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Binding in front end when turning

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Noticed it a while ago after having it in 4wd and then back in 2wd would bind on sharp turns. Now it’s doing it a lot, nervous to drive it. Before I left for work the month of April I installed an adjustable track bar and had aligned. Shop said drivers side u joint looked suspect but still drivable. I can’t find any fault in either side u joint, ball joint or hub. Handles well. I want to fix it before it leaves me stranded. Any suggestions?
 
Truck has 305 70 17 terra grapplers as well. No irregular wear. I put it on jack stands and turned the wheel and was fine
 
U joints are really the only thing that can cause that feeling in a turn or the transfer case has not fully disengaged and the truck is actually in 4 wd.
 
If you can get both front wheels off the ground safely, do this.
Spin each wheel with steering pointed straight ahead. Any bind?
Now
Turn the steering about 1/2 way to lock. Now spin each wheel. Any bind now? Betcha there is. If so, you need stub U joints.
 
I appreciate the replies. Truck is on jack stands and I have turned the wheel 1/2 lock both sides, full lock and dead on and tires spin freely with zero resistance. The u joints in it are greasable. The last two dodge rams I’ve had have had the original sealed u joints and were factory when they were sold with over 200k+ this truck has 245k and according to the service log u joints were done at 175k, but I’m not so sure it’s the u joints
 
If they are greasable try pumping grease into them until it purges out of all four caps. Make there is not a cap plugged up that is dry and not taking grease.
 
I appreciate the replies. Truck is on jack stands and I have turned the wheel 1/2 lock both sides, full lock and dead on and tires spin freely with zero resistance.

At this point I would suggest that you get a pry bar in on the axle shaft u joints by the wheel and look and feel for play while you jimmy the ears and cross shaft around with the pry bar.
 
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Did you try a small pry bar behind one of the axle shaft ears?

Take a look at the 4:00 mark of this video.

 
Thanks for the help they popped out with out much fuss. Trying to find sealed joints is near impossible though, not impressed w greasable units
 
Call 8Lug Truck...they are familiar with and carry ALL of the different available Spicer u joints for our 3rd gen trucks and can help you pick the CORRECT one based on MY as well as other factors!!! ...quick shipping and superb customer service as well IMO!!! AT least they did that for me when I did mine.
 
Thanks seafish, I found two spicer units at a car quest not too far away. Will save that contact though. On an unrelated note while taking apart the passengers side the lower bolt on the caliper mounting bracket had a rounded head. I had to get creative to get it out it was torqued something ungodly but got it. I can’t seem to find a part # for it, I thought the parts store had it but was the wrong size. I’ll go to the dealer just to get this buttoned up, thanks
 
So what’s the verdict? What did you find? The rounded off bolt is a scary thing. Makes you wonder who was in there. Be sure to get the proper bolt!
I have used 8 lug, I believe they had a nice Father’s Day sale a couple years ago. I got my Dyna Trac ball joints and some related stuff. They were good to me.
 
Thanks for all help and responses. I did get the correct bolt from local dealer, $8 and change. The u joints were definitely shot upon removal and inspection, 3 out of the four caps were dry. According to the running service log that came with the truck the greasable units just made it over 50k. Hopefully these spicers will last longer. I’ve had good luck with the factory units on the 99 and 01
 
Greasable just don’t seem to last as long in these trucks.

OEM joints are what I always recommend, and ran.

Several of the local service shops don’t even stock anything but the OEM AAM joints for them due to lack of life on the others.
 
Greasable just don’t seem to last as long in these trucks.

OEM joints are what I always recommend, and ran.

Several of the local service shops don’t even stock anything but the OEM AAM joints for them due to lack of life on the others.

I have thought for awhile now that the mode of failure on greasable u joints might be that without a VERY aggressive grease schedule, as the grease in the caps dries out or is contaminated or even exits (due to the poorer seal quality on the greasable joints), it restricts the flow of new grease to the dried areas (in other words, the areas that need it most) and thus the grease being applied flows only to the cap(s) that are not yet dried (path of least resistance)...thus leading to the failure of the entire joint. Just my .02
 
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