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What else when replacing ball joints...?

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Next week I'm having new Carli ball joints installed on my 2005 4x4 and wanted to ask what else should I have them replace when they're working on each side? I was going to have them replace the unitized bearings and the u-joints at each hub. Anything else I should have them replace while they have it apart?

Are these the correct item numbers for the front u-joint and bearing assembly?

Timken HA590032 Axel Bearing and Hub Assembly

Spicer 5006813 u-joint

Thanks
 
i would check all tie rod ends and replace them if needed. If you found 1 or 2 tie rods loose, might as well replace all of them. Check the track bar too. My feelings are, If you are going to KEEP the truck and want it dependable and to not have to go back to the same area to repair something else, fix everything to last another 80-100,000 miles and be done with it.
 
Go here. www.skf.com/binary/30-147210/457891.pdf

Make sure whomever does the work they pre-load properly when installing. After some miles and doing regular maint. while on the jack, I checked axis & lateral for any wobble as I routinely do and my left was loose. I asked my shop if they pre-loaded and was told no, not needed. BULL CRAP to that. How am I to know if I had a bad hub bearing or not since they didn't do it per Mnf. guide.
 
Go here. www.skf.com/binary/30-147210/457891.pdf

Make sure whomever does the work they pre-load properly when installing. After some miles and doing regular maint. while on the jack, I checked axis & lateral for any wobble as I routinely do and my left was loose. I asked my shop if they pre-loaded and was told no, not needed. BULL CRAP to that. How am I to know if I had a bad hub bearing or not since they didn't do it per Mnf. guide.
Question...What part of the hub assembly is supposed to be pre-loaded?
 
Copied from my OEM service manual.

INSTALLATION
(1) Clean axle shaft and apply a thin film of
Mopar Wheel Bearing Grease to the shaft splines
and hub bore.
(2) Install axle shaft through the steering knuckle
and into the differential side gears (Fig. 24).
(3) Install hub bearing in the knuckle.
(4) Install hub bearing bolts and tighten to 202
N·m (149 ft. lbs.).
(5) Install ABS wheel speed sensor, brake rotor
and caliper
 
I see. So you mean torquing the front axle nuts to proper torque? I think that is real important too. If they aren't torqued and a guy is using 4wd a lot, the splines can tear out. Also the spacer between the two bearings will wear and foul up the tolerance between the two bearings.
 
I'm not an expert on that, others here are and would or could answer that question. I bought SKF hubs direct from Mfr. I called them after I found out one was loose and they said always follow OEM and or Mfr. req's. e.g. by the book... Duh !
 
The splined axle goes through the unit bearing and the castellated nut is torqued and pinned.
The unit bearing is only two sealed roller bearings backed up on each other. Only a interference fit and maybe a snap ring is holding things together. That torqued nut is really what's loading those bearings together as a unit via the inner races. A very important thing is to sock that down properly.
 
Back to original question: IMO, AT LEAST to BJs and wheel bearings. It all has to come apart so do it once, do it right. My experience is that if you only one, you'll be doing the other soon enough. The axle U joints??? Those can go quiet a while. On my 01, I when ahead and did them with the WBs and BJs. This was at about 170K IIRC. The U joints where still tight. I got all my parts from Quad 4x4 and got greasable BJs and U joints, OEM Wheel bears. On the 06, I did Carli BJs and DynaTrac hubs. Hubs are rebuild-able (and new bearing about $100) and since the U joints are rarely spinning (hubs unlocked), future maintenance really shouldn't be an issue. The carli BJs should really last many decades with my current duty cycle. So hopefully I wont' have to redo any of this anytime soon. On the wife Jeep, I did wheel bears about a year ago, and didn't do BJs. Now BJs are gone. :rolleyes:
 
If I were you( and I'm not you know) I'd consider switching to the new style tie rod and drag link assy. if I needed to do any tie rod ends.
 
On my 01 when I as doing the BJ's in addition to what others have mentioned I also did the axle seals too might as well do it all since it is apart and save the trouble of going back in next year for something that you didn't do.
 
If I were you( and I'm not you know) I'd consider switching to the new style tie rod and drag link assy. if I needed to do any tie rod ends.

Not if he likes his steering the way it is.

On my 01 when I as doing the BJ's in addition to what others have mentioned I also did the axle seals too might as well do it all since it is apart and save the trouble of going back in next year for something that you didn't do.

If they are leaking yes, not leaking then don't touch them. The diff has to be dropped to change them and that has its own potential for issues.


The bearings should last 150-180k with no maintenance. If you aren't close to that just grease the bearings with some high temp grease and run them. Same with the axle joints, if they are high mileage and are showing ANY signs of dry cups or looseness now is the time to do them. Just be careful in punching the old one south that and ear doesn't bend and introduce more problems. Changing the ujoints when they need it is not really that hard
 
Not if he likes his steering the way it is.



If they are leaking yes, not leaking then don't touch them. The diff has to be dropped to change them and that has its own potential for issues.


The bearings should last 150-180k with no maintenance. If you aren't close to that just grease the bearings with some high temp grease and run them. Same with the axle joints, if they are high mileage and are showing ANY signs of dry cups or looseness now is the time to do them. Just be careful in punching the old one south that and ear doesn't bend and introduce more problems. Changing the ujoints when they need it is not really that hard

If you're referring to HUB/UNIT bearings, there is no way to grease them. Others have drilled a hole, tapped and inserted grease fitting. I called the manufacture at SKF to confirm as I thought about doing it with a new set, it does nothing they are sealed. 3rd Gen anyhow.
 
Cerb. You're obviously not a fan of the updated steering linkage. Why?

I have had and continue to have nothing but problems with the supposed "upgrade" to the t-type steering. The original y-type system lasted 180k in all manner of road conditions, sizes of tires up to 33", and heavy towing from coast to coast and border to border. In the intervening 100k I have rebuilt the drag link twice and the tie rods are now loose enough they are creating problems. I have used both moog and OE pieces and there seems to be little difference in wear ability. In addition the steering has never been as consistent and tight as the y-type even with the big box upgrade. More consistent with the big box but the center feel has never be what would be called "good". With the fast ratio Borgeson box the over steer was terrible on direction change and brutal in the center position, was always chasing a static position. the big box is better with the slower ratio but still too much required to get going either direction from center. With stock height bump steer was minimal, with longer springs and basically a 3" leveling system bump steer is terrible. On smooth even surfaces it is fine but that is not the norm pretty anywhere I have been, definitely not where I live.

The front end has been rebuilt with a heim end track bar and poly bushings, control arms rebuilt with poly bushings, caster is set to 4 degrees, sway bar links updated, dual opposed steering dampers,everything is tight with the only real movement at rest being the poly bushing on the frame end of the track bar. In normal driving I am seeing in excess of 1/2 inch to 1 inch of steering wheel movement of bump steer in normal suspension cycling, more in big changes. The ride is great with the Thuren soft ride springs and on a smooth level surface it is dead straight and consistent. Loaded the feel is better as the suspension doesn't move as much.

I ma lucky enough to have a comparison vehicle to judge against. My son has the same truck, same leveling with wider and taller tires that usually contribute more of the sloppy feel especially on substandard surfaces. The difference is a cross over steering setup with the track bar and drag much better aligned to run in the same plane. It is running a fast ratio Borgeson box and NO steering damper. The difference on the same roads is night and day. Very minimal bump steer and only in the worst conditions, and, the over all feel is much "tighter" with control much more exact coming off center and with direction changes. Once you drive a steering system that is good, you wonder why this was EVER considered an upgrade in the first place. One also sees why all the new trucks have gone to cross over steering and why.

If you're referring to HUB/UNIT bearings, there is no way to grease them. Others have drilled a hole, tapped and inserted grease fitting. I called the manufacture at SKF to confirm as I thought about doing it with a new set, it does nothing they are sealed. 3rd Gen anyhow.

SKF is wrong and greasing the unit bearings is a common practice, 2nd or 3rd gen. The bearings are sealed externally but not internally so it is possible to grease them. Grease is pumped into the hub thru the ABS sensor hole using an adapter that will fit tightly in the hole using the ABS hold down screw to hold it. Loosening the axle shaft nut allows more of a void to fill with grease and easier migration to the rollers but it will migrate even without loosening the axle nut. Drilling and tapping a zerk works probably a little better as it can be put closer to the joint of mating of the bearings.
 
I have had and continue to have nothing but problems with the supposed "upgrade" to the t-type steering. The original y-type system lasted 180k in all manner of road conditions, sizes of tires up to 33", and heavy towing from coast to coast and border to border. In the intervening 100k I have rebuilt the drag link twice and the tie rods are now loose enough they are creating problems. I have used both moog and OE pieces and there seems to be little difference in wear ability. In addition the steering has never been as consistent and tight as the y-type even with the big box upgrade. More consistent with the big box but the center feel has never be what would be called "good". With the fast ratio Borgeson box the over steer was terrible on direction change and brutal in the center position, was always chasing a static position. the big box is better with the slower ratio but still too much required to get going either direction from center. With stock height bump steer was minimal, with longer springs and basically a 3" leveling system bump steer is terrible. On smooth even surfaces it is fine but that is not the norm pretty anywhere I have been, definitely not where I live.

The front end has been rebuilt with a heim end track bar and poly bushings, control arms rebuilt with poly bushings, caster is set to 4 degrees, sway bar links updated, dual opposed steering dampers,everything is tight with the only real movement at rest being the poly bushing on the frame end of the track bar. In normal driving I am seeing in excess of 1/2 inch to 1 inch of steering wheel movement of bump steer in normal suspension cycling, more in big changes. The ride is great with the Thuren soft ride springs and on a smooth level surface it is dead straight and consistent. Loaded the feel is better as the suspension doesn't move as much.

I ma lucky enough to have a comparison vehicle to judge against. My son has the same truck, same leveling with wider and taller tires that usually contribute more of the sloppy feel especially on substandard surfaces. The difference is a cross over steering setup with the track bar and drag much better aligned to run in the same plane. It is running a fast ratio Borgeson box and NO steering damper. The difference on the same roads is night and day. Very minimal bump steer and only in the worst conditions, and, the over all feel is much "tighter" with control much more exact coming off center and with direction changes. Once you drive a steering system that is good, you wonder why this was EVER considered an upgrade in the first place. One also sees why all the new trucks have gone to cross over steering and why.



SKF is wrong and greasing the unit bearings is a common practice, 2nd or 3rd gen. The bearings are sealed externally but not internally so it is possible to grease them. Grease is pumped into the hub thru the ABS sensor hole using an adapter that will fit tightly in the hole using the ABS hold down screw to hold it. Loosening the axle shaft nut allows more of a void to fill with grease and easier migration to the rollers but it will migrate even without loosening the axle nut. Drilling and tapping a zerk works probably a little better as it can be put closer to the joint of mating of the bearings.

How are you going to get grease in a sealed bearing ? When I changed mine to SKF, I looked at the assembly and could not see any way grease is going to enter the bearing with seals on both bearing faces. Maybe possible to get some in other areas around the bearing but since it is pressed into the hub, I can't see it. This is something I am seriously going to look into again, call the manufacture stating the contradiction you mention along with your reply.
 
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