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u-joint help

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I'm looking to do all the u-joints and carrier bearing. I have a little confusion on the u-joints, are there two different joints or all three the same? can anyone provide the correct part numbers please? Rock auto has the moogs and Dana. My truck is a 2006 2500 4x4 A/T two piece shaft. Thanks for the help, I'm probably overthinking this.
 
Is the Spicer 5-3207X the correct joint? It seems to have the correct dimensions, but it says its not applicable for my model year.
 
Well, seems an easy question but it isn't.......

Let me tell you about my odyssey with the rear drivshafts U-Joints.

It started 2013 with a worn out rear U-J, was traveling and had to use a workshop, didn't do it myself as usual.
The Workshop installed the Moog Version of the 1415 OEM U-J - it did not fit, the mechanic had to sand down the cups by 0.1mm! to make the rings go nice into their grooves. So it worked for a couple years.

Last year I decided to make an overhaul of the driveshaft myself because I didn't felt comfortable with that Moog, also it was greasable that I don't like either.

So I ordered 3x the Spicer 5-3207X that is recommended as a 1=1 to the 1415 AAM, but what happend? It isn't!
The 5-3207X, the body of that U-J is also 0.2mm to big, the rings didn't slide into their grooves, at that point i was mildly angry, measured everything, but in conclusion the U-J body is to big.

For the next attempt I ordered some OEM AAM 1415, also 3 because I want to have a spare with me, and on goes the Story.
Guess what? Even the AAMs didn't fit, same problem, 0.2mm to big - rings didn't slide into their grooves.
To say that clear - the AAM 1415 U-J is larger than the specification from AAM itself!!

And just to clarify - I do not have bent ears on my jokes, they measure all perfect.
And I measured all U-J compressed in a vise with a digital sliding gauge.
All 3 Brands sell exactly the same wrong measurment - all of them just copied the wrong 1415 AAM Joint, so there is virtually non U-Joint on the market that really holds the Specifications by AAM.
MOOG is especially bold and just puts a plain 1410 U-J into the box with slightly thinner Rings and call it then 1415. (See below)

After two whole saturdays playing with that d... driveshaft and not willing to sand down some cups I went into another direction - I measured the rings of all my several U-J and found the MOOG Rings are slighly thinner, 1.4mm, then every others that are 1.5mm thick.

And so ends the Story - I have now the OEM AAM U-Joints installed in combination with the MOOG Rings. That was the only way to make that Crap work in the End.

Conclusion to me - buy new driveshaft with standard 1480 U-Joints and forget all about that money burning POS that came from the Factory.
I burnt so much money all that U-J buying and Time consuming work that it would have been cheaper to buy a whole new shaft.


Thats the story about my Driveshaft, you see, it is everything but easy.
 
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Well, seems an easy question but it isn't.......

Let me tell you about my odyssey with the rear drivshafts U-Joints.

It started 2013 with a worn out rear U-J, was traveling and had to use a workshop, didn't do it myself as usual.
The Workshop installed the Moog Version of the 1415 OEM U-J - it did not fit, the mechanic had to sand down the cups by 0.1mm! to make the rings go nice into their grooves. So it worked for a couple years.

Last year I decided to make an overhaul of the driveshaft myself because I didn't felt comfortable with that Moog, also it was greasable that I don't like either.

So I ordered 3x the Spicer 5-3207X that is recommended as a 1=1 to the 1415 AAM, but what happend? It isn't!
The 5-3207X, the body of that U-J is also 0.2mm to big, the rings didn't slide into their grooves, at that point i was mildly angry, measured everything, but in conclusion the U-J body is to big.

For the next attempt I ordered some OEM AAM 1415, also 3 because I want to have a spare with me, and on goes the Story.
Guess what? Even the AAMs didn't fit, same problem, 0.2mm to big - rings didn't slide into their grooves.
To say that clear - the AAM 1415 U-J is larger than the specification from AAM itself!!

And just to clarify - I do not have bent ears on my jokes, they measure all perfect.
And I measured all U-J compressed in a vise with a digital sliding gauge.
All 3 Brands sell exactly the same wrong measurment - all of them just copied the wrong 1415 AAM Joint, so there is virtually non U-Joint on the market that really holds the Specifications by AAM.
MOOG is especially bold and just puts a plain 1410 U-J into the box with slightly thinner Rings and call it then 1415. (See below)

After two whole saturdays playing with that d... driveshaft and not willing to sand down some cups I went into another direction - I measured the rings of all my several U-J and found the MOOG Rings are slighly thinner, 1.4mm, then every others that are 1.5mm thick.

And so ends the Story - I have now the OEM AAM U-Joints installed in combination with the MOOG Rings. That was the only way to make that Crap work in the End.

Conclusion to me - buy new driveshaft with standard 1480 U-Joints and forget all about that money burning POS that came from the Factory.
I burnt so much money all that U-J buying and Time consuming work that it would have been cheaper to buy a whole new shaft.


Thats the story about my Driveshaft, you see, it is everything but easy.


Thank you for that amazing story, I went through that frustration with the front shaft. I really hate to buy a shaft at the moment. Somebody has to have a success story on these things. It’s ridiculous that nothing fits them.
 
The other option is to eliminate the 2 piece driveline and move to a 2007+ one piece aluminum Mopar shaft (for my 2006 Megacab)

I found the best price from RockAuto for around $650 shipped. Part number 52123161AC.

I only had to pull the carrier frame bracket and my air bags keep the axle from compressing enough to make it touch the frame.

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(yes my exhaust has had a rough life: it fell off a couple times in the desert before I made the new hanger strap)
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We
Well that is possible if they changed the shafts design in 07.
But TO says the noted UJs measurements fits for him but Rockauto states it won't fit.
The 1485 is way bigger.
Well i guess I'll find out, i bought 3 of them and I'll be changing them out here pretty quick, mine is a 6 speed srandard too
 
Great link GCroyle, thanks for posting it.

The wasted money and heartache that these b.astard sized AAM joints have caused over the years is incalculable.

At least with the b.astard ball joints and T steering linkage Dodge has been punished with unnecessary warranty repairs and recalls and also had to spend $$$ trying to educate the dealership mechanics about the abnormal designs. Even so, I doubt the engineers making theses dumb decisions learned a darn thing from the debacle! "Hey, the FEA on the computer said it would work GRRRRRRREAT!" Good thing I'm not bitter about it thought, lol.

B.astard definition: 2: something that is spurious, irregular, inferior, or of questionable origin https://www.merriam-webster.com/dictionary/*******

So its a banned word? Really?
 
I've watched several of John's videos. He's a detailed explainer for sure. He went thru the Ford twin disc pass car trans and explained how it works. Then there is one about how a CVT belt is assembled. Good stuff.
 
The wasted money and heartache that these b.astard sized AAM joints have caused over the years is incalculable.

Add to that the 2 piece steel drive shafts that vibrate with the harmonics, the OE 1 piece aluminum that are not rated for the TQ still using the crappy AAM joint, and the flange on the rear diff that is a constant problem.
 
3/8 u-bolts like the GM rear ends use, not straps. The flange on the rear diff is poor design, bevel edge that is too shallow, tolerances too loose on the centering hub, then the flange ends up centering off the bolts instead of the hub and it will always be off because the bolt shoulders are not beveled.

If they would have done it like the front diff or the t-case front output it would have been fine but the current design and lack of QC on the flanges makes it a problem area for vibrations.
 
I was able to get my shaft rebuilt by a local driveline shop. They were able to get all OEM parts and they did it for a very fair price, I don't care what it cost because pressing U-joints is not my most favorite thing to do. Thanks for all the help.
 
Last time I had a shaft rebuilt by a driveline shop, it was actually cheaper than buying the parts myself.

Good to hear it is fixed and thank you for the update.
 
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