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Black Soot

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Cummins2014

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Just got home from our annual trip to Montana with the fifth wheel , noticed black soot in my tailpipe that is first on my 2014 3500 with 72K miles . Any insight to what is going on ? A bit concerned with the black soot . Truck ran great , put about 2500 miles on it on this trip . Around 10 MPG towing the fifth wheel . Temperature ran about 212-215 pretty much all the way home after getting out of Island Park ,Id . with temperature over 90 degrees . Saw the transmission get as high as 203 when coming thru town town where we live , and getting parked back into the driveway . Ran mostly 182-184 on the open road .
 
You could start by hooking up a scanner or scanner app on the OBD and take a look at the exhaust filter values right off the computer.

Maybe bad fuel along the way too.

I'd get a rag, and clean out the tailpipe and run the truck and see if it soots back up before getting too worried.
 
Thanks , I did that bit when I noticed it in Montana , didn't clean it much . Will do it here thoroughly ,and see how it goes . Haven't noticed any black smoke ,but really haven't been looking ,will see if I am getting any when I get on it . No soot on the fifth wheel , used to get a bit with my old 7.3 powerstroke .
 
Yeah, I'd clean it really good. Try using some brake cleaner and get it all nice and clean again, then monitor the situation.

You certainly don't want to let it go then you'll have to deal with a potentially costly fix, if it hasn't gotten that far already.

Generally speaking these trucks will complain is something is out of tolerance for emissions.
 
Thanks again . When I started reading about these diesels running so clean I paid attention to that tailpipe . It's been squeaky clean up until now . As said its running great ,but obviously not running clean , which is a first after 9 years ,and 72K miles .
 
Thanks again . When I started reading about these diesels running so clean I paid attention to that tailpipe . It's been squeaky clean up until now . As said its running great ,but obviously not running clean , which is a first after 9 years ,and 72K miles .

Oh, they do run very, very clean when in working order.

We got Cummins/Duramax/Powerstrokes that even at 150k on the clock the insides of the tailpipes are clean, no odors unless in regen, or at start up the slight hint of ammonia from the DEF.

Today's diesels burn way more efficient for the environment than gas. In fact, I've seen more filthy tailpipes from gassers than anything else, especially if they are turbocharged.
 
Any soot in the tailpipe is a sign of a cracked DPF. If you want to verify, pull the outlet pipe down and look closely at the surface of the DPF. It should be white/grey and any small black spot is the evidence of a crack. You can leave it alone since it will not set a code until they come completely apart. They generally crack from excessive heat during a regen. It also depends on the mileage and time on the DPF. The useful life is around 185k in a perfect world, but can vary a bunch depending on the circumstances they operate under. The DPF can only be damaged by outside influences, ie fueling, emission system operation etc.
 
Any soot in the tailpipe is a sign of a cracked DPF. If you want to verify, pull the outlet pipe down and look closely at the surface of the DPF. It should be white/grey and any small black spot is the evidence of a crack. You can leave it alone since it will not set a code until they come completely apart. They generally crack from excessive heat during a regen. It also depends on the mileage and time on the DPF. The useful life is around 185k in a perfect world, but can vary a bunch depending on the circumstances they operate under. The DPF can only be damaged by outside influences, ie fueling, emission system operation etc.

I'm sure the OP is going to love this news. I feel bad anytime I hear anything like this because down the line it will end up costing.
 
Any soot in the tailpipe is a sign of a cracked DPF. If you want to verify, pull the outlet pipe down and look closely at the surface of the DPF. It should be white/grey and any small black spot is the evidence of a crack. You can leave it alone since it will not set a code until they come completely apart. They generally crack from excessive heat during a regen. It also depends on the mileage and time on the DPF. The useful life is around 185k in a perfect world, but can vary a bunch depending on the circumstances they operate under. The DPF can only be damaged by outside influences, ie fueling, emission system operation etc.

^^^^ This
 
Any soot in the tailpipe is a sign of a cracked DPF. If you want to verify, pull the outlet pipe down and look closely at the surface of the DPF. It should be white/grey and any small black spot is the evidence of a crack. You can leave it alone since it will not set a code until they come completely apart. They generally crack from excessive heat during a regen. It also depends on the mileage and time on the DPF. The useful life is around 185k in a perfect world, but can vary a bunch depending on the circumstances they operate under. The DPF can only be damaged by outside influences, ie fueling, emission system operation etc.

Thanks . That sounds heart warming. :( Anytime I hear emissions its usually big $ signs . What you are saying I may be able to see something by getting under there ,and looking , or am I taking something apart to look ? Is this something that is going to shut me down eventually , if so I would just as soon get it taken care of now ?
 
Thanks . That sounds heart warming. :( Anytime I hear emissions its usually big $ signs . What you are saying I may be able to see something by getting under there ,and looking , or am I taking something apart to look ? Is this something that is going to shut me down eventually , if so I would just as soon get it taken care of now ?

You'll end up with a check engine light once it breaks apart more or comes completely apart like sag2 said. You'll need to remove the pipe right behind the DPF. However I've found that you'll need to get a mallet out depending on how stuck on it is where the clamps are. You may end up cracking it more. Up to you, but personally, I'd leave it alone, save some money, and wait for a code to pop up. Once you get the code, I'd take it in and get it replaced ASAP. That's just my opinion... use it up then deal with it.
 
You'll end up with a check engine light once it breaks apart more or comes completely apart like sag2 said. You'll need to remove the pipe right behind the DPF. However I've found that you'll need to get a mallet out depending on how stuck on it is where the clamps are. You may end up cracking it more. Up to you, but personally, I'd leave it alone, save some money, and wait for a code to pop up. Once you get the code, I'd take it in and get it replaced ASAP. That's just my opinion... use it up then deal with it.

Thanks , I’ll clean the pipe , and run it , and see what happens. Just don’t want to be sitting on the road with my fifth wheel in tow .
 
It won't heal itself once broken, if mechanically intact no soot.

By the way, police uses this to spot deleted trucks on the run. One look into the tailpipe shows the evidence.
 
You likely end up with a code for DPF low efficiency. I doubt it will go into limp mode.

I’ve done a little bit of looking on line , and it looks like when the time comes I can buy , and replace . Is this something that can be done by the average guy with a fair amount of mechanical skills ? I’ve done all my own maintenance so far on the truck , transmission, front , and rear axle fluid change etc . I would of done my turbo actuator if I would of been home instead of 700 miles away , I would of liked to have replaced with the city diesel replacement actuator, but had a dealer do it , so far it’s been okay .
 
It won't heal itself once broken, if mechanically intact no soot.

By the way, police uses this to spot deleted trucks on the run. One look into the tailpipe shows the evidence.

Passed emissions last March , have to assume it won’t pass now with the way it is ? It won’t see many miles before next March , I’m averaging around 5-6 k per year now , not as many as previous years . Not so concerned with the cost as much as wanting to get it taken care of . I guess what I’m saying is how many miles is this going to take before it actually does need to be replaced or forced to because of not passing emissions .
 
I’ve done a little bit of looking on line , and it looks like when the time comes I can buy , and replace . Is this something that can be done by the average guy with a fair amount of mechanical skills ? I’ve done all my own maintenance so far on the truck , transmission, front , and rear axle fluid change etc . I would of done my turbo actuator if I would of been home instead of 700 miles away , I would of liked to have replaced with the city diesel replacement actuator, but had a dealer do it , so far it’s been okay .

No, a dealer will need to do it to reset and reprogram the computer for the sensor offsets, DPF regen counts, etc.

Most of the cost is the DOC/DPF, labor is the cheapest part because it's like any other exhaust work (ie: replacing a muffler for example).

Passed emissions last March , have to assume it won’t pass now with the way it is ? It won’t see many miles before next March , I’m averaging around 5-6 k per year now , not as many as previous years . Not so concerned with the cost as much as wanting to get it taken care of . I guess what I’m saying is how many miles is this going to take before it actually does need to be replaced or forced to because of not passing emissions .

It can happen today if you drive the truck, or 2 years from now.

However, if it's really bothering you, and you've got the money now, it's certainly not going to harm anything replacing it early to get peace of mind. Totally up to you.
 
Personally I would leave it alone for now, or at least until you need to smog it again. There is no down side except the soot getting past it. And you can easily replace it as long as you try to remove the sensors first. Many times they pull the threads out so know that first so you have all the parts on hand. Once installed you can take it to the dealer or good independent shop to have them reset the monitors for the new DPF, or purchase Alfa OBD and do it yourself.
 
No, a dealer will need to do it to reset and reprogram the computer for the sensor offsets, DPF regen counts, etc.

Most of the cost is the DOC/DPF, labor is the cheapest part because it's like any other exhaust work (ie: replacing a muffler for example).



It can happen today if you drive the truck, or 2 years from now.

However, if it's really bothering you, and you've got the money now, it's certainly not going to harm anything replacing it early to get peace of mind. Totally up to you.

Like anyone I'm not too crazy spending 2K or so to get it fixed ,that's what it appears to be ? But not the end of the world , it's just the kids inheritance . :D It only bothers me not knowing when the hammer falls .

The big thing is going to a dealer, not real fond of doing that ,although have had pretty good luck with some out of town dealers when forced to do so , that actuator being one . Another I chose 60 miles way to do the water pump recall . That most likely will be the one to do this DPF . My local dealer ,actually the one I bought the truck from new ,I don't have a lot of confidence with , especially this last time around on the drag link replacement recall. Told the part was in ,got it to them ,called 5 hours later ,no part . Picked up the truck driving home noticed an oil change sticker in the windshield . I change my own oil , and had done so the previous week . They changed my oil when the truck was in there for a drag link replacement , plus it was about two quarts too full . That doesn't give you a whole lot of confidence in a dealer when that kind of stuff goes on . The only good thing out of the whole thing ,is I told them I wanted 3 gallons of T6, and a new Donaldson filter they threw away , which they did ,so I am set now for the next oil change .
 
Personally I would leave it alone for now, or at least until you need to smog it again. There is no down side except the soot getting past it. And you can easily replace it as long as you try to remove the sensors first. Many times they pull the threads out so know that first so you have all the parts on hand. Once installed you can take it to the dealer or good independent shop to have them reset the monitors for the new DPF, or purchase Alfa OBD and do it yourself.

Thanks , you haven't steered me wrong yet , have actually saved me a bunch on that nox sensor . :) Will need an emissions check next March . Will see how things go ,I was going to go the Alfa OBD route when that nox sensor episode was going on . Sounds like I just need to do that , and will have it for further episodes .

I would imagine I could watch a YouTube video on the replacement ? So if you mess up pulling the sensor , the sensor threads are messed up ,and I will need to replace that sensor ? Not sure what all parts I will need ?
 
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