Spyntec or Yukon free spinning hubs?

[RVTRKN]

The spindle has threads that you bolt to the knuckle, instead of the traditional nut and bolt configuration. The instructions even ask you to shorten (cut) the four original mounting bolts that bolted the unit bearing, due to length. The second picture, you see the spindle side of it.

 

[Wayne M.]

This issue above is no big deal. I don’t know of any OEM hub bearing that is drilled through and nut/ bolted. The material the spindle mine was made of seemed of high enough quality to not be a concern. I’ve been under there repeatedly checking torques for settling, etc, and never had a problem. I’ve even had them apart once to repack (water intrusion concerns). I would surely do my kit again to another truck.

 

[Ozymandias]

The shorter the hub the closer the two bearings together, usually the shorter the lifespan.

I prefer short.

 

[RVTRKN]

Ok, I just purchased the Yukon kit (YA WU-05). I think that the threaded attaching spindle is OK on the Spyntec, now that others have confirmed that they haven't had any issues. I still don't like the fact you have to cut the bolts to fit. I decided on the Yukon kit due to any hub failure, it will default to four wheel drive. I also like the fact they give all new hardware with the kit. When I started this thread, the Spyntec site or vendor stated (somewhere I read it, but I can't find the info at the moment) that you had to put a core charge on the front DWR hub, so they could machine it for the next kit they build. With Yukon, everything is included, and after I called Yukon they gave me a $100.00 discount as well. The kit cost me $1766.40 after discount. I'm thinking about doing it myself now, but I'll have to do it in two parts, one side one day, then the other side another day. So I'll wait until I know I have a weekend to do it in, if I do it.

Now I have decide, which U-Joint will I purchase for the yoke assembly's. I want a U-Joint with grease zerks, but have been told by the installer they recommend sealed U-Joints, soooo what say everybody?

On a side note, with Dynatrac the front DRW hub is an extra cost, and they give the recommended vendor to purchase it from, they don't sell it or supply it. That is why I chose from the two other quailty brands, that and they say the kit might not fit the 07 C&C axle. Although I confirmed it will, with researching the part numbers for both, a reg 07 truck and my 07 C&C.

 

[Wayne M.]

Regarding universals, I always prefer the chance to flush fresh grease, but if the sealed are done right, they could last a very long time.

 

[RVTRKN]

There is even a OEM part number for u-joints with grease fittings, I wonder though, will there be enough room to grease them once installed?

 

[Ozymandias]

Sealed - 100%.

 

[RVTRKN]

Whats your reasoning Ozy?

I believe sealed will go a long way, but aren't greaseable bearings sealed to a certain point. When you add grease, it will just push out the seal. Also, if you launch a boat, shouldn't you add some grease to push out the water, if any penetrated when submerged, if it happens? I do launch my boat alot in the spring and fall.

 

[Ozymandias]

First, they sit all year round.
Second, the sealed units are really thight, I had some with 150K on it, still good sealed and greased.
Changed them just because of the age.

If I had failing joints they were almost all greasable ones.

In the past I used to use greasable ones and preferred them, today I use solely sealed units.
No problems, no thinking about greasing them all the time.
I changed at the time as the (European) Truck Manufacturers started to use them on all vehicles throughout the lineup.

 

[Razorhunter]

Yeah I've pretty much come to the conclusion that the weak point on greaseable is the seals themselves. Eventually that old grease has to have somewhere to go to make room for new grease. You know the rest of the story...

 

[RVTRKN]

Ok, it will be sealed then. I'm sure my OEM u-joints are still good at 75K miles. It just doesn't make sense to go that far into the axle and not change them. Even though thats the beauty of dumping the unit bearings, ease of service is the 2nd best benefit, besides free spinning hubs.

 

[RVTRKN]

Just to update all, I have decided to self perform this job. I bought a 12 Ton press, some pullers, a spanner socket (thanks AH64ID) and the Yukon kit. A issue I have, is my race and seal drivers are only big enough for the outer bearing race. I watched a video where they used the bearings to act as a spacer for driving the inner race, it seams to have done it quite well, I just don't know if it is a good idea. The only way to buy the one I need, is to buy all the others I already have, just to get the one size bigger. I bought the brake pads and u-joints from Genos with the pressureized master cylinder tool to bleed the brakes. The only real question I have now is, how much is it going to cost me to have the rotors turned. I don't think I have any issues with the rotor or brakes, it's just a good idea to do brakes when it'll be alot more work now to get the rotor out. I'll try to take and post the pictures when it's over.

BTW, I bought the sealed u-joints.

 

[Wayne M.]

Don’t cut the rotors. I wouldn’t be surprised if you couldn’t find a place to do it anyway. Get some mid range/ premium low dust pads n rotors. It’s all from China now anyway.

 

[EDankievitch]

I just had to replace the rotors on my 13 due to Chrysler's castings. I went with Duralast gold ones from Autozone…. All went well until I found the rears were 0.025" thin in spots. Just spots. I installed everything went for test ride almost went through the windshield the first time I hit the brakes. They made good with good replacements but it was a long day after having to take the rears apart twice.

 

[AH64ID]

See if there is a local big rig shop that will press the races in for you, they can press the studs in as well.

 

[RVTRKN]

For $180 for a set of new rotors, I'm kind of on the fence, O'Reilly does resurface in my area. The biggest plus for me for buying them, I'll be able to have the hubs completely assembled and prepped, before I start the conversion. I'll call O'Reilly today and find out how much and how long to resurface. My biggest challenge is to complete this project in one day, or one side one day and the other side another, After I start the teardown. I don't have the luxury of keeping my truck on jackstands for extended periods, due to HOA's.

 

[RVTRKN]

See if there is a local big rig shop that will press the races in for you, they can press the studs in as well.

I already purchased the press, so there can be other ways to press in the inner race, without using the bearings as a spacer. I have to purchase some barstock anyways, I'll see if I can find a heayy tube close to the same diameter. Whats your opinion on using the bearings as a spacer?

 

[AH64ID]

I wouldn’t use the bearings, they aren’t designed for that load.

 

[Wayne M.]

No, don’t use the bearings, but you could use the old races. Just stack them alike, so if the second one gets stuck, it can be popped out. If you freeze the new races, you might be able to use the 12 ton press.

 

[RVTRKN]

You don't think the 12 ton press isn't enough, it sure seems to me to be adaquite, of coarse I'll know soon.