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The shape of the arm cannot change ride quality, however high quality free moving joints such as Thuren or Carli does improve the small bump compliance.

I spent the money and went with Alphrax, the light output is fantastic, put a cermaic coating on them to help them lost longer, only been a few years so too soon to know how long they will last.

I run the Baja Boss A/T's in 37x12.5x17 D rated with lots of towing and abuse and no issues, they have been great!

I honestly didn't know Danny ,DOR, was still in business, last I heard there was a huge fraud investigation against him. Definitely Thuren.

The stock wheels are +44, -18 is going to stick out quite a bit and will be very close to rubbing the rear of the front fender, hard to say if it will clear or not.

I havent seen it on 2nd gens but has most certainly happened on 3rd gens many times, they are a good cheap investment.

I have the whole kit, pads and rotors are good but the calipers are garbage, lot of sticking issues so the inside pad wears, never had the issue with OEM calipers between 5 trucks, only the Powerstops.

I have heard mixed things about Kryptonite , with the labor involved I would stick with Carli, EMF or Dynatrack unless you want to do it twice.

I like the Bosch Icon or clear vision and a ceramic coated windshield, great combo.

Only proper way to do it is to pull the coils then use a jack to lift up the able, but if you just look at the path of the track bar and where it will hit the cover throughout the suspension travel that should be good. There is a massive amount of spring rate built up as you compress the...

Just clearance the cover and you should be fine, Its hard to get different aftermarket parts to all work together and it sounds like you caught it early, just make sure it will clear with the suspension fully compressed.

Sounds like the fuel is gelling, Power Service 911 will un gel it , I would add a good anti gel additive if you are not using winterized Diesel. If you have large metal external filters it may still freeze, I had to put a heated base on my filter to keep it from gelling when it was -15 out even...

You dont have to touch the top part of the dash to pull the cluster, I have pulled the cluster , changed bulbs and reassembled in 20 min total, sounds like you are making a far bigger project then just swapping out the bulbs. You also dont have to take the cluster apart to change bulbs live...

Pretty huge investment to get it all working and if you cant defuel the engine between shifts the Allison will be far from bulletproof. Have you looked into a well built 68RFE for a fraction of the cost? There are a number of companies out there that can build a stout 68 now.

This is the one I got https://www.fleeceperformance.com/turbochargers/cheetah-turbos/cummins/cheetahr-turbocharger-for-2004-5-2007-5-9l-cummins.html , currently running stock injectors but will support a support larger injectors. As noted earlier the G56 is a bit fragile so I wouldnt run crazy...

I have been super happy with the Fleece Cheetah turbo on my 06 , FYI.... and yes exhaust brakes are great too.

Yes most aftermarket arms are 1/2" longer for better tire clearance and why good high quality arms are always sold in sets of 4 not pairs.

Most of these types of arms use real cheap bushings that you cant get replacements for, I have thrown out many sets of cheap aftermarket arms because the bushings were shot and couldn't find replacements. You get good quality or cheap, cant really get both.

Have you looked in Randys Transmissions at all? At one point they had full rebuild kits available, always heard great things about their reputation.

The coil is the standard symbol for glow plug / grid heater and the exact same as wait to start. You are supposed to wait but as Ozzy noted they start just fine without until you get to very low temperatures. Quick funny / sad story, my old employer had a 2003 5.9 CTD and one co worker noted...