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Engine rebuild

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Pulled the valve cover

NV5600 Hard shift when hot

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Time for an engine rebuild and block replacement went on a short hsul yesterday almost made it and the engine developed a rod knock luckily had a friend that waa able to haul the truck and dump truck home .
 
I wonder what the quality is on those engines ? Probably can’t do it much cheaper then the 4000$ engine but if it’s junk
 
I wonder what the quality is on those engines ? Probably can’t do it much cheaper then the 4000$ engine but if it’s junk

I think if it were me I would buy used. Since quality is an issue, at least used the price is way less, so less loss, in case of poor quality. Rebuilding is fine if you have the time and downtime on the truck is of no issue.

There are a lot of used engines on E-bay, no core charge and free shipping on some, plus cheap.

This outfit has several. Link is for a 98.5 24 valve, 248k miles.

https://pulsar.ebay.com/plsr/clk/0/...OBFQS6QzkG+Gbl6b9VPjSMsXIdidA9GahxETEpP7ApO"}
 
I looked at the links and was really surprised at the costs. Roughly 10K to get rolling again? I am wondering why so much more than a gas motor. Machining is the same on a block whether gas or diesel I would think. I just had a Buick 350 completely gone through, balanced with a couple other goodies and it was 4200. Also a total rebuild on a 4 cylinder Mercruiser boat motor. With custom made pistons even. It was 3800.
What drives up the costs of a diesel? Hope you find a good solution SAndreasen. I am sure you will...
 
Just had a engine built by a local shop in Washington. I had some added things done to it. All done with the engine R&R it was 10K not counting the trans upgrade. I had a engine built by a guy in Texas for $4500 and it had used parts in it, rusted camshaft and a crank that he used scotch bright on to knock off the high spots. Need less to say it went back. The second shop in Olympia Wa is Outside machine. He does great machine work at a good price.

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I looked at the links and was really surprised at the costs. Roughly 10K to get rolling again? I am wondering why so much more than a gas motor. Machining is the same on a block whether gas or diesel I would think. I just had a Buick 350 completely gone through, balanced with a couple other goodies and it was 4200. Also a total rebuild on a 4 cylinder Mercruiser boat motor. With custom made pistons even. It was 3800.
What drives up the costs of a diesel? Hope you find a good solution SAndreasen. I am sure you will...
I will be doing the work myself minus the mechine work i think i can get out for under 5
 
Is your 53 broken? If not how many miles on it? If you have a late 53 block don't worry about it. There was two castings of the 53. One a thin wall and a thick wall. You can remove the center soft plug and measure the wall thickness. If it is over .305" it is the thick casting. I have a 53 in my 98 12v with 220k on it and I run 40lbs of boost in it all the time, no cracks. I have done a lot of research on this problem and there is a lot of threads about it. I have gone to the extent and weighed the two blocks and there is a weight difference between the early and late castings.
 
When my 53 went I do not remember Cummins asking anything about what year I had so maybe that means any block from 98.5 through 2002.
 
Does yours use the CPS behind the starter ?. That would be at least one thing to check for. I know they did away with and went to the cam sensor but I do not know what year that happened and if that changed the block or they just plugged the hole.
 
He has a busted block that he’s tried to repair. There was a long thread on it with lots of pics.

I may be wrong, but I think any ‘97 or ‘98 up 5.9 block should work. Earlier blocks had pipe thread sensors instead of straight metric boss threads. The hole for the crank sensor is still there, just has a cover over it. Same with the spot for the mechanical 12-Valve lift pump.
 
He has a busted block that he’s tried to repair. There was a long thread on it with lots of pics.

I may be wrong, but I think any ‘97 or ‘98 up 5.9 block should work. Earlier blocks had pipe thread sensors instead of straight metric boss threads. The hole for the crank sensor is still there, just has a cover over it. Same with the spot for the mechanical 12-Valve lift pump.
The block repair worked quite well but I really didn’t want to use That block for the engine rebuild
 
Is your 53 broken? If not how many miles on it? If you have a late 53 block don't worry about it. There was two castings of the 53. One a thin wall and a thick wall. You can remove the center soft plug and measure the wall thickness. If it is over .305" it is the thick casting. I have a 53 in my 98 12v with 220k on it and I run 40lbs of boost in it all the time, no cracks. I have done a lot of research on this problem and there is a lot of threads about it. I have gone to the extent and weighed the two blocks and there is a weight difference between the early and late castings.
There are 6 53 blocks cracked in less than a 50 mile radius somehow I’m not convinced the only 6 bad ones got sent to se idaho
 
Got two 53 here that run 40lbs of boost. One has over 200k on it and the other was built last year. They have the Fleece systems on them. This keeps the back two cylinders cool, which is the reason the cracks begin near the back of the block. Pulling a heavy load before the engine gets warmed up fully will stress a block also. When I went to the Cummins reman plant (TDR trip) and talked to one of the engineers about the problems with the 53 blocks. He gave me a lot of information and tips. This is where I got most of my information from.

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Got two 53 here that run 40lbs of boost. One has over 200k on it and the other was built last year. They have the Fleece systems on them. This keeps the back two cylinders cool, which is the reason the cracks begin near the back of the block. Pulling a heavy load before the engine gets warmed up fully will stress a block also. When I went to the Cummins reman plant (TDR trip) and talked to one of the engineers about the problems with the 53 blocks. He gave me a lot of information and tips. This is where I got most of my information from.
Good luck these are all over 200,000 except mine which is under 200 but I use it . Either way i wouldn’t give a plug nickle for a fifty three block and if i ever bought another truck with one it would have to be salvage price

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Time for an engine rebuild and block replacement went on a short hsul yesterday almost made it and the engine developed a rod knock luckily had a friend that waa able to haul the truck and dump truck home .

Are you sure it is a rod? Did your oil pressure drop? The belt tensioner can sound exactly like a rod knock. I would at least pull the belt and fire it up to confirm.
 
Are you sure it is a rod? Did your oil pressure drop? The belt tensioner can sound exactly like a rod knock. I would at least pull the belt and fire it up to confirm.
I will check That . Oil is full of fuel and it sounds like its coming from the bottom end could be a broken rocker arm though
 
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