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I would be hesitant to stop doing that, especially if you haul or tow heavy. I could see where you possibly wouldn't get proper torque if the washer is trying to turn with the nut.

Looking at the second photo some more, there might be beach marks there (fatigue)...somewhat obscured by the black material covering it.

When trying to do failure analysis, you don't want to mechanically work the fracture surface. At most you would want to chemically clean it (solvent tank and soft bristle brush, brake cleaner, etc...). About all that can be seen on the first photo is the ratchet marks around the edge...

Can't tell much from that photo....rather blurry once it is enlarged.

What people need to remember is the wheel is trying to deform on the lower half every time it goes around. If you mark a spot on the wheel and think of how that behaves every rotation, it goes from loaded to unloaded. Even though you don't see deformation every rotation, that is what the...

I am still interested to see photos of the failed studs from the first time. It would also be interesting to see the 19.5 wheels you have, especially the bolt hole and center bore area. I have Rickson 19.5" wheels on my SRW 3500, they are thick! If you read the SAE wheel testing spec, you get...

Yes, they basically negate the need for air bags with my current setup. 2012 3500 SRW 4x4 with 2013 Lance 850 and a boat tongue of probably 250-300lbs.

Probably not going to find much help here if you are looking for info on delete tunes. There are people who write tunes for the H&S products...try Cummins Forum.

It is kind of funny when I think back...I remember when the 2nd gen came out they were advertising you can operate the radio with gloves on...uh umm, I wear gloves to keep stuff off of my hands...why in the world would I want to put that stuff all over my radio?

If you pump up with airbags and take it off of the lower overload, it will still have sway...ask me how I know, even with a sway bar. I would air up to level some but not take it off the lower overloads. I got some free lower Stableloads and don't even really need the bags now. Timbrens...

I am not trying to be rude, but they are pro delete over there.

You might look up PD Diesel Power on YouTube... One of his hotshot trucks has over 300k on it, completely stock.... If you still think you want to drop over $1,500 to delete, then you should probably look at Cummins Forum for that info.

In the attached photo, the red arrows indicate the crack initiation sites (multiple, all the way around it)....the blue arrows show beach marks (direction of crack growth)....the yellow arrows look like areas of final separation. The failure mode looks to be cyclical tensile with some associated...

The OPs stud pictures don't show a shear failure....it is a tensile failure!

I never said loose, I said not enough clamping force.....there is a difference... earlier in the thread there is a clear example of loose lug nuts....

Not the best angle on the "Old", but looks like some ratchet marks on part of that one....

The "Current" stud has clear signs of fatigue with multiple crack initiation sites, all the little ratchet marks around the edge, and also signs of Beach marks on the fracture surface. The remainder looks like an overload failure. The fatigue would indicate not enough clamping force/tension on...

That looks like a failure from not enough clamping force.... generally when you get past yield strength, the material gets stronger until significant necking occurs....but at that point you shouldn't be able to hold the torque value while still tightening the nut. If the studs failed from over...

Also, is it one outer aluminum wheel and an inner steel wheel? Who makes the inner wheel if it is steel? I think there are more questions to answer for this problem.

Did the vision wheels have acorn lug nuts or long barrels and washers? I am really curious how they would get the two wheels to line up if they are lug centric.