Coming out if lockup

[Cummins12V98]

Next week I will be towing the boat that’s when it would really act up. For sure it starts much quicker.

Scratched my head for a bit pondering a mounting location.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Have a couple hundred miles on it and also a 40 mile Boat tow under its belt and not a single unlock incident. It instantly starts once again.

Thanks again for the great help and another "Happy Ending" on the TDR.

 

[petersonj]

Thanks for the feedback. It is nice to know what works and what doesn't. It looks like you were successful with figuring out the problem.

- John

 

[Cummins12V98]

More followup!

Everything was great for a while. Then I started getting occasional slower starting. SnoKing gave me a fuel pressure gauge and I cut in a "T" and had a Machinist friend make a fitting to fit the FP gauge. Pressure would drop under acceleration so I changed the airDog filters and pressure went to normal.

The slower starting got worse so I contacted Larry B and he suggested starter brushes could be bad. So I replaced the plunger and contacts but decided to take the starter to a retired Automotive Electrical Guru in our area. He found the outer bearing rough and actually replaced both bearings and soldered the brushes along with cleaning it all up and assembling it all for $97. I was so happy I gave him $100 plus a nice Silver Salmon I had just caught a couple hours before.

SOOO I get it home and do the install then go to replace the negative terminals and noticed the wire moved on one terminal. HMMMMMMM I thought so I tightened both up and thought I bet this was my problem all along. After tightening I hit the starter and it fired off instantly as it used to.

Lesson learned ALWAYS check the basics. I know I had tightened the two bolts but the stranded wire obviously started to comply and find space between each small wire to cause it to be loose.

Anyone have a pic of the type of connector I SHOULD use?

 

[MarkEagleUSA]

More followup!

Everything was great for a while. Then I started getting occasional slower starting. SnoKing gave me a fuel pressure gauge and I cut in a "T" and had a Machinist friend make a fitting to fit the FP gauge. Pressure would drop under acceleration so I changed the airDog filters and pressure went to normal.

The slower starting got worse so I contacted Larry B and he suggested starter brushes could be bad. So I replaced the plunger and contacts but decided to take the starter to a retired Automotive Electrical Guru in our area. He found the outer bearing rough and actually replaced both bearings and soldered the brushes along with cleaning it all up and assembling it all for $97. I was so happy I gave him $100 plus a nice Silver Salmon I had just caught a couple hours before.

SOOO I get it home and do the install then go to replace the negative terminals and noticed the wire moved on one terminal. HMMMMMMM I thought so I tightened both up and thought I bet this was my problem all along. After tightening I hit the starter and it fired off instantly as it used to.

Lesson learned ALWAYS check the basics. I know I had tightened the two bolts but the stranded wire obviously started to comply and find space between each small wire to cause it to be loose.

Anyone have a pic of the type of connector I SHOULD use?


View attachment 135314

You can turn that strap on the terminal over to get more pressure on the wire.

 

[petersonj]

Personally, I would not use that type of clamp. There is no way to guarantee that each wire strand will work together to make a good electrical connection - no matter what you do.

I would use the style shown in the photo below. I would solder or crimp and solder the connection and use heat shrink for protection against the elements.

- John

 

[SAndreasen]

More followup!

Everything was great for a while. Then I started getting occasional slower starting. SnoKing gave me a fuel pressure gauge and I cut in a "T" and had a Machinist friend make a fitting to fit the FP gauge. Pressure would drop under acceleration so I changed the airDog filters and pressure went to normal.

The slower starting got worse so I contacted Larry B and he suggested starter brushes could be bad. So I replaced the plunger and contacts but decided to take the starter to a retired Automotive Electrical Guru in our area. He found the outer bearing rough and actually replaced both bearings and soldered the brushes along with cleaning it all up and assembling it all for $97. I was so happy I gave him $100 plus a nice Silver Salmon I had just caught a couple hours before.

SOOO I get it home and do the install then go to replace the negative terminals and noticed the wire moved on one terminal. HMMMMMMM I thought so I tightened both up and thought I bet this was my problem all along. After tightening I hit the starter and it fired off instantly as it used to.

Lesson learned ALWAYS check the basics. I know I had tightened the two bolts but the stranded wire obviously started to comply and find space between each small wire to cause it to be loose.

Anyone have a pic of the type of connector I SHOULD use?


View attachment 135314

I use that type of cable end all the time but I run a bolt up from the bottom then put the cable in and lay the plate across then two flat washers then a nut you can get a good tight connection . The best ones I ever have used are the ones the tractor dealer used to crimp the ends on with the hydraulic hose machine they quit doing it never figured out why they never ever failed

 

[Topzide]

That's the type of terminal that you carry with you for the just in case happens! I prefer the crimp terminal or a crimped lug to the military type terminal.
Here's a link for a crimper that won't break the bank, https://www.amazon.com/hammer-crimper/s?k=hammer+crimper and the terminal, https://www.amazon.com/s?k=military...f=nb_sb_ss_deep-retrain-0-ops-acceptance_2_13.
Corrosion will work it's way up the wire and create issues. Of course, soldering a terminal is the best connection and of course seal it up with heat shrink the has sealer in it or regular heat shrink and coat connection with hot melt glue then heat shrink. I've been using the hot melt since was shown and that works for me! That way, can buy heat shrink in all sizes and make then all seal able without the $ of heat shrink with sealer. Glad you found the issue! It's the little things that drive you crazy!

 

[Ozymandias]

I work with the hammer crimper all the time, this is a great Tool!
And small enough to carry around in the truck, important for me.

Just this week I manufactured a set of 2-0AWG wires for the new 4Kw Inverter with it.

Wire lugs please in marine grade quality with a stamp on them, not the cheap thin ones, they can't keep the tension and let go.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Great info guys, thanks!!!

 

[SAndreasen]

Great info guys, thanks!!!

 

[Cummins12V98]

^^^ That should put a little pressure on it!

 

[SAndreasen]

^^^ That should put a little pressure on it!

It makes them work pretty good

 

[Joe Mc]

Cummins12V98,

One of the battery cable ends on mine cracked about 8+ years back and I didn't wish to pay $$$ for new cables just because the ends went south. I found these https://www.genosgarage.com/product/ubt-840n/battery-cable-and-components and replaced all 4 cable ends, never had any problem other than some knucklehead tightening the clamp screw too much and cracking the internal clamp mechanism, replaced with a new end.

What I did on my cables was cut the end a slice with a cutoff wheel, twisted strands like from the factory and "tinned" the strands, packed the hole in the new cable end with dielectric grease and tightened accordingly. Check picture to see (sort of hidden by black cover) there are several holes on these ends with separate clamp set screws for all the different accessory wires that go to our stock clamp/ends. Also sold with red cover.
#ad


Just sharing what has worked, for years, for me.

BTW - nice work with taking care of the dreaded TQ converter lock/unlock. I also did Larry B's kit on my started like 15 years ago. Got to love when there's a well made, inexpensive alternative to buying a POS aftermarket starter, that "actually" works.

 

[Ozymandias]

Next time get a set of these, that is decent stuff.

Fastronix Military Spec Battery Terminal Top Post Kit NO Amazon Affliate Links Allowed.d/j2J9sEv

 

[Cummins12V98]

Joe Mc, thanks for the compliment!

You guys are giving me too many good ideas.

 

[Topzide]

TDR is such a valuable resource for all of us! It's the "I've been down that road and here's what I did". Ideas and short cuts have help me and try to share what I've been through in fixing my "toys".

 

[Cummins12V98]

Don’t make fun of the RED heat shrink but that’s what I had so ya pizz with the pecker ya got.

Took a chisel to the connectors then torched them and laid the solder to them. Found a couple old terminals cleaned them up they look good.

 

[Ozymandias]

Much better then before, good job.

 

[Cummins12V98]

Much better then before, good job.

Thanks, I will get the proper color "someday".