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I'm taking offers on a Mopar tachometer for 1992/1993 Cummins diesel pickups. Plugs in to an existing connector in the dash and mounts with two studs on the base. Matches factory gauges and lighting and light dims with dash lighting. Purchased new from a Dodge dealer by me circa 1995. I known it...

I'd recommend flushing the clutch hydraulic system. Normal brake fluid shouldn't boil at low temps like that but brake fluid is hygroscopic and attracts moisture. There could be a substantial amount of moisture in the clutch hydraulic fluid adding to that problem.

As SAndreasen said, some metal in the oil is normal. Especially in gear boxes where there is lots of gear-to-gear contact, but even in an engine. Ever seen the "paste" on the drain plug of your Cummins? The only way to use metal in the oil to determine a failure point is if there is a LOT of it...

Sorry, but I've seen plenty of 24-valves with the paint burned off the spacers.

Unless there's on the suction side of the oil pump preventing it from pumping or a downstream leak dumping pressure oil before it can get where it needs to be. There's no such thing as guaranteed oil pressure.

I'll put my money on a leaking rear seal in the transmission. That it wouldn't shift then but does now is a dead giveaway. Why? It's a hydraulic clutch. I had pretty much the exact same situation with my '97 Chevy 2500 with an NV4500. A hot transmission = hot clutch fluid = no shifting. The...

Does your medium-duty engine in your light-duty pickup get this hot? If not, you're overly obsessed with EGTs in the first place.

I've seen pictures of Cat 3406E engines running on the dyno with the entire manifold and turbo turbine housing glowing orange/yellow. What does that tell YOU about where to measure EGT? It tells me that measuring it in the manifold ahead of the turbo is pointless. The fact that this was...

You're welcome and I hope you find good oil pressure there. A known good mechanical oil pressure gauge is the first tool to reach for when diagnosing oil pressure issues. I suspect you just have a gauge circuit problem. More than a few few seconds of true zero oil pressure with a warmed up...

I'll get right on that suggestion. Although 205 views suggest that plenty of people have found it. And yes, I'm aware that they're Navistar engines prior to the 6.7. I've been around a few of them going back to the 6.9 and 7.3. I've even had the "pleasure" of working on a few. So yes, I knew...

I'll stick with where the OEMs put their EGT sensors. I tend to think they know what they're doing. Can you provide EGT "specs"?

You must have figured out I put you on my ignore list. You're done trying to "help"? I haven't seen you post ONE THING right YET. It's pretty funny that after I've told you REPEATEDLY to just leave me alone and despite your inability to do so and despite me TELLING you that I'm not going to put...

It looks like a mixed bag of things going on there. The location of the pyro stinger makes me wonder more than anything else I see. I always get a kick out of how so many guys are obsessed with EGTs yet not obsessed with getting a true EGT reading.

It's hard telling with that one. Just looking at where someone put the pyro stinger you can tell a real "expert" has worked on it in the past.

I wonder why my cousin's manifold bolts have never fallen out of his 24-valve after 300,000+ miles of hauling fence materials, firewood, skid-steers, tree shears, etc. Must not be enough heat cycles yet.

Yes, you can read oil pressure there and it is 1/8 NPT. If I remember correctly, that is oil pressure "downstream" of the oil filter - i.e. after the oil has passed through the filter media. I'm not sure what "spec" is but I've seen up to 100 psi there on a 1st-gen 12V with warm oil at high...

Someone "knowledgeable" told me that a new factory reflash for my PCM would turn my oil pressure gauge into an "idiot light". The funny thing is that the reflash seems to have done just the opposite. There is a lot more gauge movement between high and low idle speed oil pressure now than there...

Oddly enough that engine that has supposedly been way too hot doesn't even have all the exhaust stud spacers rusted. It doesn't look like all the paint on the cylinder head is burned off adjacent to the exhaust ports.

The more new parts the better, in my opinion. There's nothing wrong with a new turbo on a used engine or truck any more than there's anything wrong with new tires. If the old one is worn out or failed, you replace it. How long a turbo lasts depends on a lot of factors. The most important being...

What part of "there's none on ebay" did you NOT understand? I've looked. Repeatedly. How about you just worry about how you spend your money and leave me alone to spend mine as I please? Don't start a bunch of ***** with me again. I'm not going to put up with it. That's your only warning. I get...