Recent Content by kohldad

Would also like to mention, it isn't the cost of the vehicle upfront as I can afford either the gas or diesel. What I'm worried about is the light duty use on the new emissions system of the 2013/2014 trucks.

First all, thanks for all the opinions. Does give me more to think about. I have done my calculations and played with the numbers. If you are interested in them, you can view a PDF or the actual excel spreadsheet. Yes the gas will cost more, but not much. I'm down to two vehicles, my 04...

Looking at upgrading my 04. 5 5. 9 NV5600 to a new 2013/2014 3500 truck. Have loved my current truck, but want to upgrade to an auto for numerous reasons. Other option would be to go with the 2014 6. 4 gas engine. Based on 80,000 miles over 6 years, seems like the gas/diesel is a break even...

The loose connection causing an arc would make sense. How loose would the bolt need to be before it would start arcing? Or would some hidden corrosion on the bolt be enough resistance? Obviously I cannot tell how tight it was, but know it was not wiggly loose in the battery terminal. I do know...

Was driving along the Blue Ridge Parkway in Virginia when the "Check Guages" came on. Noticed that the voltage indicator was not reading anything. After about two more miles, finally found a place I could pull over to check. Upon first inspection, thought the battery terminal where the bolt goes...

Dropped off the shaft at lunch and was able to pick it back up two hours later. They used NEAPCO u-joints, 2-0799 for the double cardon joint and 2-0795 for the front. Total out the door was only $144. :)

Thanks. Since it is already out, might as well have it rebuilt. And like mentioned, it should last another 100k which I won't have to worry about it.

If one can install the free spin hubs, one can install the one-piece bearings which reduces the above arguement to $200 each side versus the $1,500. While I would like to have 2wd lo, I just can't justify $1,100 for it. For someone that gets in a lot of water/mud/salt, the replaceable...

Trying to do some preventative maintenance on my truck. Coming up on 150k and took care of most things at 100k except the front driveshaft. Pulled the driveshaft tonight figuring the u-joints need replacing. Surprised to find they feel and look good. Also discovered there isn't a grease...

Last planned update. On the way home, the lift pump fuel pressure started declining. By the time I made it the 600 miles home, normal cruising pressure had fallen from 9psi to 4psi. Stock filter looked fine when changed. However, a breath test on the 100 micron aftermarket filter...

Made it to Nashville in a near non-stop trip of 600 miles in 10 hours hualing a 2000# truck camper and towing a 1800# car trailer. Running like a champ with no noticeable problems with power or performance. Still need to get a replacement lift pump for the spare I keep under the back...

Besides being down just a little in power, it ran fine until the last few miles. I even made two stops along the highway, once shutting it down. I didn't have any problems merging back on the interstate or restarting. Just got on the interstate, set the cruise on 64 and only had to shift once on...

Can't believe it took me so long to find my simple problem from me being so dumb. Turns out I put 30 gallons of gas in the tank that had only 10 gals of diesel. So I'm amazed I made it the 135 miles before I started having problems. In the process now of draining the gas and refilling...

Forgot to mention I already had a spare CMP and changed it out as part of the testing.

Put the info in the sig but only after I had started the post. Should show up in this post. The engine will not rev at all. It actually bogs down when you try to rev it. If it is the injectors, it will definitely be more than one.