoking
 
Andrew,

Not knowing which controller you have (had) I can't find the specific instructions. But I have included a few references below which may give you a comeback on the tech's error:

Check the fourth paragraph in thiis article.
http://www.wbcci.org/maintenance-in...nts-and-kinks/153-hints-and-kinks-august-2003


See Item 4 Breakaway Switch Installation Instructions (far right side of page)
http://www.tekonsha.com/content/downloads/installation/N1028.pdf

See Item 3
http://www.expediter.com/pdf folder/Instruction folder/Tekonsha/Prodigy manual.pdf
 
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Find your mfgr's directions about this test procedure.

Is this the first time this test has been performed on this rig?
 
If you need to buy a new controller, keep in mind your trailer has 8 brakes, most are only rated for 6.

Nick
 
HI All,

Thanks for the replies so far...

The brake unit is a Reese....name was hidden because of how its mounted Brakeman compact...

I called the trailer place again and asked if there was something I can install to keep this from happening again (like a battery isolator etc...) but they said no and that on some units and some installs the test can be done without ill effects and on others it can't.

As far as I know this is the first time this test was done this way otherwise the unit would have been fried before.

I will research further but if you or anybody else can think of anything else that would be appreciated too.

Thanks!

Andrew
 
Wow. That's ridiculous. I don't know if the system is supposed to be able to take this, all I know is I suspected this would happen which is why every time I've ever checked my breakaway I make sure to unplug the wiring. Hopefully the info you're looking for is in those links previously posted, I haven't checked them out yet but this makes me curious...

Mike
 
I thought I had read and understood my Techonsha instructions about everything. So reading the #3 post it looks like the power cord needs to be a little shorter than the breakaway cable so it pulls first, for safety reason on the equipment and then pull the cable on the breakaway device to stop the trailer by locking up the brakes. And if you travel with a tailgate and a 5er you might not lose the trailer anyway.
How many people follow the instruction on placement of the breakaway cable? and attach it the tow vehicle, rather than the safety chain hook or the ball?
Thanks for bringing this up.
 
I thought I had read and understood my Techonsha instructions about everything. So reading the #3 post it looks like the power cord needs to be a little shorter than the breakaway cable so it pulls first, for safety reason on the equipment and then pull the cable on the breakaway device to stop the trailer by locking up the brakes. And if you travel with a tailgate and a 5er you might not lose the trailer anyway.
How many people follow the instruction on placement of the breakaway cable? and attach it the tow vehicle, rather than the safety chain hook or the ball?
Thanks for bringing this up.

I think if the trailer is leaving the vicinity frying a brake controller will be the last thing on your mind. My break away cable gets attached to the 5ver hitch and will be shorter than the electrical plug but if the trailer gets loose from the hitch both will eventually disconnect :D. Good info tho.

Dave
 
I have snagged the break away cable and came to a stop before. Can not remember if it was with the P2 or Maxbrake, however no smoke!! SNOKING
 
HI,

I read all the links and the part I found very interesting was this section:

Improper installation of the
breakaway battery will destroy the brake
control. The negative (-) terminal must attach
to ground and positive (+) terminal must
attach to the breakaway switch

Does this mean that by wiring the breakaway in the above manner no fired controllers will result by the disconnection of the break away switch while the trailer is still plugged into the tow vehicle ?

Maybe this is why the trailer shop says sometimes you can get away with pulling the breakaway switch out without disconnecting the trailer from the tow vehicle and sometimes you cant (depending on who or how the breakaway switch was installed)

I may look into that on all my trailers BUT I will still have people from now on disconnect the trailer before even thinking of pulling the pin....no sense in risking a perfectly good brake controller because of testing / inspecting.

I will confront the shop again on this issue on Monday (I will also look up instructions for my particular brake controller before going there tho).

Thanks for reminding me to get a controller that can go up to 8 brakes.

Andrew
 
I have a hard time believing the break away switch should fry the controller, Ive pulled my breakaway many times to test while hooked to the truck with no issues. What happens if your turn to tight and the breakaway cable gets pulled by the safety chains some how, it fry's the controller??? I just dont buy that its normal.
 
I've pulled the pin out several times on different trailers by accident, bringing me to an abrupt halt (usually turning onto a busy street). It has never harmed the controller.
 
I've pulled the pin out several times on different trailers by accident, bringing me to an abrupt halt (usually turning onto a busy street). It has never harmed the controller.

Yep, I've had that happen a couple of times and no damage to the controller. Why does it always happen at a busy intersection?:eek:

Bill
 
If you depress the brake pedal when the pin is pulled full voltage will go back through the brake light switch through the controlled side of the controller.Evidently some can handleit, others can't. bg
 
Sadly it looks like this is a serious design and philosophy defect with tekonsha and some other brake controllers. Testing the breakaway accidentally or intentionally shouldn't burn your truck to the ground from a brake controller fire.

It's going to happen and the brake controller should take it period. Perhaps it's time to find out what manufacturer makes one that can take this type of test.

I would make a NHTSA complaint: after all you are doing a state test and it resulted in serious electrical damage to your truck.
 
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