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Appreciate the suggestions. Probably can’t go wrong with the Permatex and I can pick it up at the auto parts store. Thanks again!

Thank you!

I’ve noticed a slight coolant leak at the heater core supply hose. Initially I thought it was leaking between the barb that is threaded into the block and the hose itself, so I replaced the hose. No help. Tried a different hose clamp, still no help. After closer inspection it appears the leak is...

Yeah once you understand how it works, this is by far my favorite design. Having that lever makes things so much easier, wish they all worked that way.

Yeah, that must be the black part. I think last time I put it together after having the dash out, I didn’t fully understand how to properly lock it. Those connectors always seem to give me fits, mainly getting them apart because it seems like every one is a slightly different design and you are...

No, it is snapped into place and locked properly now. I probably didn’t get it locked after the last time I had the dash out.

Thanks! And yes, for its age and mileage (330k), it is in great shape and has been a really good truck for me. Very dependable, never left me stranded and I feel very easy to work on. The only time I can remember having it in a shop was to rebuild the NV4500 after losing 5th about 13 years ago...

Yes it definitely was a brain teaser!

So here’s a question I still have for future reference. Let’s say using the diagrams and mapping things out, you come to the conclusion that C203 for example is a common point and you want to check that out. You can see it on the diagrams, but how do you determine where C203 is physically...

I want to thank everyone, especially Bruce and John, I know you guys spent a bunch of time looking at the FSM diagrams and trying to isolate what was going on here, and posting on the thread. I really appreciate your time and help! I was really worried that I’d be pulling the dash for the 3rd...

All along I thought there was a good chance this was something simple. The problem ends up being with so many places to look, it’s like finding a needle in a haystack! I finally decided it was time to start taking things apart and just look for obvious problems like broken or chafed wires, loose...

SOLVED!!! Will be back in a few minutes with pictures

Power windows inop both sides with either control. Door locks inop both sides with either control. Yes, tried passenger door switches as well, all inop. Also have checked JB fuse 13, it is good and is receiving normal voltage.

Power mirrors - INOP Dome light - INOP Map lights - INOP with door open, works when switched individually Cargo lights - INOP Underhood light - ops normal Glove box light - ops normal Radio - comes on but no sound. Suspect amps built into each speaker unpowered.

Then the dome light for example should have a hot wire at all times, in my case both wires going to the dome light are dead.

Yeah, same from both sides. I’ve definitely tested all controls, nothing works. Overhead console is the basic one, no compass/temp. It does have the map lights however, and that also brings up an interesting point - the map lights work when turned on individually, but do not turn on with a door...

Ok, tried one more thing to try to narrow down whether this is a grounding issue or a supply issue. Dome light should be on any time a door is open, so I removed the dome light and checked for voltage, it was 0. Btw, I connected the negative lead of the multimeter to the negative battery post...

Can’t believe I still have this! Should help with which trim level…

Doesn’t have steering wheel volume or station select controls. Only cruise control (which is working).

It’s an SLT, not sure if that’s base or premium. It’s definitely above a tradesman as it does have carpet and cloth seats, plus in those days a base model probably had manual windows and no power locks. But I highly doubt it’s premium either.