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I don't have any diagrams, but it seems logical that that connector is likely the one behind the driver's wheelwell. Especially if it has wires with those color codes, next to each other, in the 4th and 5th positions from one end or the other.

I don't have circuit diagrams readily available, but since P0970 is an electrical fault, I'd say replacing the wires as suggested might be worth a try. Or just wait until the fault / symptoms become more prevalent.

Odds are one of your filters is screwed up. Drop the pan and check the filters. See my post #3 above. Also make sure the tip of the snout of the main (flat) filter is pushed up THROUGH the seal in the pump (not just resting against it).

Someone asked me to comment on this (really long!) thread, but unfortunately I am not a transfer case expert, so my advice in this case is strictly from what limited knowledge I have. Hard to imagine why two separate T/cases would fail within 1600 miles, especially seeing they (or at least, one)...

Well, they could simply replace the ones that actually fail within the warranty period (which would not be 100%), and then leave customers holding the bag for the ones that fail after the warranty expires. So I think pro-actively replacing all of the suspect parts is more like "doing the right...

A customer satisfaction recall is meant to save you from headaches down the road. In this case (if I recall correctly), FCA got a batch of bad solenoid modules from their supplier. They have a problem that will cause a large percentage of them to eventually fail, leaving you in limp-in mode and...

A piece of black racer's tape will fix it up just fine and save you $$$! Just put one on the other mirror, too, so they'll match.

Am I the only old geezer left who prefers to simply consult a paper map (or Google Maps) before starting my trip? I have a Garmin GPS that I got for my wife, but I never use it. I find it annoying for (at least) a couple of reasons: 1. I don't like to have no clue where I'm going, hoping that...

I wouldn't worry about it if the problem doesn't recur. Sounds like others have had similar issues after a fluid and filter change. I'm guessing maybe you got some kind of low line pressure fault while the pump was priming.

Can you check it with a scan tool to see what TCM fault code(s) you're getting?

I don't have a figure on that, sorry.

The correct factory maintenance interval for the Aisin is fluid changes every 30K miles, filter changes every 60K. And by "fluid change" they do mean a pan drop (or, I should say, drain and refill), not a full "flush".

FYI, if you look at the cooler lines where they connect into the trans, one of the lines has a temperature sensor plumbed into it at or near the fitting. That is the "trans out" (to cooler) line. The other line is the return line. This will be helpful in determining (when you disconnect a line...

You probably have a Thermal Bypass Valve (TBV) in the cooler lines, between trans and cooler. That's why you didn't get any fluid flow (when cold). Look for an H-shaped block of aluminum in the middle of the cooler lines (likely near the trans). It should have four lines plugged into it (two...

OK, then it sounds like your TCC is indeed "stuck" (or at least, dragging) all the time. The fix for that is to replace the pump and converter. Or you can pull the trans, split the pump apart and check for a stuck (or worn) valve, and if the pump looks OK, then just replace the converter...

So if the drag is constant, just not momentary, then it's likely you have either a bad converter or a sticky / stuck valve in the pump. What happens when you first start it up and drop it in gear? Do you get the "push through a stop sign" right away? Or is not until your TCC has been engaged...

Your Torque Converter Clutch (TCC) is not actually "stuck on," because if it were it would stall the engine whenever you come to a stop. You are experiencing TCC drag, and that is usually due to a momentary dip in line pressure. That, in turn, is most often caused by an improperly installed (or...

I would suggest that you drop the pan and check the filters, and also replace the valve body assy (which is likely the cause of the P0871 fault).

I don't think the problem is the trans itself, but rather the controls. If the PCM was commanding the trans to downshift (and it didn't), it would blow a fault code. Since you apparently have no faults, I imagine the PCM is never commanding the downshift (or TCC unlock). Why that would be, I...

Actually the stock torque spec is 85-125 inch pounds (so roughly 7-10 ft-lbs). Does MagHytek include new fasteners with their pan? If the MagHytek pan is thicker than the stock steel pan (which I would presume is the case), you may need longer screws to ensure adequate thread engagement.