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My 2008 has a DPF. I think they came out MY 2007.5. The first 6.7's. DEF, years later.

I rarely open the window. I see the bottom two corners are probably culprits. I'm going to silicone those two corners.

I got it! Open window to get slack in the cable. Pull back on plastic retainer to release end of cable to expose track. Clean track to expose drain hole. Clean hole with q-tip, squirt of water, squirt of air and repeat. Performance can be felt by the blowing of air outside on the bottom of...

I'm old (and other things I've done to my body) so my memory doesn't work like it use to. A few years ago or more I found water (a couple of inches) under my drivers side rear seat. It turned out to be clogged drain holes for the sliding rear window. We just got 12" of rain from Debby and I...

I drilled and tapped the manifold the first week I bought the truck in 2008. My biggest concern was a good hole and tap thread. I made a driii and tap guide to insure minimum risk to the tools breaking. I used a lube and vacuum during machining operations. Ran the engine before installing...

Another thing I changed. I would always turn on the exhaust brake just after start up and always keep it on. Recently, I decided to wait until I put a small load on the engine then turn on the brake. I did that because some of the sticking would occur just after start up.

Is an EMC update the same thing as a flash? I remember when the truck was young, it had a few flash updates. Is there somehow I can know what version of flash the truck has or should have?

Sharing information that might be helpful. At 58k I started to get codes related to turbo problems. In addition to the codes, I also had what I'm going to call something sticking in the turbo. I would clear the codes and it didn't take long for them to return. I continued to have sticking...

I've basically done all work myself to date on my truck. I have an airbag recall and want a front end alignment after doing a lot of front end work and new tires. They will do that. I inquired about replacing the turbo and that's when I learned about the "shelf life". If I do the turbo, I'll...

I called my local dealership asking for some service. They said they would only work on 2010 or newer models. It appears my truck has a shelf life!

I have a flat plate of MIC 6 aluminum jig plate here. It didn't look bad resting on the plate. I probably did yield it locally a small amount. I can't get a torque wrench on those nuts, so I just laid into them. Looked tight all around when tight. I'm sure they are beyond the torque spec.

"Stupid is what stupid does"! Don't forget the rotor:mad:.

I tried again. Made sure the mating surfaces of the extension were clean and smooth. Applied plenty of anti-seize. Again got to the same point. I still need to gain about 3/16" for the surfaces to mate. I'm using the 8 nuts to jack down on the extension and plenty of wacks with a 2x4 and...

I can't get the second hub extension onto the wheel hub assembly. The hub assembly is on the truck. The first one went on no problems. At first I thought I might have caused the extension to become non-flat, but after some inspection it appears ok. The extension does fit onto the original...

One bad ball joint replacement. Turned into front axle u-joints, upper and lower ball joints and wheel hub bearing assemblies. Re-assembly of the first side went well. I thought today would be easy. Getting this extension on the wheel hub didn't go well.

I thought it was going to have an easy day finishing what I started a week ago. What is the front DRW extension called between that hub bearing and rotor? I can't find it on RockAuto. It looks like I need to buy a new one. When I did the first side, this was an easy operation. Spacer side...

All, Thanks for all your advice helping me get this far. With what started as a front left wobble, turned into axle u-joints, hub bearing assembly, ball joints and what will be 6 new tires next week. I'm now waiting for the hub assemblies due here Monday and a 1/2 to 3/4 adapter to torque...

Since I already have it, and used it with good success, I use a Nickel anti-seize paste.

Yes, "while I'm in there". I overlooked that there are retainer clips and almost gave up on the axle u-joints. After stepping back and looking at it again, I picked up on the retainers, removed them and the u-joints were easy from there.

Thanks, I got the shaft out of the hub. Easiest part of the job so far. I have a HF ball joint kit. I actually bent the c-clamp on my 35+ yo set and had to go get another for this job. One of the lower ball joints earned that c-clamp. I inspected the u-joint assemblies and all seems good...