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Front wheel bearings repair?

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I only have 67,000 miles on the OD it is a 08, 2500 Mega Cab 4X4. I have had a 4X4 vehicle since 1974 and three of them have been Jeeps or the Ram truck. My other 4X4 vehicle’s where a Ford Explore 1992 that Turned Turtle, a Chevy pick-up truck and Chevy Blazer. My sons have all had 4X4’s either Jeeps, Fords, Chevy’s or Ram trucks.



This is the first time I ever had an issue with the front end other then shimmy to the front wheels do to worn out front steering stabilizers on the Jeeps, stock size tires and rims. The Jeeps were full size Cherokee’s with the solid axles similar to the Ram trucks. I use to take the front hubs apart and repack the wheel brg’s every 12,000 miles. So I know what a good and bearing that is starting to fail looks and sounds like.



I have checked the front u-joints for wear and looseness on both sides. They are tight but the needle brg's could just starting to go bad. This is why when the truck gets up on the lift I will be looking at the u-joints again before replacing the unit wheel brg’s. Usually the u-joints will squeak either under load or not under load when subject to movement such as the front wheels being turned. When I apply the throttle pedal to the engine to apply power to the drive train there is no noise emulating from the front wheels. When I go to turn there is a slight low squeak at or below 5 MPH not under load; faster than 5 MPH then there is no noise. So the truck is on limited disability and only used if the Jetta is not available until I can get it fix.



Jim W.



That sounds like a dry cross for sure.



Just for reference I replaced both front axle u-joints on the '06 at 67,000 miles. Now at 130,000 miles I can hear a snap when in 4WD on soft ground. Last time that I greased the truck it only seeped out of three of the four seals on the LH u-joint so I'm pretty sure I know where the snap is coming from... .



Mike.
 
Where the cross meets the caps, do you have red dust? If you do, the u-joints are dry and shot. If you don't, they may still be dry and shot.
 
Up date to all that have responded.

It is the LH front U-joint that is bad (driver side). I was able to get the truck up on a lift last night and was able to check the u-joints; just one cap is bad no dust and no red coloring of any type. But did use a pry bar on each cap and one moved about an 1/16 inch. I will be changing both front u-joint out next month.

Thanks again for the help and advice.

Jim W.
 
So has anyone drilled and installed a zert onto a replacement unit? I am getting the same growl when turned full lock in parking lots, but there is no play anywhere else.



I drilled and tapped the bearings on my 98 a few years ago while I had them out. After 8-10 pumps while spinning the bearing they became noticeably quieter. After 12 years what little grease was put in them at assembly was probably about gone, especially once the seals start weeping a little.
 
Drill or source the ABS hold down bolt and put in a 90 zerk pointend to the rear. A hole drilled in the backing plate will allow access.



Found out the ABS sensor hold-down bolt is only available from the dealer in a package along with the sensor/wire harness/associated hardware (for approx $85). Does anybody know the size/thread count of that bolt?



Steve
 
Found out the ABS sensor hold-down bolt is only available from the dealer in a package along with the sensor/wire harness/associated hardware (for approx $85). Does anybody know the size/thread count of that bolt?

Steve

Pls. clarify... are you referring to drilling the hold down bolt & tapping it [1/16" NPT] for installing Zerk fitting? Why need another bolt? Can't/shouldn't drill/tap OEM bolt? Care to share a pic? I've had 2 frt brg units replaced, and like others, feel I'm on borrowed time?!?
 
the ABS sensor and its bolt are available... . the allen head cap screw (bolt) is metric on my truck (05) and can be purchased anyplace who had a good assortment of fasteners... The sensor is available from Rockauto.com and as I remember was something like $15. 00...
 
Again, Pls. clarify... are you referring to drilling the hold down bolt & tapping it [1/16" NPT] for installing Zerk fitting? Why need another bolt? Can't/shouldn't drill/tap OEM bolt? Care to share a pic? Why should I be concerned about my ABS sensor & bolt?
 
Again, Pls. clarify... are you referring to drilling the hold down bolt & tapping it [1/16" NPT] for installing Zerk fitting? Why need another bolt? Can't/shouldn't drill/tap OEM bolt? Care to share a pic? Why should I be concerned about my ABS sensor & bolt?

Reason for looking for the info for the bolt is so I can drill/tap two each of them ahead of time, and have them ready to install when I next take the wheels/rotors off. I've greased the bearings through the sensor hole since my truck was new, and plan to continue so for as long as I own it. So far, so good as regards both hubs' performance.

Steve
 
Reason for looking for the info for the bolt is so I can drill/tap two each of them ahead of time, and have them ready to install when I next take the wheels/rotors off. I've greased the bearings through the sensor hole since my truck was new, and plan to continue so for as long as I own it. So far, so good as regards both hubs' performance.

Steve

Posting this again. Does anybody know the bolt's size/thread pitch?

Steve
 
So has anyone drilled and installed a zert onto a replacement unit? I am getting the same growl when turned full lock in parking lots, but there is no play anywhere else.



I had done that to all my Dodges. Only had one wheel bearing go bad, none of the units that I lubed ever failed.
 
Jim,
I'm a new member here and would appreciate the 5 page "unit bearing" removal/install information. It can be sent to: -- email address removed -- (I currently own an 05 and a 06, so lots to keep up with). Thanks Jim and if I posted this wrong, please understand.
 
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Jim,
I'm a new member here and would appreciate the 5 page "unit bearing" removal/install information. It can be sent to: -- email address removed -- (I currently own an 05 and a 06, so lots to keep up with). Thanks Jim and if I posted this wrong, please understand.

Welcome to the forum.
I did not have to replace the front unit wheel bearings; what went bad was the u-joint spider going to the LH front wheel. I was pressed for time and being lazy that week; I took the truck to a local service garage that I have dealt with on and off for several years. They did the work for $435 which included parts and labor. Also I did not have to lay on cold concrete floor and work in a cold garage to do this work so the price was worth it to me.

Jim W.
 
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Welcome to TDR, my preference is the Dyna-trac.

Ditto here. Just had them installed.
I can't fathom how surrounding a sealed bearing with grease enables the lubricant to migrate into the bearing.
I've read many accounts of it but i just don't see the logic.
 
I believe the term "sealed" refers to the entire assy., not the bearings within the hub housing. Puttin' lube in there would be identical to adding grease to a boat trailer hub, centrifugal force forces it out to wherever it can go.
 
Ditto here. Just had them installed.
I can't fathom how surrounding a sealed bearing with grease enables the lubricant to migrate into the bearing.
I've read many accounts of it but i just don't see the logic.

The bearings are only "sealed" in the sense that you can't access them. They are not hermetically sealed inside the hub. You can see from this video how any grease injected into the sensor hole will work itself into the bearings:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ksnVuZ5P2Y0
 
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