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Mechanic uses SKF parts. Says he uses same brand on commercial stuff. Far as i know hubs are factory orginial. Ive had it for 15 years and they've never been replaced. Braking is getting pull to one sidey so might as well do it all.

Thats what i was worried about. Im having a mobile mechanic do it since it will be a lot cheeper than buying tools i dont have. He is recommending i replace both sides because the hubs and rotors are one. One side is still right and tight, no play. I dont care which option costs more. I care...

Thank you. That was one of the 99 brands available. Follow up. Since the steering sucks and im sure the bushings are torched...is there a good "upgrade package"? Since the hubs and rotors are one, i might end up doing both, and bushings ect. If theres a better setup might as well do it now.

Front wheel bearing is dying. Factory part looks discontinued. Anybody make a good one? Front wheel bearing/ hub, 95, 3500, 2wd.

Same pic twice. It cant delete the second one for some reason.

This is from September. Low beams. Its hard to get a good pic with the street lights and my phone auto adjusting brightness. Short version..... I dont drive with the high beams on anymore and theyre 10 bucks more than the crappy sylvania halogens that have never lasted more than two years.

I got the 40$ amazon set. So far so good since September. They are significantly brighter, and they dont light up anyone's back window. Plug and play just like the factory bulbs. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0CW9QZVDY?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title

Jab it with a hunk of wood and see if the solenoid is stuck. The replacement solenoid kit from larry B is only about 40 bucks. If the unit is bad only get denso. I burned through 5 autozone starters. They lasted a year each. The denso is going on 7 years. Larry B's starters are upgraded...

Anyone have a recommendation for a blade for nail embedded wood? Im planning on making a bowling alley table. Reddit tells me they have large spiral nails throughout. Also used it as an excuse to get my own beam saw. The ebay fairy delivered agin.

Looks like nobody makes a 10 inch blade with a punchout anymore. The drive sprocket has a diamond fitting. A 10 1/4 wouldnt fit in the lower guard. So it will live on as the worlds sexiest and most powerful 8 1/4.

The gasket maker seems to have done the job. Also picked up a new to me sander. Polished and waxed the tables. I went a year without a project while stuff was in limbo after a move. Did one small project and the tool addiction set in.

That sounds like a winner. That part with three screws and the blue stuff around it in the first pic is not a cover. Its a housing for the drive gear and when you lift it the drive gears for the blade come with it. I can get about a 3/8 gap before it stops, but i think removing it fully would...

As a general rule, I take the price of a new POS and see how far that money goes on old stuff. I love my little 12v hilti stuff and the makitas, but a battery for either cost more than the aforementioned skilsaw, or a bench grinder, or a 4x24 belt sander or a 190lb bench vise if you look hard...

30 pounds even according to the bathroom scale. The blade looks original to the saw. Its about double the weight and cut width of a modern blade and the thing still blew through a 4x4. Certainly didnt get much use. Ive also been trolling for a beam saw just cause. I couldnt figure out how...

I troll craigslist and fix up old tools to put back into service. Recently found a 10" skill saw from the good old days. All aluminum body, weighs 30 pounds. Works great, leaks oil. I need to replace a gasket that i cant find. Anyone know where I can get a service manual or a good way to...

The short for the turns signals looks like it was caused by ancient fuses and big chunck of dirt that was kicked up into one of the rear connections.

I went with the $50 amazon special. They are much brighter and im not lighting up anyone's back window. Longevity will determine if its a good deal or not, but no more high beams on the freeway.

What bulbs are you using? The only bulbs ive found for the factory headlights are sylvania and they suuuuuck. Ive never had one last more than 2 years, and the light output is as stated, bad enough to run with the brights on.

On the advice of a mechanic ive used a few times; I got an LED kit for the rear lights. It plugs into the the top socket in place of the bulb and reuses the lower light. That and cleaning contacts fixed the problem. The LED is now responsible for the turn signals. Accoring to said mechanic...

The rear light pigtail seems to be the culprit. The bulbs are not making firm contact in the sockets, and wiggling them makes them turn on and off. OEM part number is 56021369. I cant find part numbers for an aftermarket replacement.