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aftermarket lift pump gph versus CP3 gph

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2006 Tune

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My day job involves working with hydraulic fluids and filtration for a major OEM. I work with filter and fluid manufacturers frequently and get involved with a lot of troubleshooting. Engine oil, fuel, and hydraulic filters typically use the same standard for specifying the filtration capability which is documented in ISO 4406.

The ISO 4406 standard was changed in December 1999 as a result of the availability of test dust. Up to that point, ACFTD (AC Fine Test Dust) had been used for several years for filter standards. This finely ground dust ceased to be available in the early 1990s, and a new test dust standard was required for filter calibration. The old calibrated size for ACFTD was called out in ISO 4402.

ISO 4406 adopted a new standard test dust which is calibrated under ISO 11171 by NIST (National Institute of Science and Technology). When NIST calibrated the size of the dust, they found the ACFTD particles under 4 microns in ISO4402 were actually larger than stated, and particles over 14 microns were slightly smaller than stated.

Since December 1999, most filter companies rate filters using the NIST ISO 11171 dust and if someone is telling you their filter has a 3-micron rating, you should ask them what standard it is based on. It’s either marketing hype or the old standard. Filters previously rated at 3 microns based on ISO4402 are now 5.1 micron under ISO11171. See page 5 of the attached FuelFiltrationRealityCheck PDF.

There’s more to fuel (and other filters) than just micron ratings. A micron rating doesn’t mean much without stating what percentage of a certain particle size is stopped. Beta ratings must be included such as a B75 4 micron filter means 98.7% of 4 micron particles are stopped. Calculation is simply ((75-1)/75)*100 %. You can have 4 micron filter that is 50% efficient too, but B75 is the absolute rating. See details in the attached Beta rating PDF.

Too many get wrapped into micron ratings, where the 3 or 4 micron filter is king over the lowly 5 micron filter. Really? Are we going to split hairs and hang our hat on that alone? 3 microns is 0.0001181102 inch, 5 microns is 0.0001968504 inch and the difference is a whopping 0.000078740200 inch! I agree we need to be clean, but I need to be educated how this alone is significant. My injectors were replaced because of a failed solenoid at 102K, and it ran on the factory fuel filter until then.

So, what is the definition of better, or much better? What is the measure? Are we not going to include burst capability, vibration resistance, manufacturing inconsistencies which can lead to metallic process contamination as well as end cap and seam leak paths? I think overall filter quality is certainly important as I don’t want someone who is making a filter to leave a burr behind that has a good chance of doing a lot of damage. Cat, Fleetguard, Racor, Baldwin, and Donaldson all make good filters and I’ve never had a failure using them. I’ve been in filter manufacturer R&D labs observing exhaustive tests of competitive filters, there’s more to it than efficiency tests. I’m more concern about getting fooled some counterfeit junk, and they are out there.

With respect to high flows - I want as much reasonable flow potential as possible and I am not really worried about maximum filter flow capability. A system uses what is needed, the pump regulates the flow to maintain desired pressure and excess flow is returned to tank. Early common rail systems by more than one manufacturer had injector problems from heat due to insufficient cooling and cavitation was also an issue. Increased flow was a great help in some cases. Ensuring sufficient flow gives me some peace of mind that I am reducing the potential of cavitation as well as quite possibly improving my injector’s lives by keeping them just a bit cooler. The choice for me wasn’t difficult, and after doing so it was the first time in 7 years I was able to get 23 highway mpg hand calculated. Yes, the Fleece pump is not cheap, but I have no regrets.


None of the filters you are running publish specs on the criteria you mentioned, at least not when they are asked about ratings. They all 3 report under SAE J1985, which is an older, but good, single pass rating. The 1R-0750 is a 4µ B75 filter under J1985, but from my research is too old of a filter to have any testing under newer standards.

The industry has moved away from single-pass ratings in favor of multi-pass ratings. I am not sure I 100% believe in multi-pass, but the filters are better now then they ever have been. ISO 12/9/6 standards are the current standard for HPCR. NanoNet is rated at 3µ B75.

Aside from WIX, I don't of anyone who talks about their filters ratings in terms other than absolute, 98.7%.

The 1R-0750 is a great filter, just out dated. It was developed for injection systems running lower pressures than HPCR. I did run the 1R-0750 for a long time, until the NanoNet media came out. NanoNet is specifically designed for HPCR systems and has tighter tolerances than the Cat 1R-0750. Cat even has a better line than 1R-0750 for their more modern fuel systems. I'm not saying it isn't a good filter, just pointing out there are better filters for HPCR systems.

NanoNet media is why I don't feel the need to add filtration to my '18 like I did on my '05... even then on my '05 I was running NanoNet media at the end as it's simply the best media available for HPCR.

I ran the FS19732 on my 05 with the stock in-tank pump. I didn't mind it's low flow rating, but had I ever increased my flow potential, or psi, I would have found another filter to run. Granted like your setup it was my 1st filter in line so a little loss of efficiency could be made up by the next 2 filters.
 
That was supposed to be part of the upgrade, if one motor fails the other will still run just in reduced flow mode. Would likely see that in a pressure drop on a gauge.
 
Filtration is One matter stopping contaminations another, I Prefer the in tank pumps , the externals are for GPH/M only when Needed, No in-tank going to have enough Volume to make 1000HP or supply multi HPP. If you want external pump get Pump ONLY and install Your preferred filter head(s)

You are better of with Auxiliary filtration than any Direct injection filtering system, The Rams dual system is adequate for single pass filtration put some really nasty fuel in the tank its will be costly.

The other Day at X station they were servicing the Pumps, I went up to the pump to take a picture of the filter and the Guy ( Service) jump in front of the pump and blocked Picture. I'm not even going to waste bandwidth on his comment. I could tell it had China Markings and look it had been on for Years.
 
The frame mounted ones have their attractions but also enough detraction's it becomes a choice of lesser of 2 evils. Fleece has an in tank pump that claims capable of 150 GPH, that is enough flow and pressure to go a long ways down the power path.

My truck is an 04.5 and also still has the OEM fuel pump attached to the OEM filter canister under the hood. I want to add extra filtration, but have always been told that extra filters should be added after the fuel pump, and not be added before the fuel pump. I would prefer to convert to an in-tank pump, then a dual fuel filter kit, as opposed to an AirDog or Fass, but have been unable to find a kit to convert to in-tank pump. Can anyone give me a link to any suitable in-tank pump conversion kit (as opposed to just an in-tank replacement pump for trucks that already have an in-tank pump), Fleece or otherwise?
 
Easiest thing to do is retain the stock filter housing and add a GDP filter between it and the CP-3. Add the below LP and you will have plenty of filtration.

https://fleeceperformance.com/fuel-system/lift-pumps.html

Thanks for the link, but that product specifically says it is is "direct in-tank replacement", not a kit to convert to in-tank pump.

There is no room for the GDP under the hood filter. My truck has the big black engine-mounted APPS https://www.glacierdieselpower.com/i-1202-03-07-dodge-ram-5-9l-gdp-mk-2-filter-kit.html
PLUS, I have a PacBrake, so there is absolutely no room under hood to add a fuel filter.
 
Thanks for the link, but that product specifically says it is is "direct in-tank replacement", not a kit to convert to in-tank pump

Scroll down the page, the update kit for the 03-04 trucks is there. Since you have the engine mounted APPs you will have to go with either the Fleece kit with filter housing delete or build your own dual filter system if desired with filter housing delete. Not to hard to do just a lot of fiddling to get a mount built to use a couple of Fleetguard bases. The fleece kit uses a 3 um Donaldson which is quite adequate. Just about a wash to buy the Fleece kit or build your own.

The tank modules are all generally the same, it is the extended harness and additional pieces that are the difference. There is enough room by removing the OE filter housing to have a dual filter system in there.
 
I have never supported Spin-ons between Factory Canister and CP3. Most of the manufactures Have agree with Me, NONE of the direct filtration systems I know of Place spin-on filter AFTER canister Filtration, and the current Ram/Cummins is spin-on to Canister.

IMO WHY would I want to add filter in My engine compartment (Dirty UP) when you have plenty of locations BEFORE the canister.

Also those NONE heated filters , and can be Problematic in -0 temps, It really suck's when You been fishing on REDLAKE and your spin-on is gelled up and its -30
 
The real question why NOT put the filters in the engine compartment. An add-on filter after the factory canister is very valid and successful way to implement multi-pass filtration in an optimal spot, hard to argue with success on that point.

Placing the filters in the engine bay to take advantage of engine heat and protection is a very well know solution and many platforms use it. Why would sticking an extra filter underneath in the stream of road FOB and elements is good idea is baffling, and, if so done NOT considering a heated filter base is even more confusing.

Would have to check but it looks like the Fleece solution has the WIF and fuel heater in the replacement base for the Donaldson filter. For a single filter its specs are not bad, 3 um at 99% efficiency, 95% on emulsified water. It likely won't make 800 hp with that filer but for a single source basically bolt on application to upgrade the older systems.
 
I just got off the Phone with 2 customers That Installed aftermarket in Tank Pump, 1 Is experiencing HIGH rail Pressure at Idle, the Other the Pump is Dead. I have donated several Hrs of Tech support to just learn the Problems are un-related to TCDsL Parts /Upgrades. The Companies offering These So-Called upgrades offered little to NO support.

Some aftermarket products are NOT Upgrades, and all Are, no more than marketing appealing to those un-aware future problems.

Race and Competition Systems are another Discussion.

Certain Changes over-look created problems. First and foremost is diagnostics.
 
PD, Keep promoting the aftermarket like it really knows what its doing in every product that's available?, I don't sell or produce any Lift system components, I will give free instructions or Advice.
People need to be wary of those that charge for the so-called goods. My Opinion is at NO charge, and its up to the individual to apply it, or disregard.

I just increase My Bank account $971.00 in the last conversation on the Phone form someone marketing Hyped products.

Maybe some research on Products TCDsl offers would have disclosed I have NO products to offer for direct injection filtration. My Bank Account is Your Battle PD it enjoys the weekly deposits directly related to aftermarket products failures.
 
So the fuel exiting my cylinder mounted Donaldson is no cleaner than it went in?

More filtration is always better, How many of those so-called aftermarket Upgrade systems recommended removing the factory Filtration? The more you filter fuel the cleaner it gets, The problem with spin-ons are they really what they claim.

These Filters according to the Owner 3.5 Weeks old.
Airdog Filters water - Copy.jpg
 
You're on your own TC. You're the only one who thinks the way you do and yes, that includes the manufacutrers. Bosch recommends better filtering Dodge? They only say not to open up their systems is to cover their their arses. They are certainly NOT experts on fuel filtration.
You continue to push your one-off agenda. In-tank has proven everything you say to be wrong. They're reliable and frankly, your all-too convenient stories are pure BS and I dont believe one word of it.
 
I retained my stock canister and filter.
A friend maintains a fleet of Duramax's and HD drilling rigs. He's never seen water in the fuel ever here in southern California. Personally he just runs the stock canister with the Baldwin PF7977. In 97K,draining the valve on the bottom of mine has never yielded any water either. When the common rails first came out it seemed all you read about was fuel contamination. Luck of the draw.
 
You're on your own TC. You're the only one who thinks the way you do and yes, that includes the manufacutrers. Bosch recommends better filtering Dodge? They only say not to open up their systems is to cover their their arses. They are certainly NOT experts on fuel filtration.
You continue to push your one-off agenda. In-tank has proven everything you say to be wrong. They're reliable and frankly, your all-too convenient stories are pure BS and I dont believe one word of it.


No one's asking you to believe Just like I stated, Factory In tank Pumps are the most reliable pump, Millions on the road that are 10+ Plus years old.

I have NO idea were your getting I don't like In tank Pumps, and ADD filtration NOT remove it.
 
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