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Fuel filters

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Looks like you’ve found some “Chinglish” product details. Good stuff.
I have had to deal with parts lists and repair manuals written in Chinglish. Outright errors aside, once you learn their lingo it can be humorous. Like shocks/struts/forks may be called "cushion". Turn signals are "winkers". Too many to list, but my favorite was a spec sheet that translated body-on-frame construction to "pipe under bone".:confused:
 
It’s actually one of the best Amazon secrets. Used - Like New and being sold by the Amazon Warehouse is nothing more than a returned item with a scratch on the box... 99% of the time. I try to buy “used” whenever I can. I’ve never actually received a used item and generally save 15%, or more.

It does seem backwards for fuel filters, but no more so than actually thinking they are selling used filters soaked in diesel.


YES! I do understand that, just thought it was funny. I have bought several things "used" they were simply returned with nothing wrong.
 
Todd. How is the average owner supposed to know the difference between OEM quality and junk? They don’t have the experience or connections you do. What is your recommendation? Run OEM or roll the dice with an unknown supplier based on price?

OEM or private labeled will not stop contaminated fuel form Harming HPCR component's

Now most fuel in America is good, and better filtration will lengthen HPCR component's life.
On a scale of 0-10 on filters, I give the NON-combustion certified filters a 9.5 , I think you and a few others have installed Transfer or auxiliary system, correct if I'm wrong. The Private Label Filters a 5 and the OEM filters (Mopar) a 6.5.

The rear mounted filter is not critical its simply the 1st filter in the direct system, Yes its important but not critical, the Engine mounted filter is. Its dual designed canister is equivalent to any modern day filter.it does allow a small % of unfiltered fuel to bypass, some may find this to believe a new filter allows more unfiltered fuel to bypass. as the filter ages it gets tighter, at some point the filter gets to dirty and this process reverses so it is critical to visually inspect. That's Why I have multi filters on every Dsl I own. and all have fuel filtered prior to the OEM system.

Employee's are NOT allowed to fuel from retail Pumps directly, only from Transfer Tanks or Company Tanks. Yes if the Truck is not equip with the Transfer Tank the Bypass must be turn on when filling with truck running at retail pumps. Why leave your truck running when filling its debatable matter, but here's my take at 700RPms the CP3 returns 300ML PM fuel filter back to tank add another 60ML PM from head to tank , so about a 2 Gallons in 10 minutes, yes you could point out this come at a risk IMO its worth the risk.

Now Fuel that sits for lengthy time frames comes at some risk (Transfer tank) IMO you should install filter head that will allow Aqua-zorb or equivalent encapsulating filter in the transfer.

The more times fuel is filtered the better ,to a Point Example add filtration, don't take it away like some of the popular lift systems advertise (Add to it) keep the OEM setup, the exception would be 700HP+.

After the fuel is filtered VIA bypass 1 to 2 times it can be shut down, and the OEM system is capable of filtering from that point on.
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OK spin-ons unless NON-Certified combustion are just to risky IMO and I don't care who makes them, Canister filter are My preferred filter.

I will give the system at refineries a 10. If you ever have the time and can a tour your local refinery do it ,You will not be disappointed.
 
OK. IMO, OEM is better but the cost is not. The spread is just to wide at twice the cost.

Like many in this thread are willing to pay that spread is fine with Me and if someone wants to run the lower cost filters Its also OK by Me. if the OEM were around $65.00/$70.00 Retail for the pair and Made in the USA I would pay it. If You shop and buy 6+6 their are distributor that will sell them for that.

I like to also visually check My engine mounted or canisters style filters at 6 months 8K miles if it looks clean I put it back in and keep running it at 12 months 16K miles re-check, Etc . I will run the filters until they need replacing **** After Warranty **** Like I mentioned to Greg I have ran filters (Canister style) for 5 years before I replace them (Canister style) Did I mention canister style.... Spin-ons You make the call,( that includes the frame mounted on the 6.7C) I only use NON-certified combustion filters for spin-ons if they plug shut , Of course I replace them ,if still flowing good before 30/35K Miles, 2 Years or 4000/5000 Gallons what ever happens First I change them.

The emphasis and money and routine should be place on the engine mounted filter, if its dirty the ones before are likely to need replacing.
 
You still haven’t answered my question. You started out telling us that SOME cheap amazon filters were fine. How is the average guy supposed to know which aftermarket filter is good and which is bad.
 
You still haven’t answered my question. You started out telling us that SOME cheap amazon filters were fine. How is the average guy supposed to know which aftermarket filter is good and which is bad.

I will concede the QC is a risk, In most cases they will be fine. NO OEM or cheaper filter will not stop contamination they both will fail you get trash or water in volumes By OZs it going to cause problem how soon you catch it is what counts.

This made its way past OEM filter 5.9, The filter was laden with this material how it made its way pass the injectors unbelievable, This owner clean things up bought New Pump and injectors and as far as I know is still running, He did add Auxiliary bypass filtration to prevent this from happening again.

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You still haven’t answered my question. You started out telling us that SOME cheap amazon filters were fine. How is the average guy supposed to know which aftermarket filter is good and which is bad.

I agree - the average person has no way to tell which aftermarket filters are good. No "API" ratings like in the oil world, certification levels, etc. Nothing to go on. Therefore, the average person will simply either decide to "risk" it on an aftermarket brand filter or not and stick with OEM.

I'll never understand the mentality for pushing the envelope for intervals when it comes to filtration or oil changes or anything routine. Granted, if someone can afford to play like that to satisfy their curiosity, then more power to them. But, for me (and probably most people), I'll just stick to routine maintenance intervals and buy the OEM grade filtration. To each their own...maybe I'm just a sucker...but honestly, for a hundred bucks a year for filters, I'll be a sucker. In this situation, buying OEM is the only way to be guaranteed of what you're getting.

As far as OEM filters eliminating all contamination - who's under this impression? I assume most people understand that filters will filter to a certain micron particle...that by no means would suggest the filter eliminates all contamination. Wouldn't it be nice if the filters plainly advertised on the packaging what micron they filter to? Heck, you can go buy water filters for a home water filtration system that clearly indicate this.

Anyway, so yesterday, I decided to be a real sucker and swap out my fuel filters based on the "time" interval - not sure I'll do that again or not. The polishing filter under the hood looked pretty clean. I will say that cap for the filter sure is one pain in the neck. Just no good way to get on it. I attached a hose to the existing drain hose and ran it further down along the front differential; hose clamped it and zip tied it...might make it a bit cleaner next time around.
 
This made its way past OEM filter 5.9, The filter was laden with this material how it made its way pass the injectors unbelievable, This owner clean things up bought New Pump and injectors and as far as I know is still running, He did add Auxiliary bypass filtration to prevent this from happening again.
Why are you showing us 5.9L filtration issues......when clearly the topic at hand is 2013 & up 6.7L filtration inquiries? :)
 
Greg, I can dig up the same for 6.7. 2013+. That was the BEST picture of how bad it gets. I was hoping you would chime in, in the Picture the canister was removed for inspection along with his Aftermarket system Filters and tank.

This was covered by His insurance company.
 
API ratings can be very misleading.
The 6.7 2013 Has 2 filters (we all know this Todd) the OEM GP produces 25HG and the in Tank Pump produces 8-12PSI on the 6.7, the Ecodsl in tank produce 60-65PSI No GP.

25HG a considerable amount of Vacuum Most House hold Vacuums produce 30-35HG. So if the rear (1st) filter starts getting dirty and effect the pressure to the Point of allowing the HG side to overcome the Pressure it will start to collapse the Engine Mounted (2nd) filter along with losing most of its ability to filter.

That's why OEMs recommendations should be follow. I even recommend checking the filter ( engine mounted) at half that time frame, The correct tools can check the engine mounted filter in 5 minutes.

The ratings don't state at what HG/PSI . Some of these filters ratings of 200+GPH at 5mics at what HG/PSI? My investigation of API ratings allow this.
 
WOW that's some clean Fuel, its my first ever W/O Asphaltene traces at 15K Miles.

Asphaltenes -- are by-products of fuel as it oxidizes. Asphaltene particles are generally thought to be in the 0.5 – 2.0 micron range and are harmless to the injection system, as they are soft and deformable. As these tiny particles pass through the filter media they tend to stick to the individual fibers

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