Recent Content by timelessconstructionllc

The fitting where the hot line coming out of the Trans cconnects to the small Trans cooler on the side of the block has cracked. Can I bypass this small cooler temporarily? It's not the threaded joint, it's the welded joint on the cooler. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated

I had this same issue. It was due to the fact that I replaced the ball joints and u joints and when doing SO I FORGOT THR THE BRACKET THAT HOLDS THE WIRE FOR THE ABS SENSOR, thus causing a hole to get worn thru the insulation. Pulled hub, patched wires, now all is well. Hope this helps.

My coolant keeps leaking out of the front of the engine. It's a pretty slow leak, just a steady drip. Would this be my water pump?

I've always ordered mine online or got them at truck pro.

Already running a one piece shaft.

And while we are on the subject 75-90 or 75-140? I tow anywhere from 5k -25k. And run without a trailer probably half the time.

Front, rear or both?

Already running a one piece shaft.

Already running a one piece shaft.

I've got a slight shudder upon takeoff. Nothing when sitting still. Nothing once above 5 or 10 MPH. Any ideas?

Yes. The turbo is stock. ut I keep a close eye on my gauges .

I'm set on sw2. Torque 2. Watergate off. Timing 2. Rail pressure stock. And the EZ on 2.

Couple months ago.

Smarty claims in their paperwork that the difference from one timing level to the next can be as much as 85 hp. Idk if there's any truth to that or not.

Was running my Smarty tnt on sw2 with timing on 3. I was getting a lot of what I believe was timing rattle. Set the timing to 2 and the rattle went away but it takes a lot more pedal to get the same amount of power and acceleration now and it's even more noticeable when towing. Any suggestions...