Recent Content by SSSmith

bavrit, The job took me 10-12 hours over about three days. As a shade tree mechanic, I'm pretty slow on the first try. That is much longer than most have indicated. I took my time, cleaned all the parts, chased threads, and cleaned up shop mess as I went. I would extimate 6 hours or less, if...

Vacuum cap is a great idea. Thanks.

KDP Installation Notes I just finished the killer dowel pin fix on my 95. Here are some notes for the next member looking to do the job. Many thanks to the members who posted advice before me. An archive search is very helpful before you even buy the parts. Special thanks to Joe G. who...

The truck started instantly this morning after sitting all night. The loss-of-prime problem seems to be fixed with the new hoses. I took same cross section slices of the old return hoses. I could not find cracks running all the way from the outside of the old hose into the interior, ut some were...

Thanks Joe. I did that and a little more, and got it started. Double checking my previous work, I found the new hose fittings tight I dropped the new fuel filter to see if it had any fuel at all. It was full, but perhaps installed too loosely. I tightened it and pumped the primer. This...

What is the trick to recovering fuel system prime after replacing the fuel line hoses on a 95? Have I created a problem or is it operator error? I have pumped the prime button on the lift pump 200-400 times, turned the engine 90 degrees and repeated, and pumped with the bleed bolt (10mm) on...

Joe, Thanks for the tips. I did all you suggested and I have the old hoses off. I'll put the new ones on tomorrow. The key for me was to get the steel sections above the braided lines free of the hold down clips. This allowed me to pull the hoses away from the firewall for access to the...

Breed, I found in the archives a good procedure by WBusa, May 2005. Responses are good too.

I'm installing the same kit on a 95, 4X4, standard cab. My problem is that the lower clamps have the bolt heads up against and facing the firewall. How does one remove these clamps? They appear to have been assembled first to the lower steel line section then threaded up past the engine. The...

Front ball joints and u-joints are replaced on both sides of my 95 4wd. It has the DANA 60, 4500 or 4800 lb axles. Since this was my first try, here are some observations from a newbie that may make it easier for the next guy. Maybe the more experienced among you will have some additional hints...

So Moog and Performance ball joints with Zirks both need the plugs for clearance to turn the 4wd axle. The smaller straight Zirk might clear, but it would be tight, probably dangerously so. I see no way to get the grease gun nozzle on a straight fitting so close to the assembled axle anyway...

The Zirk fitting doesn't even clear the yolks now with the axle unloaded. The joints are already greased, so I'll replace the fitting with the plug now, while I have somewhat easy access. These will be a pain to lube later, but you seem to be saying that's the only way. The lube fittings...

No, I have not been a active poster. Lots of expertise on the Forum exceeds mine. I have been a subscriber to TDR since 1994 or so when I was first looking for the truck. It has been a primary source of information. I became a member of the Forum as soon as I became aware of it. The archives...

I'm replacing ball joints and universal joints on a 95, HD, 4x4. Dana 60 axles up front. Left side is nearly done. This is a first time job for me so the learning curve is steep. The forum archives gave me the courage to try it myself; that and the dealer price of $1400 to do bushings alone on...