bought a 6.7...wish I had'nt

[steeve]

Last year I bought my first Dodge truck; a 2008 Ram 1500 HD standard cab with 6.7 Cummins. at first it was great, now the re-gen thing is killing me. I would like to clean out the cat/dpi, so just running an empty pipe, but I live in CA and I think it might trigger a code that would keep it from passing the smog tests. Is this the case? How would the exhaust sensors know that the guts of the pipes were removed? I think the "delete" kits might not pass a visual inspection either. Is this likely? Do I really need to buy a 750$ tuner, just to keep the delete pipes from triggering a code?
Some other weird things have been happening recently too;
1) on the long trip (100 miles) up to my daughter's, the fuel mileage fluctuates from around 13 MPG in the beginning and gets better near the end at almost 25MPG. Coming home the next day it does the same thing. The end of the trip is always way better. (I do reset the MPG each way)
2) sometimes, more recently, it is very sluggish on power. Before, it pulled surprisingly hard.
3) finally, last week, I heard a "chime" from the overhead display when I started it up, and a message read; catalyst full, 80%, take to dealer, which I assume is the "Re-gen thing". I usually maintain my own vehicles...can't afford dealers.
I have not towed anything yet; I never drive over 65 MPH, usually about 62 on rare freeway trips, and otherwise only drive it about once or twice a month locally for grocery shopping, since I have owned it. I am getting ready for my first long trip, to Colorado, hauling a 1200 pound load in the bed, and am worried if I will make it there and back.
I always wanted a Dodge with a Cummins diesel for the power, fuel economy and reliability but now I'm having second thoughts about getting the 6.7 liter model. What can I do about fixing this Re-Gen problem, that won't cost a fortune without worrying if it will pass the California Smog test?

 

[Wayne M.]

Personally, I wouldn’t do a delete, and no, you can’t just gut things. There are ways of getting your truck to run right. How many miles on it? Was the EGR ever serviced? Are you getting any MILs, and what are they? Are you willing to invest in diagnostic equipment that will you perform a stationary regeneration and do other diagnostics?
This is why I have a death grip on my 5.9, and if I ever do another CTD, it’ll be a SCR model.
You need to do what all diesel mechanics have had to do in the last 10 years, and that’s to adapt.

 

[Hoefler]

Your grocery getting is your problem. You need to work it, short trips and no load will cause the DPF to fill up with out an oppurtunity to self clean. Take it out and drive it like you stole it, get it on the highway and it will go into regeneration, the 80% full will go away on its own.

 

[Wayne M.]

Your grocery getting is your problem. You need to work it, short trips and no load will cause the DPF to fill up with out an oppurtunity to self clean. Take it out and drive it like you stole it, get it on the highway and it will go into regeneration, the 80% full will go away on its own.

That’s true, but if the EGR is not right, and if you can’t get a good regen- even if you go on the highway, you need a real good and maybe two forced regens. The EGR, the VGT and the DPF- the whole system- needs to be shaking hands and happy.

 

[jgillott]

These are the threads that make my love hate relationship with my old 5.9L seem worthwhile.

 

[sag2]

As was mentioned unless everything is operating properly it's not going to be trouble-free. Especially make sure the EGR is clean and functioning. make sure the crankcase filter has been replaced if it has a lot of miles on it. The best thing you can do for it is take it on the trip with a load.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Your problem is you bought “1500 HD 6.7”

 

[steeve]

Thanks for the support guys; Cummins12V98, you say I bought a 1500 HD 6.7....I hope you meant a 2500 HD, cause that's what it is. Yes, it looks like I made a big mistake. If I wasn't in California, it would be easy to delete the problem, but we need to pass smog here. It is not my mission to work on my truck constantly...I have a whole other life. I need a truck I can turn the key and go any distance and speed that anyone else goes without problems. I had no check-engine lights, just the "catalyst full" warning on my EVIC (overhead panel). I have a friend/mechanic with diagnostic computer that says he can do a stationary re-gen. I never heard of re-gen before I started having the problems recently....That defeats the whole idea of getting a diesel for better fuel economy; the main reason I bought it.
I don't know if the EGR needs cleaning or even where it is; the truck had 174,000 miles when I bought it and I have only put on a couple thousand since, in the past year. The fuel filter is probably due; I can see it back in there, but don't look forward to changing it. I never heard of a "crankcase filter" before?. Since I bought the truck,I have only changed the engine and trans oil/fluids & filters once and a noisy Differential carrier bearing that cost me a grand. I am currently working on some front end damage from the previous owner...the main issue there is a smashed-in intercooler that should have been replaced when they did the AC cooling core, hood and grill. Now I see why....850 bucks for the cooler. I can't even find the right one for the 2500HD, which has a bigger 2-1/4" thick core. When I get this thing running again, I'm gonna sell it and go back to a pre-smog gas truck, with a carburetor and be happy when crawling up hills at 30 MPH in 2nd gear. I'm 73 and don't have to impress anybody these days.

 

[AH64ID]

steeve, 12v98 is just messing with you since you said 1500 HD in your frist post.

As far as the 6.7, I would make sure the EGR/turbo have been cleaned recently, change the fuel and CCV filters and drive it. Give it a load, tow something if you can.

A stationary de-soot wouldn't be a bad thing either... after everything is cleaned off.

Don't worry about the fuel mileage on the OH too much.. it's normal for it to start low right after a reset and then work it's way up. I generally only reset mine at each fuel up.

 

[Wayne M.]

Steve, I’m sorry, but you can blame the last 2 US Government administrations (before Trump) for what’s happened to Diesel. For me, I’ll be doing this stuff till I die, but I can understand where you’re coming from.
You indeed buy the most unhappy of all CTD’s.
Good luck.

 

[tommyturbo]

Last year I bought my first Dodge truck; a 2008 Ram 1500 HD standard cab with 6.7 Cummins. at first it was great, now the re-gen thing is killing me. I would like to clean out the cat/dpi, so just running an empty pipe, but I live in CA and I think it might trigger a code that would keep it from passing the smog tests. Is this the case? How would the exhaust sensors know that the guts of the pipes were removed? I think the "delete" kits might not pass a visual inspection either. Is this likely? Do I really need to buy a 750$ tuner, just to keep the delete pipes from triggering a code?
Some other weird things have been happening recently too;
1) on the long trip (100 miles) up to my daughter's, the fuel mileage fluctuates from around 13 MPG in the beginning and gets better near the end at almost 25MPG. Coming home the next day it does the same thing. The end of the trip is always way better. (I do reset the MPG each way)
2) sometimes, more recently, it is very sluggish on power. Before, it pulled surprisingly hard.
3) finally, last week, I heard a "chime" from the overhead display when I started it up, and a message read; catalyst full, 80%, take to dealer, which I assume is the "Re-gen thing". I usually maintain my own vehicles...can't afford dealers.
I have not towed anything yet; I never drive over 65 MPH, usually about 62 on rare freeway trips, and otherwise only drive it about once or twice a month locally for grocery shopping, since I have owned it. I am getting ready for my first long trip, to Colorado, hauling a 1200 pound load in the bed, and am worried if I will make it there and back.
I always wanted a Dodge with a Cummins diesel for the power, fuel economy and reliability but now I'm having second thoughts about getting the 6.7 liter model. What can I do about fixing this Re-Gen problem, that won't cost a fortune without worrying if it will pass the California Smog test?

STEEVE. You just got a lot of good experienced advice over your concerns. My answer is also similar to other members as well.
As far as the early 6.7's go, just the six speed auto and the exhaust brake alone are the big plusses over the 5.9's. It's the smog crap
that gets the black eye. Early on from new I was having buyers' remorse. I live in So Cal and am a grocery getter and tow a few trips a year.
I have learned quickly to keep the 80% full prompt from coming on by letting the heavy regeneration at least complete before shutting
down. Usually when I can tell when the heavy regen starts (muffled exhaust sound and louder injection clatter and the smell of
charcoal lighter fluid in the cab) then I try to keep driving or take the long way home after work until those symptoms go away.
usually about 20-25 minutes at 30 mph or higher. I know this is not the normal but it works. It wasn't until around 100,000 mi
that I got some weird things happening such as EGR codes and Turbo codes, limp modes, low power. The second 67,500 EGR valve cleaning
wasn't due yet when this happened. Learning from TDR members, I bore down on the EGR with the cleaning done myself but
the trouble persisted. I then bought the latest EGR model and that cured everything. This truck runs great. A keeper.
That's with the smog system intact and passing CA smog. Now with this smog system intact the mileage still sucks of course. On a good
day you might see 17.5 mpg highway and 10.8 in town and 11 towing. Even though the truck runs perfectly well the mileage sucks.
If you would prefer better mileage, then the next step even not with a CA truck is to install a programmer of your choice actually at some
relatively low prices. For me, I chose the Banks Automind for emissions intact with its C.A.R.B. blessing. There are other programmers that do the same thing
and better but in 2010 EFI Live and others were not on the market. The Extreme tune is my favorite and the truck handles like a 1/2 ton gasser however,
one needs an educated right foot to keep the 68RFE intact. The tow tune is what I keep in it full time for all around driving. It still handles well and is easy on the
driveline. Mileage goes up to 23 mpg highway, 14 in town and 11-12 towing. With this driving style and upgrades, the truck runs
absolutely wonderful. The only minus I still see is the 3000 mile oil change interval because of the blow by oil dilution. I don't mind because it
runs so good.
Another windy $.02.
Tommyturbo

 

[steeve]

thanks Tommy, this truck used to get up to 23-24+ mpg highway if the trip was at least 90 miles long. The longer the trip, the better the average mileage got. Around town and under 30 mile trips, it only ran around 15 to 17 MPG. Now however it is down around 13-14; that's not good enough for me to keep it. What do these after mkt programmers actually change on the engine? I don't want more boost or power, just better mileage, with reliability; no codes for passing smog.
I'm thinking I might try welding on a inch-and-a-half bypass tube around the DPF and put a stainless butterfly valve in it that I can work with a choke cable. I have built mufflers like that before for my autocross cars. Will have to look and see if there is space for it. still can't see why drilling a 1 inch hole down through the middle of the DPF wouldn't help though, assuming the DPF is in a straight line.
What EGR model did you get or should I get to replace my 2008 stocker? One more thing; There's an exhaust brake?...Where is it?

 

[Wayne M.]

Steve, please don’t try to drill through or bypass your DPF. that’s insane, and there’s a sensor that measures backpressure before and after it, and it’ll know what you did, and throw a light. It works sort of like a filter restriction switch, but much more accurate.
After you get the truck straightened out, please try and hand calculate your mileage the old fashioned way. The fuel mileage logic was always a bit wacky. Best to just let it settle into a long average.
Stick with the OEM parts when you need emission parts. I have a great Ford aftermarket EGR cooler story if you’re interested. Geno’s Garage is a good and convenient place to get certain parts like these.
There’s not an actual separate exhaust brake or retarder, it’s built into your VGT- Variable Geometry Turbocharger. The print magazine of the TDR has excellent reference on all this technology when it was coming out, if someone can remember what issues they were, it’d be good to get those.
What kind of Autocross have you done? That’s cool.

 

[RVTRKN]

How many miles are on the Truck? Has the EGR service been performed? Geno's has an awesome kit to clean out the EGR, heat exchanger, and related componets. I performed mine earlier than recommended, and it was filthy. I now will perform this service every 50K miles. These trucks do not like short trips, it was the biggest issue when the 6.7 was introduced. The Turbo's were modified for cleaning at the dealers, and if your 07.5 didn't have that performed, it would be a good idea to have the dealer perform that. The later 6.7's have the newer turbo with the cleaning port from factory.

 

[BigPapa]

When I get this thing running again, I'm gonna sell it and go back to a pre-smog gas truck, with a carburetor and be happy when crawling up hills at 30 MPH in 2nd gear. I'm 73 and don't have to impress anybody these days.

Sounds like you need a nice clean 12-valve.

 

[jgillott]

Sounds like you need a nice clean 12-valve.

Or a 24-valve 5.9 Common Rail

 

[BigPapa]

Or a 24-valve 5.9 Common Rail

and, a #4 fuel line.

 

[steeve]

How bout a 69-72 Chevy half ton with a 350 & Quadrajet, 308 gears and a turbo 400. Used to own one and don't remember any big problems.

 

[Wayne M.]

and, a #4 fuel line.

I’ve so far never touched my engine, except for 1 water pump, Fan clutch, and the rotted oil pan. Oh and the CP3 leak recall, which was the only time the truck EVER went back to a dealer. That’s pretty fantastic for 15 years, around 140,000 miles and around 5000 engine hours.
This is the most dead nuts reliable vehicle- not that I’ve ever owned, but that I’ve ever seen.

 

[BigPapa]

My ‘95 12-valve has almost 550K on it. Never had the head off or any major engine repairs, definitely none that ever left me walking. Now, on the other hand, the truck has had it’s usual problems. Original 47RH gave up at @ 200K, swapped in an NV4500. Stock clutch hub failed after 50K. Only left walking twice, clutch and an upper radiator hose(my fault, not a failure).

She gets 19-20mpg like clockwork and puts down 300hp. Quad-cab, leather interior, power seats, all comforts a C10 can’t offer, not to mention towing capabilities.