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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Accelerator cuts out WOT

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So I've had this weird issue where I will be driving at any speed or even a dead stop proceeding to drive from a stop sign. While cruising the accelerator cuts out and the truck just sounds like its only idling and pressing on the accelerator does absolutely nothing and then all of a sudden it'll punch it like you've just floored it. When I try to accelerate from the dead stop and even while driving while pressing the accelerator it does sound like the engine is struggling.

This issue happend prior to and after installing an airdog100. And the engine is recieving fuel.

Has anyone else experienced this? And is there a solution?
 
Read the codes. Key on and off three times, leaving it on the third time. Write down the codes on the odometer. P0216 is bad bad bad. SNOKING
 
Hopefully it's just your APPS (throttle position sensor which is under the black cover the throttle and cruise cables go to). If your codes point to that replace it with a Timbo APPS.
 
Yep, $1100 and 4-8hrs to replace VP-44 injection pump.

I changed my own. Got replacement from Midwest Fuel Injection. Left injector lines for three rear injectors in place and pushed them again block to slide pump off. Snoking
 
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Dang, that's what I thought it was possibly back when I got my airdog. I've got a tech manual so hopefully that shouldn't be too bad to replace.
 
Some pump vendors will loan you the gear puller. I made my own. Barring tool is handy to set TDC. Be sure the pump you get has new computer/electronics. Snoking
 
What could one make their own gear puller out of? Or possibly purchase one from? Barring tool is that nifty little socket that lets you rotate the engine correctly right?
 
I just used a piece of heavy angle iron and a spacer. Got grade 8 bolts. Yes barring tool goes in on the passenger side of bell housing below exhaust manifold. Long extensions and flex joint will put rachet up front to use it. Geno's sell them. Handle for adjusting valves also. Snoking
 
You have to be really careful to not drop the gear key down into the timing cover. Clean the new shaft and inside of gear with alcohol before reinstalling. Snoking
 
I've never used a barring tool. An 18mm socket on a crank damper bolt works for cranking the engine forward, or a 23mm on the alternator pulley nut to go backwards. Barring tool is slow and the plug into the bellhousing can be a royal pain to pull out.

I say try the cheap fix first and replace the APPS, since the Timbo one is about 1/8 the cost of an injection pump. On the 98.5 I had once when it acted similarly a new APPS fixed it.
 
I've never used a barring tool. An 18mm socket on a crank damper bolt works for cranking the engine forward, or a 23mm on the alternator pulley nut to go backwards. Barring tool is slow and the plug into the bellhousing can be a royal pain to pull out.

I say try the cheap fix first and replace the APPS, since the Timbo one is about 1/8 the cost of an injection pump. On the 98.5 I had once when it acted similarly a new APPS fixed it.

You had a P0216 code and an APPS fixed it?????? SNOKING
 
That might not be a bad shot in the dark for that sensor. Not a bad idea at all, definitely wont pull $1500 out of the ol wallet.

I've replaced the transmission on my truck and the plug for me was easy to get out and slow and steady won the race for getting those flywheel bolts out
 
How many people with P0216 fixed it with an APPS. That code is more or less the VP-44 death code. Snoking
 
How many people with P0216 fixed it with an APPS. That code is more or less the VP-44 death code. Snoking
I had it because a bad fuel line connection was letting in a tiny amount of air (sometimes). The VP-44 doesn't like air bubbles in the fuel. Still ended up with a new VP-44 and TPS before they dropped the tank and found the leak. Oh well. At lest I have an upgraded injector pump that should outlast me.
 
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