Recent Content by sag2

Does it use any oil between oil changes? If not, leave it alone.

Not sure it actually stretches the use. If the injector is dosing at a specific rate and the NOx is not being completely converted, the system will increase the injection rate to get the NOx reduction in range.

The newer vehicles will set codes in modules from time to time. As long as there are no symptoms related to the module you can ignore. Neither of those two codes have anything to do with drivability.

A high school buddy also charged a work 1500 with R134. He purchased a gauge set at Harbor Freight that had all the adapters. He said he can't tell any difference in cooling.

If you are flushing and changing completely brand doesn't really matter. Whatever you choose, keep a spare gallon or two around for top off or if you ever need to open system before next change.

Ozy is correct. If it was a clutch or band slipping it would smoke them in a hurry. The only other place to slip besides a clutch/band is in the converter. You can make a lockup switch to lock the converter and that would confirm the problem. You might also be able to monitor the converter...

Put a washer or two between the booster and the master cylinder. If it clears up the pushrod is too long.

The current DPF's are about 99.9% effective. You should be able to wipe the inside of the tailpipe and get nothing on a clean rag. If you do it isn't operating at full efficiency.

The 3.0 has upstream (high pressure) and downstream (low Pressure) EGR. There are still conditions that require it to be pulled pre DPF.

Not sure either why you need something special to hold the OEM filter in place. Can't you use one of the existing screws and a piece of sheet metal to "clamp" the end of the filter with the OEM screw hole up to the valve body?

I'm not sure you can read the rolling PIN, but not having a truck that uses one I can't verify. There used to be a program called PIN Pull that was a pay app that could retrieve a PIN from the older vehicles.

This one?

Are you talking about the long flat filter?

The newer trucks use a rolling PIN, similar to a garage door opener. You need to get the PIN from the dealer, then you have a couple hours to access the RFH before you need another PIN.

You might want to look into these. I switched my ATV to a lithium last year and the cranking speed and staying charged over the winter is awesome. You could replace both batteries with just one of these...