The Third Gen ECU does a fine job of controlling the EB, as it is intended to. Pacbrake makes a clutch switch to mount on the top of the pedal so if it is depressed any at all, the EB is deactivated. I asked about this when I bought my kit, and was told to try it first. Indeed, I have found no need for it. If I shift gears S-L-O-W-L-Y and get my foot completely off the accelerator, the brake activates for a split second with a b.u.r.pppp. I usually keep a bit of pressure on the accelerator, not enough to take the engine off of idle, but enough to keep the EB from activating.
When I am not towing, driving locally, I keep the EB off, its annoying to have it on and off, and isn't needed. On the road, pulling the travel trailer, it stays on. I'm not flipping it on and off unless I'm just playing with it, so the switch doesn't need to be at my fingertips. It is, however, within easy reach, as I installed it in the lower cubby hole in the dash, on the far left side (see the pic in my thread).
Keep in mind, Pacbrake also has a line of compressors, from small to fairly large and frame mounting brackets also, as does Viair, and ARB. Pacbrake has suspension "air bags" and controls plus quite a few other products, hence the variety of compressors.
You can verify your part numbers
HERE, but the kit for '03-'04 MANUAL SHIFT, WITH the compressor, tank, etc, is C44030 and the kit WITHOUT the compressor (ie. user supplied, including your own pressure switch and operating relay) is C44031.
HERE is the installation instructions for the C44030 kit with Pacbrake supplied air system.
HERE is the installation instructions for the C44031 kit with user supplied air system.
I clipped the attachment out of the instructions for the Pacbrake supplied air system. I think the black object in the right of the pic is your pedal position sensor, which is attached with three large capscrews to the intake. The instructions cover removing the capscrews and installing the SHORT spacers if this is installed, or if not, the longer spacers. I didn't know what this was until you started this thread. MY PPS is under the LH battery box and so I did not have that bracket and capscrews, I used the long spacers. Your only concern is the add on fuel filter, which I think hangs under the intake air horn. If that is the case, it will not be in the way of the compressor installation.
Pacbrake has been thru this a few times, so they have worked out most all of the details.
Please carefully read my comments about how I got 12v ignition on power for the kit. I DO NOT like the way Pacbrake has you tapping into wires in the harness, it can cause corrosion in the wire, and I got my method of getting ignition power from reading the
BD Howler kit install instructions.
I bought male and female Aptiv formerly Delphi, Metri-Pack 180 connectors and created a short (about 4 inch) male to female 14 gauge wire connector with an extra wire coming off the positive wire to the inline fuse. This plugs into the fuel filter heater connector and then the vehicle wire connector plugs into the other end of it. The only thing on the circuit is the fuel heater and the amp draw of the Pacbrake is minimal, probably less than an amp. Do as you like, but I don't like splicing into or cutting into vehicle wiring. I prefer "elegant" removable/reversable methods. I cannot find a pic of this but if you need one, I can probably get a decent pic for you.
EDIT: is your filter kit mounted like this?
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If so, you may need to cut the spacers shorter by the thickness of the bracket, but Im not so sure that the bracket isn't going to interfere with the compressor itself.
Charles
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