Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) Reuse old style ARP studs

[JHastings]

New to me 96' motor shows up this week and trying utilize my parts from old 98' motor.

My old style ARP studs (rocker pedastals not machined, valve covers ground) have a good amount of rust on them. Especially on the block side threads. Can I chase the threads with a die and reuse them?

 

[sisupower]

I don't see why not. Clean the threads good and make sure they are not stretched then you should be good. Those are very tough bolts as you know.

 

[GAmes]

Stretch is what I'd be looking at also. It is the determining factor when reusing stock head bolts.

 

[Woodenhead]

I reused mine that had some corrosion as well. You may or may not be aware that some folks have had an issue with ARP studs cracking/failing. I wouldn't chase the threads with a die for fear of removing any material, just clean them up on a wire wheel on the bench grinder. I inspected mine with die penetrant and mag particle as I have this stuff available to me. I didn't find any cracks. When I installed the studs I put the corroded ones towards the front of the block, I figure if one does fail I'd rather it be up front than under the cowl. I also used permatex on the threads when I installed them this time to hopefully keep the threads from corroding in the head and seizing them into the block, a few of them were pretty tough to get out last time.

 

[Bob4x4]

I agree the way the threads are formed originaly I would not use a die to clean.Be sure to use ARP's thread lube to keep the torque specs accurate

 

[JHastings]

Sounds good, that's what I'll do. Any length I can measure against to check stretch? Lastly sounds like I should use bottom tap to chase block threads. How do you do that? Use a 1/4" extension? How do you not drop tap down in hole?

 

[GAmes]

It seems to me that ARP can tell you the max length of each different length stud. I've never bottom tapped the holes, just cleaned them with long q-tips and solvent.

 

[Woodenhead]

I doubt the studs will be stretched, for sure the stud material has a much higher yield and tensile strength than the block material, you'll pull the block threads before you start screwing up studs. I guess it doesn't hurt to check though.
If you have an old head bolt, grind the end square and grind a groove axially along the threads, use a nut or die to debur the threads. Use this to clean the threads out in the block. Then flush the holes, I like to use non flammable brake cleaner, an old shop vac. and a blow gun with a tube that'll reach the bottom of the hole. Wear you glasses, do it in a well ventilated area.
If the stud won't run all the way to the bottom of the hole (minus a turn) then you may need to use a bottoming tap, I didn't need to do this on my '98.
As mentioned above, be sure to use ARP lube on the nuts and under the head of the nut/washer.

 

[Bob4x4]

There are extra long taps available that will reach through the head,I would search the internet for a source,I've always had the head off so havent sourced any

 

[Woodenhead]

I guess I didn't realize the studs were being swapped in with the head still on. That makes the cleaning process a bit more difficult but still doable. I'd be cautious about flooding the hole with solvent, not sure what happens if that wicks in around the head gasket.
If the motor is on a stand and it's history is unknown, I'd consider pulling the head to have it checked out, clean things up and put in a fresh gasket.

 

[JHastings]

Ok sounds like a plan. I may take the head off to make everything easier....swapping valve springs, checking for cracks etc. If I do I guess you always machine the surface? Need a thicker head gasket then too?

 

[JR]

I reused mine that had some corrosion as well. You may or may not be aware that some folks have had an issue with ARP studs cracking/failing. I wouldn't chase the threads with a die for fear of removing any material, just clean them up on a wire wheel on the bench grinder. I inspected mine with die penetrant and mag particle as I have this stuff available to me. I didn't find any cracks. When I installed the studs I put the corroded ones towards the front of the block, I figure if one does fail I'd rather it be up front than under the cowl. I also used permatex on the threads when I installed them this time to hopefully keep the threads from corroding in the head and seizing them into the block, a few of them were pretty tough to get out last time.

Die pen/mag particle - Weld inspector?

 

[GAmes]

If the head needs to be resurfaced (it isn't automatic) you don't necessarily need a thicker head gasket. That is required if the block deck is milled, which allows for piston clearance at the top of the stroke. If the deck has been milled previously the machinest should have stamped how much was taken off somewhere on the deck.

 

[JHastings]

Well went to clean up the motor today prior to taking off the head. It was sold as a 1996 auto motor. I would have thought 180hp pump etc. Here is the data plate. #ad




838 pump with 1549 CPL. Back me up but seems like a 94 or 95 auto 160 pump motor.

 

[JHastings]

Well went to clean up the motor today prior to taking off the head. It was sold as a 1996 auto motor. I would have thought 180hp pump etc. Here is the data plate. #ad




838 pump with 1549 CPL. Back me up but seems like a 94 or 95 auto 160 pump motor. Also has build date of 1-24-94. Could that motormke itself into a CA pickup built Feb 1996?

 

[JHastings]

In addition, it is a non EGR motor.

 

[GAmes]

From this chart it is a '95 automatic 160 hp engine.

http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/Facts/Cpl.htm

 

[GAmes]

None of that matters if you use your old IP, turbo and injectors. Other than the question "what else did the seller lie about?"

 

[JHastings]

Well that's the deal, u don't have a 215 pump. Long story short I have a 160 pump right now and was looking forward to having a 180. The guy seems stand-up, but he too doesn't understand how this motor found it's not way into a 96. He says he has known this truck since it was new.

 

[GAmes]

For what it's worth to future readers, if they don't have a CPL, but the IP tag is legible;

215hp is 887 and 913/908
180hp is 885 and 911 (I think a 912 is an CA 180 pump)
160/175hp is 838/841/854.

As for knowing the truck since new, I'm thinking this might not be a stand up guy. I didn't look at your signature pump #, assumed you had the original 215 pump.