Recent Content by DPashko

piersdiesel.com very knowledgable have 3 different stages of heads to choose from as well as a lot of other great products.

do not let off the pedal suddenly and no more turbo barks. you are stalling the compressor wheel as previously noted by GAmes/ missouri mule. you will destroy your turbo in no time! you are causing it to spin from XX000 RPM to 0 or even forcing it to reverse rotion. No turbo likes a quick relase...

had a CP3 go on me once at aprox 70,000KM. very low on power. would start ok. changed FCA no change and pressure relief no change. ran on dyno only 140hp at wheels with chip on and off. checked rail pressure 9000psi is all it would put out. Dodge changed and warrantied pump.

I have a BD trans with converter and the auxillary trans filter kit. Seems to work good. heres the manual you can build your own and has a list of filters they use. http://www.dieselperformance.com/productManual/1064017_Dodge_Transmission_Filter_Kit1.pdf

I dont remember the brand name of mine, but got it from Greggs distributers. Its a solonoid which takes a small amount of power when activated. It is 1/4" tubing and can be installed anywhere on the brakeline. you flip the swith on and step on the brake to set it. the harder you press on the...

I had a rattling problem for quite sometime, thought it was injectors, changed them out still a rattle. Finally valve seat dropped and that was the problem!

Yes the parking brake set is a total cheesy drum set up. especially if you drive in any mud at all it will fill up with mud and not work worth a damn and the cable always stretches too. I just put an electric line lock on my rear brake line problem solved! and it also works nice as an anti-theft...

had this problem years ago every 2 to 4 weeks! Do alot of driving in mud so do as slow six says but remove a small amout of the metal material where the rubber boots go through the caliper. There will be some play in the caliper now and if mud/ dirt builds up there is still enough tolerence for...

I have a BD on one truck and an ATS on another, both came with bolts and gaskets. the BD one was more expensive than the ATS. Both seem like really great products. The ATS did need porting on the turbo side. The BD could of used a bit of porting but I never bothered because the truck im running...

Now I beg to differ, that CR left me on the road several times, and everything on it is run through the ECM which is electronic, one thing is not satisfied you will be in limp mode or not starting. The 12v no electronics... . got dead batteries, short in wiring or alternator acting up, wire open...

I sure did!

Im with Mishkaya. stick with the 01! I had tons of injector problems (4 sets) hence why i have a 12V in the 03 now, and replaced my front end 4 times. I had an early 01 with drum brakes on the rear and it was an awesome truck no vp44 problems but had 3 lift pumps go the newer ones do ride a bit...

A friend of mine had a similar problem. Map sensor had some oil on it from his air filter. over oiled it a bit too much. he used some brake cleaner and cleaned the sensor off and it was fine after. worth a try to see if its oily.

hey shadrach, do you want a extrude honed stock manifold for you truck? gasket matched. I got one done yrs ago made about 75* drop on exhaust temps. PM me if you want. Im out at work till next thurs.

great manual to have! complete teardown and rebuild procedures of every part and application along with all torque specs and wear tolerences. they are about 100 bucks from cummins