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So, I should install a new relay into the leads I clipped from the horn relay and run an output from the new relay to the switch, from another output of the new relay to the stock horns? Should it be a 5 connector switched relay? Now I'm even more confused. Can you post a drawing so I can...

Update. I went to a dismantler and picked up an airbag control module (donor truck was drilled in the driver's side, airbag did not deploy) and an airbag from a different truck. I installed the donor module in my truck, still get the airbag light. Installed the donor airbag, still get the light...

Thanks. I think what I'll do is wire the horns myself the way I want and then wire the compressor the way I want, then deal with the airbag light. Will the FSM tell me about drive cycle count?

If you can find one from under the dash, that would be great! But, wait there's more. Back to my original question, can a scanner clear the "Squib Circuit Short"? Or do I have to get another Clockspring?

Ozy, what color wire am I looking for, for the electric horn?

Ozymandias, I originally wanted them to tap into the horn circuit so that when I hit the horn button on the wheel power would either go to the factory horn or to the air horn depending on the position of the DPDT switch. Apparently they first wired it so I would either have factory horn or air...

Topzide, There is a relay for the compressor. I'm thinking they were looking for an ignition "Hot" wire and tapped the relay into that. I'm thinking it just happened to be the air bag circuit, that's why the airbag light is on. There is a lead from the right side battery with a fuse that leads...

Here's the back story. I mounted a VIAAIR compressor and 2 gallon tank along with Kleinn Air Horns. I took it to a shop that had done some electrical work previously. I wanted to install a DPDT switch so that in one position when I mash the horn button I would get the sparrow fart horns (city...

Whatever brand Geno's sells for my truck. Made is USA is engraved on it.

I just got off the phone w/Tristan at Geno's. He's sending a new one and a return label for the leaker.

I bought a new fan clutch from Geno's a few months ago.Haven't been able to get my truck in my shop until today. Going to install the fan clutch tomorrow. Anyway, I opened the box today and found silicone fluid around the seal. Is this normal? I don't remember if it was in the box hub side...

And then the danged thing caught fire.

NAPA had one with metal Connectors. No leaks. Now I have to go to Vatozone and try to get my money back.

Yes. Took one off of each heater hose connection. Put one new on each. The plastic elbows had O-Rings pre-installed. Planning on going through the install process and possibly re-installing the old one, in case the new one is flawed.

Water pump replaced last month, no leaks. Idler pulley/Alternator bracket replaced last night, now a water leak. Idler pulley/Alternator bracket has water passages, supplied with 2 plastic elbows with O-rings installed. 2 O-rings supplied for heater hose connections. Didn't mess with water pump...

Yes. Exactly! Ordering in a few minutes. Thanks.

5.9s here go out faster than they come in. Almost have to pre-order parts from them.

The spud that the breather hose connects to is broken, apparently way before I got the truck. Someone tried to repair with epoxy maybe. Broken all the way down to the body of the breather. Apparently the part number is 3932333. Anybody know where/if I can get one at a reasonable price? Thanks.

Thanks NIsaacs, that's the info I was seeking.

That's what I was thinking. Just wanted to get another opinion. Thanks. Now, on to draining the block. Any ideas?