Replacement Turbo Actuators

[JR]

It would really be nice if they made the units here in the states. They are backordered cause the electronics part is made in China.

Tramp Did you ever get yours taken care of?

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Tramp Did you ever get yours taken care of?

I have not. Been so busy I haven’t had time. My EB works every day until the truck is run for a couple hours, then stops working.

 

[EDankievitch]

They didn’t let me in on how they solved the heat cycle issue. Just that they had extensive testing to get it right. Hey China can get things right just look how well this virus is working.... Sorry poor taste joke.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Tramp Did you ever get yours taken care of?

My actuator showed up today. I have it quarantined outside til Friday. I’ll tackle it this weekend.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

It’s pretty funny of them to use 5 point tamper proof star bits on the actuator. That puts this project off till next week as nobody around here carries those bits. I can’t get the bottom left allen bolt out either. It’s always something!!

 

[seafish]

Do you have a Harbor Freight near you?? They usually carry a set of hex shank tamper proof bits.

Like these--

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=security bit set

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Do you have a Harbor Freight near you?? They usually carry a set of hex shank tamper proof bits.

Like these--

https://www.harborfreight.com/search?q=security bit set

I called, they do not have the 5 point tamper star bits.

 

[JR]

You bought the entire actuator assembly or just the half shell?

 

[JR]

My truck did not use tamper proof torx on the actuator. They were metric allens,. And that is what the reman came with.

And I also had a time with one of the lower bolts. I ended up doing several heat/cool cycles with my soldering torch and spraying with penetrating oil hoping it would creep in to the threads. I sprayed with water after letting the oil creep to prevent a flame up on the next heat cycle. It turned out the entire bolt was seized shoulder and all. The threads weren't all that bad. Make sure to coat the entire bolts with antiseize on reassembly.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

You bought the entire actuator assembly or just the half shell?

I bought the entire assembly. Mine is bolted on with four 5 mm Allen bolts. The top two and bottom right came right out. The bottom left is not coming out. I did the same as you with an allen bit and box wrench. I’ve been soaking the bottom bolts every day for the past two weeks. I heated it up countless times this morning and it hasn’t broke free. Well, the allen head stripped out. So, I figured I’d take the two halves apart and that would give me room to get visegrips on the head of the bolt. This is where the problem comes in. Mine are not 6 point torx bolts on the cover but 5 point star bolts.

 

[JR]

I know the pain your feeling. Whoever put the actuator directly in line with the shock tower should be stoned.

There are easy out Allens, I think they are generally too long for the application but one could be sacrificed and cut to length.

Something like this.

https://www.googleadservices.com/pa...yv1Gsum3XZAcEvzVGWxWB0bUSk2zsBGhoCC7YQAvD_BwE

I know nothing about the quality of the set, just an example. You may be able to find something local.

Like i mentioned, the threads on my bolt were not seized. If you are heating any area I'd suggest the shoulder of the bolt. I wasted alot of time here. Aluminum housing, long steel bolt = bad ju ju.

 

[MtnRider]

For you guys having issues getting those bolts out, would it be easier just to pull the whole turbo and do it on the bench? I honestly haven't even looked at it, just asking the question,


,

 

[JR]

I thought I remembered snapping a picture of the offender. As you can see, the threads were good. The steel bolt was seized in the aluminum housing. You'd be best served removing the other 3 then attempt to break the seized one loose last. The actuator actually pushed out away from the turbo as the bolt turned.

BTW, that was as far as the bolt would come out. I sent it back as a core just like that, with the bolt still in it.

 

[JR]

For you guys having issues getting those bolts out, would it be easier just to pull the whole turbo and do it on the bench? I honestly haven't even looked at it, just asking the question,


,

For me personally it would be a last resort. The bolt still would have to be dealt with. The only bonus would be not being contorted in the fender well dealing with it. The down side would be being all contorted in the engine bay and fender well removing a turbo and exhaust pipe.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

JR,
I heated the aluminum section where the bolt shoulder would be. After about the 10th attempt, I tried to turn the bolt. It turned easily so I thought I got it. Nope, the head stripped out. I have the allen head easy outs, but they’re too long to fit in there. A regular hex head bolt would be sooo much better in this application.

The star bits I ordered are supposed to be here next Wednesday. If I can get the electronics half off, I think there’ll be enough room to get vise grips on the allen head bolt. If not, removing the turbo may be my next option.

While under there today, I also changed the lower radiator y pipe to an aluminum one. I also found the front axle breather hose cracked off right outside the nipple on the axle. Hopefully next week turns out better.

 

[TMyers]

I know this would suck but, what about pulling the shock and drilling an access hole through the shock tower to get a straight shot to the stripped head? Then, use an extension on a hand held hammer impact tool to back it out.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I know this would suck but, what about pulling the shock and drilling an access hole through the shock tower to get a straight shot to the stripped head? Then, use an extension on a hand held hammer impact tool to back it out.

It’s funny you posted this. I was looking it over this morning and had this same thought. I might be doing this today.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

I got the old actuator removed. I went a different route. My 4” grinder with a cutoff wheel fit perfectly in there to cut that lower bolt thru the window in the actuator. It was then easy to turn the rest of the bolt out of the turbo flange.

New actuator installed. Test drove and it works perfectly.

 

[JR]

What actuator is that Tramp?

 

[seafish]

Looks like the upgraded "half shell" design that City Diesel makes and was written up in TDR mag and that Genos sells