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Midshaft Bearing

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Monroefiredog1

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Hi All,
I have a 06 CTD 2500 Crew Cab 4 Door that has a vibration at highway speeds. The tires are in not very old and seem to be in good condition. I have checked the crankshaft damper for any signs of distortion, none found. I am leaning towards either a u joint or the midshaft bearing. It is a long bed and has the two piece drive shaft. I am planning on replacing all three u joint and the midshaft bearing. I have learned from this website that the best and the proper u joints are the AAM Series 1415 QU50469 are the correct and best for this truck. I have confirmed that the drive line was made by AAM. So these are the u joint that I plan to install. My question is what brand of midshaft bearing have the other users on here used, and which not to use? I only want to change it one time. Any recommendations will be greatly appreciated. Thanks for all of your assistance.
 
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If you had the 6 speed, I'd have a nice one-piece driveshaft I could offer up... (no more center joint)

My '03 is done, but I had a 5" aluminum shaft made for it a year or 2 before I quit driving it.
 
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Some u joints are slightly wider at the bearing caps making it almost impossible to get the retaining rings and and of you do they bind. I just ground the edges of the retainers just enough. I use SPI-5006813 joints.
 
Get that aluminum driveshaft - asap. Problems solved for ever.

I'm pretty sure the shafts from newer trucks fit on the automatics; can order one from Mopar, already made. There's a thread on here somewhere about one-piece driveshafts and eliminating the center bearing and u-joint.
 
My custom built one piece aluminum driveshaft broke at one of the welds (on my old 2003). Built by a very experienced driveshaft shop who do trucks and also lots of racing driveshafts. Maybe he was having a bad day when he welded mine, dunno, but it broke when I was backing up truck with camper on it into my shop. Thank god it didn't happen going down the road. He put my old steel driveshaft back in with a new carrier bearing. My son is an engineer and also pretty experienced at welding. He told me Aluminum is a lot more difficult to weld CORRECTLY, than steel. The seam can "look OK" but not be OK. Anyway, go into it with your eyes open and ask questions before you commit to the one piece Aluminum DS. For sure there are advantages to the one piece as well.
 
My custom built one piece aluminum driveshaft broke at one of the welds (on my old 2003). Built by a very experienced driveshaft shop who do trucks and also lots of racing driveshafts. Maybe he was having a bad day when he welded mine, dunno, but it broke when I was backing up truck with camper on it into my shop. Thank god it didn't happen going down the road. He put my old steel driveshaft back in with a new carrier bearing. My son is an engineer and also pretty experienced at welding. He told me Aluminum is a lot more difficult to weld CORRECTLY, than steel. The seam can "look OK" but not be OK. Anyway, go into it with your eyes open and ask questions before you commit to the one piece Aluminum DS. For sure there are advantages to the one piece as well.

Hope it wasn't these guys. They came highly recommended and were very easy to deal with.

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Factory carrier lasted 12 years with lift
100% Rebuilt seal to flange (yokes and all) and got 18 months twice with today's junk carriers no changes in drivetrain from top shop in the area. Look at the amount (lack of) of rubber used in them. Fine for a 4 banger gas but c'mon, a CUMMINS?

2nd on Action's 1 piece with larger AAM 1485 (spicer 1480 are about .010 bigger and fit spicer parts only barring special "tricks")
Just ordered mine from them yesterday.
~$1000
 
After changing out the first carrier bearing I would lose one every 30K to 40K. Always came apart away from home. I bought an AAM carrier bearing the last time I replaeced it. It looked like a better quality part than the NAPA ones I was using. I didn't drive on it long before I ordered the Big 5". I don't even think of drivelines anymore, just drive.
 
After changing out the first carrier bearing I would lose one every 30K to 40K. Always came apart away from home. I bought an AAM carrier bearing the last time I replaeced it. It looked like a better quality part than the NAPA ones I was using. I didn't drive on it long before I ordered the Big 5". I don't even think of drivelines anymore, just drive.

04 Blackberry
Is your truck a short bed or long bed? Mine is a 4 door long bed, do they make a one piece ds that long?
 
Years back the guys would buy the auto LB alum shafts and have them shortened if I remember correctly, but I think the price of the OEM part has gone so high its more cost effective to have one built. I looked at them briefly, but mine carrier was replaced under warranty, the vib issue turned out to be the front cardan joint, I never had any issues with it over 190k miles.
 
I believe mine is just over 79" long. Yes I have a LB quad cab, 6 speed. Those guys in Texas were very good to work with.

I thought I read a few years back that there was a stock one you could get for the auto trans.
 
Well, after checking with the good folks at Drive Shaft Specialist, unfortunately, they said that mine would be too long and it would not work. They said that I should install the mid-shaft bearing from like a 03, they were made different and they lasted much longer. So I just ordered, one and we will see. That was disappointing to hear that they can't make one that long.It was like 96" and they can only make up to a 92" I think he said. I guess we will see how a 03 bearing will work. Thanks for all of your answers and input.
 
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