Brake Fluid(s) !!!!!

[seafish]

Firstly-- a simple question...exactly how MUCH brake fluid is necessary for a full brake system flush and fluid replacement on a 3rd gen.

In short, is 1 liter enough for a full fluid exchange??



Secondly, below is a link to an EXCELLENT chart, and below the chart, EXCELLENT general info on brake fluids.

NOTE: that the subject headings on the CHART can be sorted from low to high or high to low by clicking in the arrows next to the heading-- VERY useful!!!!

Another interesting note: an INSURANCE company that seems to insure Porsches, and other high performance vehicles, put this info together...LOL!!!


https://www.lelandwest.com/brake-fluid-comparison-chart.cfm?startRow=1&SF=4&ST=2

 

[MichaelOverfield]

1 liter won't be enough for a flush. To drain the resivior and refill you will need close to a liter. Once you start flushing the lines, expect at least one more liter. Also, with ABS you really need to be able to cycle the ABS module​, that requires a suitable computer interface. Short of cycling the module just a drain and refill helps, but it leaves considerable old fluid in the system.

 

[seafish]

Thanks...then I'll be getting two liters of the Castrol React SRF. It is a DOT 4 synthetic compatible with 3/4 and 5.1 fluids. It has a MUCH higher Wet (518*) and Dry (608*) BP then other fluids, and it is substantially less hygroscopic then other fluids. Of course that comes at a cost ($60 per liter) but I have always felt that spending money for high quality crucial safety parts (ie tires and brakes) is well worth it when driving an 8000# tow vehicle.

Also going to borrow a freinds Autoenginuity module that can activate ABS system for bleeding.

 

[Bob4x4]

The master does not hold a liter.With a stand alone flush machine a liter is a hair short.

 

[BigPapa]

two liters of the Castrol React SRF......Of course that comes at a cost ($60 per liter)

That's crazy. You can buy a half liter of Motul 600 for less than $20.00 and I dare say there aren't many, if any, brake fluids better than it.

 

[seafish]

That's crazy. You can buy a half liter of Motul 600 for less than $20.00 and I dare say there aren't many, if any, brake fluids better than it.

That's crazy. You can buy a half liter of Motul 600 for less than $20.00 and I dare say there aren't many, if any, brake fluids better than it.

Spendy, yes, crazy, no. TWO half liters of the Motul 600 is $40, but ONE liter of the SRF is $60 delivered to my door and the Castrol does in fact have a wet boiling point that is over 100*F more then the Motul 600 and is also reputedly is less hygroscopic (based on its synthetic esteric compounds) , BOTH of which are advantages in my mind.




Please know that I am NOT arguing that the Motul 600 is not an excellent brake fluid. In fact, I have been extreemly happy with the ATE super blue brake fluid that I put in 4 years ago at my last flush and even that costs only $26/ liter at most. But I DO like to upgrade and modify my truck, and it DOES weigh and tow heavy ALOT, and for the same reason that I put only MIchelin or Toyo tires on it at a SUBSTANTIAL cost over Hankook or any other "off brand" tires, I am just as willing to spend more on brake safety and longevity. Is it all in my head?? Sure, maybe...I mean as the article I posted readily points, most ALL of the available brake fluids are made at the same factory. But the Castrol is NOT and it DOES in fact have MUCH better boiling point specs as well as a stellar reputation (just like the Motul does) and I am likely going to use it. Will it make a differnce in stopping power...no way, but will it it operate better in high heat braking condtions and go out longer without need for a total flush?? Absolutely, and that is the way I prefer to do things on my truck.




If you have not yet read the article, think about doing so...FYI-- it is NOT pushing the Castrol SRF or any other brake fluid...it is simply an interesting and well researched article that some one who works for an insurance companny wrote to be informative and factual. In fact, I think it would be a great idea for it to be reprinted in TDR magazine as I think it is JUST the type of article that many of us are interested in reading. CHeck it out, the link is in my first post.




Just my .02

 

[seafish]

Thanks Bob4x4...I do appreciate the answer to my question.

 

[BigPapa]

Sorry fish. Didn't mean to get your back up.

Of course, you can run whatever fluid you want and spend your money any way you want. I was just trying to point out that there is a brake fluid out there that FAR exceeds our specs that's a lot less expensive than what you stated.

However you want to figure it, your paying $120 for two liters of Castrol and you can buy two liters of the Motul, delivered to your door, for $80. $40 savings of of $120 is a lot to me.

As to your boiling point figures, yes, the WET boiling point of the SRF is 117*F higher than the Motul. The wet boiling point is measured by humidifying
the product with about 3.5% of water. The dry boiling point, pure brake fluid, is only 14*F higher than the Motul. Again, both fluids FAR exceed the specs for our trucks.

Again, your truck, use what you want.

 

[K5IP]

I too plan to change the brake fluid on my 03. Is there a way to cycle the brake module without any fancy equipment?



Also, I usually bleed the lines by pulling fluid through with a small vacuum pump, but someone told me this should not be done on our trucks. Is this true?

 

[jelag]

So I have to add my 2 cents worth here... I've always used and off the shelf brake fluid.... and once every 2 years usually in the fall I purchase several quarts.... I like the quarts because of the ease of handling.... I fill the reservoir with fluid, start at the longest line and attach my vacuum pump and a qt jar... I pull the brake fluid through until I get clean fluid.... and proceed to the next longest line, each time checking the reservoir.....



Remember that your allowing fresh fluid into each caliper and your venting the caliper from the top, so you will never get all the dirty fluid out unless you remove the caliper and flush it.... I frankly don't do that... I do inspect the boot around the piston... and if there's a problem I do go and repair the caliper... dirt behind the boot will allow the piston not to retract as needed.... I was taught this method maybe 45 years ago..... and it's served me well over the years.... so I guess I'm set in my ways.... my thought is that if you flush/bleed every 2 years or so.... and bleed off all the dirty fluid when you replace the pads.... by pushing out the old fluid.... you'll be just fine.. and for me its worked... nothing special... just regular maintenance...

 

[Bob4x4]

I too plan to change the brake fluid on my 03. Is there a way to cycle the brake module without any fancy equipment?



Also, I usually bleed the lines by pulling fluid through with a small vacuum pump, but someone told me this should not be done on our trucks. Is this true?

If you did not have any air upsteam of the abs there is no need,vacuum bleeding will be fine

 

[Motorhead]

Seafish, When I did the fluid change in my '07 last year, I used about 2 quarts of fluid. I have one of those throttle setting tools that looks like a caulking gun but has the long rod to push the throttle. Anyway, I used the tool to hold the brake pedal down enough to close off the return ports in the master cylinder. I then pulled the right rear wheel, opened the bleeder and pushed the brake pads against the pistons to retract them and remove the fluid from each piston cavity. I then removed the holding tool and pumped back up the brake caliper. I did this a few times on each wheel. This insured a good flush and exercised each caliper in its bore. I have seen a few trucks with frozen rear calipers because the pads last so long.

 

[seafish]

Seafish, When I did the fluid change in my '07 last year, I used about 2 quarts of fluid. I have one of those throttle setting tools that looks like a caulking gun but has the long rod to push the throttle. Anyway, I used the tool to hold the brake pedal down enough to close off the return ports in the master cylinder. I then pulled the right rear wheel, opened the bleeder and pushed the brake pads against the pistons to retract them and remove the fluid from each piston cavity. I then removed the holding tool and pumped back up the brake caliper. I did this a few times on each wheel. This insured a good flush and exercised each caliper in its bore. I have seen a few trucks with frozen rear calipers because the pads last so long.

Chris, many years ago, when I installed a Brakesmart controller on my truck, I needed to bleed the brakes because I had forgotten to tighten the threads on the flare fitting fully before pumping the brakes a couple times. I was working by myself, so I used a piece of steel rod and the power seat adjustment on the driver seat to bleed the brakes solo. I would pump the brake a few times by hand, then engage the seat up against the pedal until it was holding pressure, then run around and open and close the bleed screws. It worked, though a little time consuming, and I felt pretty good about figuring out a way how to finish the install by myself and get the truck up and driving properly, despite the "small" mistake I had made. After that, though, I decided it was time to invest in a motive pressure bleeder, and I have to tell you, it makes a full flush REALLY quick and easy. I bought the kit with various MC caps so it can be used with the different vehicles that we drive.

I also loosen the bleed screw at each caliper before pushing the cylinders back in to get the dirtiest fluid out first when changing pads.

Thanks for your .02

 

[Boaring1961]

Anyone try these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCOBQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed them last year and they seem to work great. Let me know if there are any other opinions on them.

Thanks

 

[seafish]

Anyone try these?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000CPCOBQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I installed them last year and they seem to work great. Let me know if there are any other opinions on them.

Thanks

Thanks for the reimnder!! !I have been meaning to put Speed Bleeders on *the truck and now will be a good timt to do beofre I do the flush.

Are those in the Amazon link the actual ones that fit our 3rd gen trucks ??

 

[Boaring1961]

The speed bleeders in the link are the ones I bought and installed on my truck. Not sure what years they fit.

 

[seafish]

The speed bleeders in the link are the ones I bought and installed on my truck. Not sure what years they fit.

Well since we have the same year truck, I going to order a set right now. Thanks again.*