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2006 5.9, Oil Coming Out of Valve Cover Vent Hose

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Water-In-Fuel (WIF) light frequency ?

New injectors bad mileage

After long hiatus I figured I post an issue with my 2006.

Today I noticed oil on the underside of the truck on the left side all the way to the U-haul trailer I was towing. My truck doesn’t leak any fluid with just 64k miles she is in great condition so I was horrified when I saw oil.

Got on a creeper and checked under the engine and immediately found where the source of the oil leak. The oil is coming from the valve cover vent hose. What cause the oil to come out of the vent hose? The engine runs like normal and no funny noise. Any ideas?
 
sounds weird how about blowby take off the oil fill cap while running and see if there is any pressure there.
 
When checking for blow by with the oil fill cap removed and the engine running, how much air is coming out of the fill cap is normal and how much too much? By blow by at just 64k miles?
 
Turn the oil cap over and run it up to about 1200 rpms and see of the cap blows off. It will want to vibrate off so you have to hold it in position but the pressure should never pick it up.

It doesn't matter how many miles oyu have if it breaks a ring on a piston. The 06's had some bad injector batches so it is not unheard of you got a bad one this soon.
 
High miles with an oiled element air filter often causes "dust-out" meaning the dust ingested into the engine has compromised ring seal, causing blow-by and oil coming out the vent tube. I don't know if that is your situation, of course.
Hey, Juanita, are you coming to the 20th May Madness this year? We expect a lot of Cummins and Ram participation, making it a very interesting one.
 
Oil level is fine just above the "add" on the checkered area. I'm also sending my oil to Blackstone Lab and last time the report came back with normal "fuel in oil" reading. Of course the injector body could have cracked after the oil sample. I'm still in the process of reinvestigating to see if it really is coming from the vent tube. Reason I say that is now I see oil in the front differential which is forward of of the vent tube. So I'm beginning to think it's not coming from the vent tube at all. After church tomorrow I'll get on the creeper and check again thoroughly with w bright flashlight.

Joe, as much as my wife and I would like to attend MM as we always have fun, we don't have anybody to attend to our 7 year old. My oldest son joined the Army 3 years ago and my middle son went to college so no baby sitter.:mad:
 
Found the source of the oil leak.

I got on the creeper today and investigated further where the oil leak was coming from. What I thought was engine oil leaking from the valve cover breather hose, it was differential oil leaking from the front differential cause by loose and missing bolts on the cover. Every bolt was loose, one almost came out and two bolts are missing. Pics below will tell the story. I must not have tighten the allen bolts enough when I installed the Mag-Hytec cover 5 years ago and over time it worked loose.

I'm just thankful to God it was a blow by which would have been costly to fix. Thank you all for all the suggestions.


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X2...Red loctite is your friend!!!
Are you SURE you meant to say RED Locktite? That's the permanent one for studs and bearings. It requires heating to 500 degrees F to break the bond, otherwise the threads will be ruined if you try to unscrew the bolt - as in the threads will come off either the bolt or the material they're bolted into. For most automotive use, folks should use the blue (medium strength), purple (most versatile, can be used on brass or aluminum as well), or green (for pre-assembled fasteners). More details here: http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/the-difference-between-red-blue-green-and-purple-threadlockers/
 
Bill, I am speaking from my experience of having used red loctite on fasteners on all sorts of machinery and equipment that needed some sort of loctite, and I have NEVER had a problem taking them apart again without using heat.

Now just MAYBE I am using it wrong (clean the threads on both pieces with acetone when it is a critical component and then apply a small ring of red loctite to male threads) but for me it works great on all sorts of sized fasteners and I have NO problem taking it apart with regular wrenches when necessary. Maybe I am stronger then you ?? JK/LOL!!!

That being said have you ever tried using it, to do you just believe the hype...after all it is simply an adhesive like polymer meant to prevent vibrations from causing movement of fasteners... it is NOT an epoxy or glue.
 
Bill, I am speaking from my experience of having used red loctite on fasteners on all sorts of machinery and equipment that needed some sort of loctite, and I have NEVER had a problem taking them apart again without using heat.

Now just MAYBE I am using it wrong (clean the threads on both pieces with acetone when it is a critical component and then apply a small ring of red loctite to male threads) but for me it works great on all sorts of sized fasteners and I have NO problem taking it apart with regular wrenches when necessary. Maybe I am stronger then you ?? JK/LOL!!!

That being said have you ever tried using it, to do you just believe the hype...after all it is simply an adhesive like polymer meant to prevent vibrations from causing movement of fasteners... it is NOT an epoxy or glue.

Do I just believe the hype? Well, when it comes from the company that makes it, versus some unknown (to me) on the web ... yeah, pretty much. If you follow the link I included, you'll see it actually is what the manufacturer states. Then again, maybe it's coming apart on you because you're NOT cleaning it properly, and it isn't working as designed. Just a wild guess on my part, mind you.

I'm a bit touchy on this subject because, believe it or not, there are some folks on the web who will tell neophytes to use something totally inappropriate, I guess in order to "teach them a lesson about doing their research". Again, just a guess on my part, but I do see that happen. Not trying to say it's what you were doing, mind you - all I'm saying is that what you posted goes against what the manufacturer themselves say the products are intended for.
Have a great day!
 
OK...well maybe "hype" was the wrong word to use for manufacture instructions, though often those CAN at times be full of hype in order to allow the manufacture to sell more product, eh??

That being said, and though you don't know me at all, I am in fact a competent mechanic with a fair bit of admittedly self learned, but also extensive wrenching skills. I work on all my vehicles, which include an old diesel bulldozer, a diesel loader backhoe, a gas 4x4 forklift, a diesel Jeep 4x4, a Toyota 4x4 pick up that I convert to a flatbed ranch truck, and of course my real fetish, an awesome 2005 Cummins powered Dodge Ram 4x4 truck fairly well modified. I also own run a small but thorough woodoworking shop FULL of vibrating machinery that always needs maintenance and sometimes repairs.

And from my experience(s), I can HONESTLY say that I ONLY use RED Loctite (despite maufaturesr suggestions otherwise) and I have NEVER had ANY problem removing a fastener later using ONLY torque and ZERO "required" heat.

Now, like I said, maybe I am applying it wrong, but I say this mostly in jest as in fact I DO understand the importance of using ANY type of fasteners ONLY on clean surfaces. If the threaded parts I am working on are at all dirty or oily, I properly clean them (both male an female) with appropriate brushes and/or swabs and often est Acetone as a solvent as it is an extremely effective and fast drying solvent!!! I then apply the correct amount of RED loctite, wait a minute or so, and then tighten the fastenr. If there is something wrong with my technique, then I really don't know what it is.

So here is an interesting idea for you... why don't you try it yourself on a brand new regular 1/2" fastener of your choice placed in your vise (rather then something important on your truck.) After properly cleaning the fastener and applying RED loctite per manufacturers instructions, try to loosen the fastener, say after a week or?? If you CANNOT remove the fastener a week later with out adding heat, then post back here, or PM me, and I'll gladly send you $20 PayPal or cash for your expense, trouble and efforts to do the test.
If you CAN in fact remove the fastener WITHOUT heat, and without undue stress on your vice or wrench or arm, then just post back here and we'll be even and you'll have some red Loctite that you can use whenever and wherever YOU think you might want and/or need to instead of simply following manufacturers reccomendations.

Maybe we can BOTH learn something that we already think we know, eh??

Just my .02
 
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