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Engine/Transmission (1994 - 1998) 1993 ish 12v into a 2001 truck with a 24v.

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Engine/Transmission (1998.5 - 2002) Scotty II air intake replacement

2nd Gen Non-Engine/Transmission Very hard steering when stopped

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I already have a 12V in a 1993 truck but the truck is rusted out and the motor runs really good and strong. I am picking up a 2001 3500 with a hole in the block and my question is, will it be wise for me to do this or will it end up costing me a bunch of money? The truck is for sale for $2500 and has a new southbend clutch (5 speed i believe) and a bunch of other good stuff and is in pretty good shape.:confused: I'm pretty mechanically inclined but not and expert. I know there is some pretty good cummins savey guys on here I'm sure. Also i dont know of what extras i would need to do this? Any help would be GREATLY Appreciated as im supposed to be buying the rruck tonight.
 
Im doing the same thing to a 97 V10 truck that had a Since what you have is a diesel with a 5 speed you have everything you need , Id use all of the sensors from the blown up engine
Along with the intake and turbo elbow , if you like you could use that turbo if its good , You are golden , I biught mine for $1500 with 120K and a blown v 10
 
It's a bit more involved than that, especially if you want the gauges to work. I put a '95 12V in a '98 24V truck. Granted, it is a 47RE auto and I had to do a bit more than you will to make my transmission work. You won't have that problem with the manual.

You basically have to make the truck think the '93 engine is a '99 24V by using the 24V sensors. The sensors report to the ECM and the ECM works the gauges, so you'll probably have to run the 24V ECM. I did.

Motor mounts will be different. Cables will be different. You won't have cruise. You'll probably have to find radiator hoses. You'll need to wire the VE pump shutoff solenoid.

That should be about it.
 
Moist of the sensors ,temp ,and oil ,etc are the same ones and if you use the alternator from the 24V ( they hook up the same ) the tack drive is the same to from what i can tell
 
Tach signal on the '00, comes from the crank sensor. The sensors from my '95 would not work with the '98 gauges or ECM. I don't see how sensors on a VE engine would be the same as the 24V.
 
Why would they change all of the sending units ?
There is no logical reason why cummins would do so .
Dodge even for that same reason ,mouther mopar did not reinvent the wheel each model year for a temp or oil sensor
The charging system hooks up exactly the same ,plus he has the diesel already just as i have the v 10 you use the sending unuts from the others if there different .This is what Ford Cummins does too also the part numbvers are the same , look it up
 
I'm not trying to argue with you Donovan. I'm just telling him what I found when I put a '95 12V in a '98.5 24V truck.

I hate to break it to you but Cummins and Dodge change all kinds of things all the time. There are things like the 98.5 24V used 5v supply to the sensors, the '95 12V used 5v for some and 8v for others. I can't find anything on my '92.

Sensor part numbers change all the time. Here are Cummins part numbers on the sensors for my '95 12V, my 98.5 24V, and a friends '01 24V. The sensors are not only different, but there are parts that are used on one and not another like the ESS, Crank Sensor, Cam Sensor, ECM, and Engine Wiring Harness.

'95 12V
Intake Air Temp - 3918461
Coolant Temp - 3920363
Oil Pressure - 3933200 (Number has changed 3 times)
ESS - 3924432 (Number has changed 2 times)
Crank Sensor - N/A
Cam Sensor - N/A
MAP Sensor - N/A
ECM - N/A
Engine Wiring Harness - N/A

'98.5 24V
Intake Air Temp - 3408345 (Number has changed 3 times)
Coolant Temp - 4954905 (Number has changed 3 times)
Oil Pressure - 3408428 (Number has changed 3 times)
ESS - N/A
Crank Sensor - 4921601 (Number has changed 4 times)
Cam Sensor - 4921597 (Number has changed 5 times)
MAP Sensor - 4921497 (Number has changed 3 times)
ECM - 3942336 (Number has changed 2 times)
Engine Wiring Harness - 3944846 (Number has changed 3 times)

'01 24V
Intake Air Temp - 3408345, same as 98.5 (Number has changed 3 times)
Coolant Temp - 4954905, same as 98.5 (Number has changed 3 times)
Oil Pressure - 3408428, same as 98.5 (Number has changed 3 times)
ESS - N/A
Crank Sensor - N/A
Cam Sensor - 4921597, same as 98.5 (Number has changed 5 times)
MAP Sensor - 4921505 (Number has changed 2 times)
ECM - 3946242 (Number has changed 2 times)
Engine Wiring Harness - 3946666 (Number has changed 2 times)

Look it up.
 
I did look up on napa web site ,im sure there might be a check bengine light come on take the bulb out , Im going to put the 92 in my 98 and use the v10 sending units the vtack on that runs off the harmonic sensor on the front bhas 3 wires just the same as the v 10 has only thing that i need to figure out is what wire to splice into to power the pump . Autoworld MT in Montana put a 4 bt in a v10 truck with no issues so there is ca source to call and really the guage dont care were it gets a signal from ,and i guess if he wanted to get real fancy he could put half the 24v parts on the 12 v block and go with it
 
This is true. I pulled the bulb on mine. The "Check Gauges" light still works when voltage or oil pressure is low or if coolant temp is too high.
 
Well guys I started pulling the motor out of the 2000 today and was reminded why I'm so anal about keeping my engine bay and underside of my truck clean! I did notice (because I was curious) that it has a NV5600? Transmission in it. Is that as good or better than the NV4500? I hope so.
 
Hey Big Papa,

That is some good info that you shared ! Just saved it. I have a 2002 5.9 , 260 HP / Allison 5 speed I bought out of a wrecked Ambulance. Looking to install into one of my 48 509 Diamond Ts. Think I might try a 12 valve Cummins install first. Seems to a whole lot less complicated with out all the sensers, pcm's, ecm's and sort. Thanx for sharing
 
Lucky score a truck with a 6 speed , im still debating on the best way to get the engine in the truck on mine plus waiting on new mounts as my rubber is bad on mine
 
Do i have to remove the transmission just to take the motor out? Ive took all the bolts out of the transmission do i need to slide it back or anything? I hate to wrestle that heavy sucker if i don't have to because im doing this in my garage and by myself. Any pointers?
 
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