Recent Content by ctd4stan

1. I used 4 straps, one attached to each inside bed cleat. And each strap length was the same. Then the bed came relatively straight up, fairly level (not dump truck style). 2. I have a SB. So, I put it at the end of the bed (tailgate removed) and extended the boom towards the "middle" for all...

Thank you all for your input. For a 1 person job and for the first time, doing this outside with no tree branch to use, I ended up using an engine hoist. I put / taped card board around the rear bumper edges (on each side) and between the cab and bed. It worked out well.

I agree that its not necessary to remove the bed, but since I just did it to install an AirDog and 'tank vent mod', I can see/access the top bolts easily. Plus that will be about 300 lbs. (short bed weight - my guess) less to deal with. :o)

Yes, I did connect the AD to the factory fuel pump connection (that's per the instructions). And I did disconnect the wires attached to the tank fuel canister, because I installed the 'tank vent mod'. I'll disconnect / re-connect the connection plugs and I need to get an OBDii scanner to clear...

P0463 Fuel Level Sensor 1 High I just installed an AirDog. Since the AD is pushing more fuel through the system than the stock lift pump, did this trigger the code? If not, any suggestions on what else would cause a P0463? After we figure out what caused the P0463, then we can figure out...

For those of you who lowered the bed, if the bed were removed would that make it easier to access the u-bolt nuts? And generally make the mod easier because everything is more accessible?

Thank you steved & cerberusiam, I definitely appreciate the input before making the change. Maybe the fitting varies because member 53 Willy's used the vent return as the AD return. Trying to manage the $$, I would be fine with changing out the stock bulk head fitting (I'll check it first)...

To avoid the possible back pressure, since I will be installing a 'tank vent mod', I will use the stock filler vent line as the return line into the tank. I just put a few fittings together to make the custom splicer that I need.

Just a possible option... Instead of adding another bulk head fitting to the fuel canister / module (or directly onto the tank) for the AD 100 / FASS 95 return line, what about installing a "T" fitting into the existing stock fuel return line instead? Looking at some of the "modified fuel...

For the stock return fuel line to the fuel tank module / canister, what is the size of that fuel line? 1/4" or 3/8" ?

re: the CARB label on the AD, I know the label is available from the makers of the AD - Pure Flow Technologies. I just received my AD and the CARB label was already in place.

For those of you who lowered the bed (as noted in klenger's website :-laf ), did you notice any changes in MPG? Also (I would guess so), but if the bed were removed would that make it easier to access the u-bolt nuts? And generally make the mod easier because everything is more accessible?

When the bed was in the process of being lifted or dropped back down (either by a couple of folks or hoist of some sort), how did you prevent scratches: (1) on the cab (maybe bumping into / denting the cab, or scratches)? (2) the tail end of the bed that sits below the rear bumper?

I believe I will install it on the inside frame rail as noted in the instructions, so that I don't have to pull any lines over the rails. I'll probably use Loctite to help prevent the bolts from loosening up from the various vibrations. From some other folks install pics, yes the bottom...

DCreed, so you were able to lift the front about 16 inches or so? I'm guessing that amount because the fuel canister is about 14" tall (on the 3rd gens).