Recent Content by jfmaz

No disrespect intended, but the pre LOAD is accomplished when the case spreader is removed and the case returns to its original size. Otherwise you have to beat the crap out of the carrier to get it in. Yes it is determined by the correct shims. Used bearings are a different story Also Dana 70...

I know its a issue of preference, but new bearings require preload, thus the case spreader. I have a set of setup bearings (can be removed easily) i use then press on the permanent ones once I have the final shimming figured out.

Pretty sure if you hook up your obd2 scanner and you have no engine rpm input (0 rpm) while cranking that is a sign the ckp isn't reporting, for a few possible reasons. At least thats how it works on gassers (and on gasser if you have no spark advance the cam position sensor isn't reporting -...

This only works if the front and rear track widths are the same. 2nd gen dodge srw is equal track width front and rear. Not so on alot of trucks, ie my Silverado

Never thought about doing this. Another thing gleaned from here to put in my permanent memory bank. Now if I could only remember where I put those dang keys.

Mr Ames, I know this question is probably a no brainer to you, but are you using the FSM torque method on the hub nut? Do you raise the opposite wheel about 8" to get oil from the diff center into the hub before driving after the new seal installation (I know you probably lube the seal / surface...

I think the OTs in some trucks are replaceable as they are located in the outlet of the condenser. My 98 has it in the line like you describe, but look at this screen shot from Rockauto where I used a 95 CTD as a search vehicle and put in orifice tubes. Might be able to match the part # at a...

Personally, I wouldn't "polish" the pinion to make setup easier. Bearings are press fit for a reason. Also, FYI, there is a different bearing preload spec for new vs used bearings.

Seeing what you pull with your truck, I would look for higher quality parts. The ebay seller doesn't say parts origin which probably means China. I'd use Spicer, USA Timken, Koyo or the like. Unless you have a clam shell puller you will also need set up bearings that you can slide on and off...

Try a different trans fluid?? I have no similar experience, but just a thought. Of course a full fluid change will take a chunk out of your monthly budget.

There is a procedure to test the LS, most likely a Power Lok.

In all my vehicles I just buy the Wally World batteries and figure they will go bad at 3 years and one month - if they make it that long. Group 65 sells for $100 with 3 year free replacement right now. Thats $65+ a year for the CTD. Never had a battery last more than 3-1/2 years here in the AZ...

You could just delete it like I did. Got the information from another forum how to keep the SES light off after deleting the system. Or repair it. I still have my tube around here somewhere (if I can find it) and would sell it to you, off my 98.