Turbo Actuator issues

[pman1088]

I have been dealing with off and on gremlins and felt like it was the actuator. EB not working, working too good, sticking on, turbo lag, higher exhaust temps, time to time U010C code, random poor performance….I’m no diesel mechanic, but with about 30 years of spinning wrenches I felt like it was the actuator and not the turbo. I combed threads and videos and decided on the City Diesel Actuator and got it from Geno’s. They quoted me 7/31/21 for estimated delivery, and I figured I would be limping it for a month and a half, but to my surprise about 2 weeks after order, it arrived. Awesome!!

My question is for those with experience in this arena. I drained my system and removed the stock actuator. Hard to say how the board and inside of the gears looks because I don’t have that funky 5 point security bit needed to crack it open, but it appears to have had a coolant leak. I can find no evidence of the leak on or around the turbo, and nothing that makes me think it’s coming from the cooling lines above the actuator. My suspicion is the gasket around the cooling port on the actuator failed and it leaked some. I was never low on coolant so I feel like it crusted up a bit and stopped leaking on its own. The gasket appears very flat on the upper side of the actuator. Manual inspection of the actuator arm tells me the VGT is moving as it should, so I’m thinking I diagnosed correctly and the City Diesel actuator will save my day. I just want to be sure I’m not missing an obvious leak somewhere other then what I suspect as I don’t want to eventually ruin the new actuator with a problem that could be solved right now. Does this old actuator appear “normal” for what they look like when removed? 2016 2500 with 130k.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Since this is from yesterday, I assume you already installed the new actuator? Did you try moving the actuator arm on the turbo when the actuator was off? The arm should move freely with one finger, not a finger and thumb. If it does not move freely, you will prematurely burn up the new actuator.

 

[pman1088]

Since this is from yesterday, I assume you already installed the new actuator? Did you try moving the actuator arm on the turbo when the actuator was off? The arm should move freely with one finger, not a finger and thumb. If it does not move freely, you will prematurely burn up the new actuator.

Haven’t installed yet, got it torn down last night. Was planning on it going back together today….it passes the one finger test.

 

[seafish]

I think that your 30 years of wrenching is serving you well in an accurate diagnosis.

 

[pman1088]

Since this is from yesterday, I assume you already installed the new actuator? Did you try moving the actuator arm on the turbo when the actuator was off? The arm should move freely with one finger, not a finger and thumb. If it does not move freely, you will prematurely burn up the new actuator.

Does this seem like the movement is light enough?
https://youtube.com/shorts/xmSf9IVzduo?feature=share

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Haven’t installed yet, got it torn down last night. Was planning on it going back together today….it passes the one finger test.

Thats good to hear! I’ve removed a few actuators now and they pretty much look just like yours. Did your bottom left bolt screw right out? Mine, and one other I removed did not. I feel it was a design flaw to have half of the bolt shank exposed to allow road grime and salt to get in there. I cut the bolt off in the exposed area and the actuators came right off. Then, the rest of the bolt easily screwed out of the turbo.

 

[seafish]

^^^ sounds like a really good place to smear some anti seize or maybe even marine grease!!!

 

[pman1088]

Thats good to hear! I’ve removed a few actuators now and they pretty much look just like yours. Did your bottom left bolt screw right out? Mine, and one other I removed did not. I feel it was a design flaw to have half of the bolt shank exposed to allow road grime and salt to get in there. I cut the bolt off in the exposed area and the actuators came right off. Then, the rest of the bolt easily screwed out of the turbo.

Mine's a 2016, so the frame area is raised up around the bottom left bolt, making it a real pain to get out. I took Motor City's advise and used the supplied 5mm allen driver with a 1/4" drive ratchet wrench and worked it out. That bolt basically comes out with the actuator and has to be inserted into the actuator during install. That bolt during the removal was not easy to get out. Kinda white dry corrosion, likely from some of that coolant and time. I posted a video I uploaded to Youtube of the "ease" of the cam movement. I guess a moderator has to see it is not spam before that post will show up.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Mine's a 2016, so the frame area is raised up around the bottom left bolt, making it a real pain to get out. I took Motor City's advise and used the supplied 5mm allen driver with a 1/4" drive ratchet wrench and worked it out. That bolt basically comes out with the actuator and has to be inserted into the actuator during install. That bolt during the removal was not easy to get out. Kinda white dry corrosion, likely from some of that coolant and time. I posted a video I uploaded to Youtube of the "ease" of the cam movement. I guess a moderator has to see it is not spam before that post will show up.

My ‘14 frame is also raised. Mine was so seized the allen head stripped out.

 

[TRAMPLINEMAN]

Does this seem like the movement is light enough?
https://youtube.com/shorts/xmSf9IVzduo?feature=share

Aahhh, that’s a tough one! It’s looks like you’re putting quite a bit of effort into moving it, but it could just be the video. When I did mine, I hardly had to put pressure on it and it moved. When I did a couple on some other trucks I had to push quite a bit harder with one finger to move it. One of those new replacements burned up in two months the other is still working a year later.

 

[pman1088]

I have about 100 miles since the new actuator install. I have experienced during two drive sessions what I believe is the EB “sticking” on. It happened in stop and go city driving. It goes something like this:
Off throttle, Start to slow down, EB comes on as it should and noticeably cuts off below 1200 rpm, as it should. As the truck continues to slow under wheel brake power, an obvious different, more throatier engine sound is coming from the intake area. As the complete stop occurs, the motor is brought below 600 rpm and fights to stay running. Like when you come to a stop with a manual and forget to push in the clutch. A California stop will keep the truck going, two foot pedaling also keeps it going and any throttle input seems to remind the truck and the issue goes away and the throaty intake sound goes with it.
Prior to the actuator change, I had only experienced one EB sticking incident in 20k of ownership. And that occurrence was what felt like sluggishness, and an EB sound while driving , but the engine never attempted to quit.
I have an Edge Juice w/Attitude. I have experienced this in mode 0,1 and 2. I’ve never put the thing in three. I don’t hot rod this truck, and rarely use it when it’s not hooked to a trailer. I have had this occur while in no EB mode, Full EB and Auto EB.
My question is, is this an actuator programming issue? Did I install it with the actuator arm too far to one side and the actuator is a little confused on its location? Or is it time for a turbo?

 

[Ltngdrvr]

First thing I would try is reload the stock tuning.
Beyond that, call City Diesel and see if they can help you diagnose it.