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Warming Up My 6.7 In Cold Weather

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Front and rear differential covers and fluid recommendations

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I thought in cold weather the new trucks like my 2015 automagically idle on the exhaust brake. Mine seems to anyway. The Banks brake on my 2001.5 also did this automagically.

SnoKing

Yes they do, mine does if it's below a certain temp which right now it most certainly is!!!!!:mad:
-35 C/-31F with a -42C/-41F windchill this morning and for a few days right now.
You can hear it cycle the brake on and off while on high idle, automatically while in remote start mode and with normal starting as well.
 
I thought in cold weather the new trucks like my 2015 automagically idle on the exhaust brake. Mine seems to anyway. The Banks brake on my 2001.5 also did this automagically.

SnoKing

Mine does as well. I can clearly hear when the exhaust brake kicks on and the engine tone gets deeper and louder. As soon as you hit the brake pedal the exhaust brake stops though. I usually turn my tow/haul and EB on as soon as I start the truck anyways.
 
Mine does as well. I can clearly hear when the exhaust brake kicks on and the engine tone gets deeper and louder. As soon as you hit the brake pedal the exhaust brake stops though. I usually turn my tow/haul and EB on as soon as I start the truck anyways.

So does it come on automatically or because you hit the button right at start up?

It may be something FCA changed in their programming on newer models but I can say for certain my EB will not kick on unless I hit the EB button. High idle only.
Coldest temps I've seen so far this year is -17F.
 
Mine does as well. I can clearly hear when the exhaust brake kicks on and the engine tone gets deeper and louder. As soon as you hit the brake pedal the exhaust brake stops though. I usually turn my tow/haul and EB on as soon as I start the truck anyways.

Well at a stop light with my foot on the brake with a cold engine it comes on until the engine warms.
 
So does it come on automatically or because you hit the button right at start up?

It may be something FCA changed in their programming on newer models but I can say for certain my EB will not kick on unless I hit the EB button. High idle only.
Coldest temps I've seen so far this year is -17F.

Sorry, my post was confusing. When it is cold enough (and I don't know the temperature, but it sure isn't as cold as -17F!!!) the exhaust brake automatically comes on when I start the truck. I can hear it within a second or two of the engine starting.

As a general rule I turn the tow/haul and EB on prior to driving, but in cold weather the EB automatically engages without any input from me and without illuminating the EB light in the dash.
 
Well at a stop light with my foot on the brake with a cold engine it comes on until the engine warms.

Now that I think about it, you are right... mine does that too when its still trying to heat up. Maybe it shuts off the EB when brake is pressed in park, but allows it when brake is pressed in gear? I don't know.
 
Well I just played with the exhaust brake, and as others said it is dependent on the brake being in full or auto. It does come on at stop lights while in gear with my foot on the brake. Sorry about the confusion earlier. Snoking

I'll have to check if the EB sets itself. I should normally be able to hear it. One other issue I sometimes see on cold mornings is that when I first press the button to crank it, I do not get the delay and see the glow coil light. It just cranks right up as if I had been driving it and it is warmed up. But the engine is still cold - no preheat. Strange.
 
We had 17 degrees this morning in Rosenberg which hasn't happened they say since 1996. I can attest to the fact the exhaust brake comes on automatically shortly after the RPMs ramp up (I used remote start to start it) as evidenced by my concerned neighbor knocking on my door asking if my truck had developed engine problems. There was no doubt the exhaust brake was active (and the engine automatically climbed to 1000-1200 RPMs, based upon the sound and the tachometer, until I climbed in and pressed the brake. A huge improvement over the 2001 and 2004 I owned in Alaska!
 
Sounds like "remote start" is a recipe for excess soot and oil dilution of the sump? Seems like there might be some "blow by" before the pistons and cylinders get hot enough (expand enough) for a perfect seal around the rings?
 
Sounds like "remote start" is a recipe for excess soot and oil dilution of the sump? Seems like there might be some "blow by" before the pistons and cylinders get hot enough (expand enough) for a perfect seal around the rings?



No, you're overthinking it. Stop.
 
Sounds like "remote start" is a recipe for excess soot and oil dilution of the sump? Seems like there might be some "blow by" before the pistons and cylinders get hot enough (expand enough) for a perfect seal around the rings?

Only if one is fool enough to let it idle like a gas engine for an extended length of time. I have always remote started my diesels while living in Alaska going back to my 2004, and never had a problem simply because I'd start it up as I was putting on my boots - not when I was getting ready to jump in the shower. Two or three minutes don't present an issue...idling a diesel for fifteen minutes like my neighbor does his Hemi could definitely have issues. Additionally, the added advantage of both automatically increasing RPMs and exhaust brake activation when remote started caused the engine to warm up much, much faster than my earlier diesels thus soot and dilution is much less worrisome than pushing a cold engine immediately down the highway at 65.
 
I am in Texas and even at 8 or 0 when going to the ranch north of Pecos I just start it and let it idle or 1200 rpm just running slow till I get to the main road about 500 yards. Then slowly take it to 45 for a couple or miles. Do not really do anything on the highway till the 122 oil temp changes. Water temp at that point is about 156 but water temp goes up and down on a cold motor--up to 194 the open thermostat down to 178 lol. Does this a couple of times and eventually runs around 192-194 water and 199 to 205 oil on the highway at 85-100 for extended times (hour) even at 15 degrees ambient.



Slow to 60 --- temps fall like a rock to 186-188 water and 178 to 190 oil.
 
:confused: I'm just a little confused. I hope that this doesn't hog the thread, but I used to idle my older Cummins duallys until the pre turbo temp was below 300 as recommended. I really can't do that with my 2011 as it would take awhile, so I wait until the pre turbo temp is below 400. On one hand, idleing is bad we know this, but on the other hand should we still be concerned with the turbo temps?? I got down to 23 here in north Florida and plugging the truck in was still a good idea in my opinion, but the turbo temp thing causes a pause. Sorry for the question, but this inquiring mind would like to know. Thanks
 
I always idled my HO 11 after pulling for around 5 minutes but NEVER after just driving around. Same with my 15. Excellent Blackstone reports from each engine.
 
On one hand, idleing is bad we know this, but on the other hand should we still be concerned with the turbo temps??

The turbo has its own oil to keep it cooled, so it is less likely to burn up. Generally I find that by the time I get off the highway and into a gas station or campground with my camper, the temps have dropped enough to be safe. I wouldn't race up a hill under load and get the turbo hot and then immediately shut it off... but it seems that just a couple minutes of lower speed driving is sufficient to cool it down.
 
Okay. So I get it now. Just start it after pre-ignition warmup, then let it idle a few minutes, then drive on without racing. It's only gotten to the mid to low 20s the last few days. I only had one instance that it went directly to running engine rather than do a pre-ignition preheat which to me was very odd.
 
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